Lupul cel Rău (The Bad Wolf) 5B
5,00/5 (2 votes)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (43)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Equipment
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Lilith la data de 08.03.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Quickdraws: 
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Topo traseu Lupul cel Rău, Postăvarul 
Orientation: S
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 180 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsDihedralRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu, Alexandru Pătraşcu
Date: 1975
First free solo ascent: Titus Gonţea
Date: 13.04.2012


Route description

One of the most beautiful routes in Peretele Animalelor, mostly on clean rock and well protected. It follows a series of cracks and dihedrals. A certain love for traverses is advised.

1st pitch
: the route begins on the left of the small ridge where it's name lies written, on a small chimney. After two in place protections it traverses a little to the right following the ridge. On the first 15 - 20m the rock is dirty and covered by vegetation, after which it leaves behind the grass and becomes more compact. After around 20m o meet a vertical section directing us to the right, around 3m, towards an intermediate belay. We skip it and continue slightly left, coming back to the original line for about 10 meters. Here you will find another intermediate belay that you can skip with 60m double ropes. Continue on a dihedral and at its end traverse a little to the left to find a belay with one bold and two pegs.

2nd pitch: continue up around 20m on an easy rock face until you reach a grassy section with an intermediate belay. Continue vertical on a crack leading a little to the right. At the end of it you will meet a small overhand, easy to pass. After it you will find the belay, on two bolts.

3rd pitch: traverse around 2m to the left in order to catch a wide dihedral split by a crack. Folow it for about 10-12m until an intermediate belay. Continue on the large dihedral above. You will find holds on the right side of it. Continue until you reach a rock platform under an arch. Here you will find another intermediate belay. Traverse left another 5-6m until your belay, with one bolt and 3 pegs. Lupul cel rău intersects in this traverse another route, Diedrul Corbilor, which continues on the dihedral that cuts the arch above.

4th pitch: traverse left until you reach a small closed dihedral on which your route continues. After you exit it traverse diagonally right until close to arch. Catch here the dihedral and follow it for about 3-4m, then traverse around 13m to the left. Afterwards continue up for another 8m, until you reach the belay (1 bolt and 3 pegs).
Before climbing the last 8m to the belay you can observe to the left, at about 7m, a large peg. Don't go there, it is from the route Îngerul Căzut.

5th pitch: continue on the crack above the belay. Here you will find the crux, on the small overhang at the end of the crack: a small section of 7- difficulty and very well protected. After over passing this section the route decreases in difficulty and exits a small chimney into the forrest. Belay at a large tree.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2012/09/lupul-cel-rau-5b-6-a0-7_6.html
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2012/05/14/lupul-cel-rau-poiana-inului/


Access and retreat

Access route: Start the approach from Poiana Inului, the last grassy clearing found after Cheile Rășnoavei [Rășnoavei gorge], before the barrier that forbids further access by car into Postăvaru Massif. Cross the vista towards the forest, where an obvious valley/couloir descends from the walls to the road. Continue on that valley, where a zig-zag unmarked trail will lead you close to the walls. Before the path exits the forest on a rocky terrain, your trail leads to the right, at the base of the wall. You will soon find the entrance to Lupul cel rău, written in black letters.
Access duration: 30 min
Retreat route: Enter the forest and catch a unmarked trail that will descend you in zig-zag through the forrest, oriented to the right, on steep terrain (at the beginning). The trail will leave you at the right corner of the wall. Once there, turn right and continue at the base of the wall towards the entrance to Lupul cel rău and the valley you used to come up.
Retreat duration: 45 min

Topo

Topo

Schiță traseu Lupul cel Rău, Postăvarul_nou. Sursă: via-aventura.blogspot.ro

Pictures


Topo traseu Lupul cel Rău, Postăvarul

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries


  • 01.05.2017 Dan Borcea, Codruta Muntean
  • 02.04.2017 Vali Oprea, Alex Baran

Topo traseu Lupul cel Rău, Postăvarul

User who climbed the route


Cristian Popescu - 13.10.2018, Vara
Razvan Hotea - 13.10.2018, Vara
Razvan Hotea - 07.10.2018, Vara
Razvan Hotea - 06.10.2018, Vara
Constantinescu Anita - 18.05.2018, Vara
Vasile Dumitrică - 28.04.2018, Vara
Andrei Holban - 28.04.2018, Vara
Ad Rian - 28.04.2018, Vara
Andrei Holban - 09.04.2018, Vara
Adrian Mihai - 15.10.2017, Vara
Radu Ciofringeanu - 14.10.2017, Vara
Iulia Darie - 14.10.2017, Vara
Andrei Holban - 24.09.2017
Rosmalin Alin - 11.09.2017, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 09.06.2017
Paul Cheteleş - 21.05.2017, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


Iulia Darie

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 4,55521460624477E+16°0.0' E 2,55443602546616E+15°0.0'    
Access route: Start the approach from Poiana Inului, the last grassy clearing found after Cheile Rășnoavei [Rășnoavei gorge], before the barrier that forbids further access by car into Postăvaru Massif. Cross the vista towards the forest, where an obvious valley/couloir descends from the walls to the road. Continue on that valley, where a zig-zag unmarked trail will lead you close to the walls. Before the path exits the forest on a rocky terrain, your trail leads to the right, at the base of the wall. You will soon find the entrance to Lupul cel rău, written in black letters.
Retreat route: Enter the forest and catch a unmarked trail that will descend you in zig-zag through the forrest, oriented to the right, on steep terrain (at the beginning). The trail will leave you at the right corner of the wall. Once there, turn right and continue at the base of the wall towards the entrance to Lupul cel rău and the valley you used to come up.

Equipment


Rope: 60m double ropes
Quickdraws: 
Cams and nuts: a set of nuts
Topo traseu Lupul cel Rău, Postăvarul

Comments