Diedrul Corbilor 5A, 7 (6+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 24.05.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 7
Quickdraws: Eighteen
Type: Classic route

 Diedrul Corbilor 
Orientation: S
Length: 4 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 170 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsDihedralLoose rocksRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Chifor, Răzvan Budac, Diana Chirciu


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route has many pitons, a few, however, (length 2) of disbelief. Pools usually have 3 pitons (with the exception of the first 2 and the last one, to the tree). To avoid to enter it in the route after the rains, the route having quite a lot of brâni?e with the ground, after being forced to climb passages at adhesion.

The route climbs between the Edge of the Bunny and the Edge of the Wolf the Bad guy. It aims 2 diedre located halfway up the wall (which is in shadow in the early hours of the morning). As a point of reference for the entry in the route (it has no name written on the base) is a big tree, grown right next to the wall and a first piton cone, 3-4m of departure.

LC 1 (55 m, grade 5): the Length is carried out on a face, slightly crumbly and with little vegetation. After approx 35-40m we arrive at a belay station intermediate which we can skip. From here we climb upward left over some rapids of rock and earth until in the pool. Length of 55m. Before crossing from the left end in the right of the first dihedral of the big Bad Wolf. The temptation is to make the right to the belay station bright on the expansion bolts, but the belay station of the right is to the left.

Note: This length (from the belay station of the intermediate until at the end of it), is shared with that of another trail started in the area (still unfinished). The length has been opened by the Sort and Nu?a Enache. Attention!, it's length is very friable in that they can fly large boulders (5-10 kg). On a crack in the top left of all is I see some pitons, these representing the second length of the route Fallen Angel.

LC 2 (35 m, grade 6+, A0 (7+)): Go up on a crack-dihedral. This is over and leave the place a face compact of 2-3m. After the pass we left some pitons very weak bound with a rope. They might not hold up in a fall. Still slightly left desca?aram 1/2m, and then to get a crack arched the right. In principle, I have travelled the face of the almost vertical and without plugs obvious what separates us from the dihedron of the above. On the front are found the alveoli, but the steps are not trivial, being listed somewhere in degree 7+. At the end of the face it turns left to the dihedral, where they catch the wing clear of it. It continues on the dihedron which gave the name of the route, a dihedral sometimes a little on the back, a little bit physical. After 6-7m across the left (piton hidden behind a muchiu?a from the left - we see him only when we're in the right) and continue on to the next dihedral on the left. Regroup at 2-3m after completion of the diedrului at 4 pitons consolidated with the rope. We can continue up, up to a belay station interim, however, the friction of the string will be large.
LC 3 (30 m, grade 6): go Up the two-flat above the pool, with hands good and often. After 6-7 km dihedron splits into two, we follow the one on the right. We get to the first platform with 2 cams, but not regroup. Continue on the right, over a little tummy, and then another 3-4m on a fisurica until belay station with 3 pitons.

LC 4 (45 m, grade 6): go Up another 3-4m on the dihedral up to a wider one, that of stone where intersect the route of the big Bad Wolf (which it crosses to the left). Continue on a crack offwidth easy time on the back, who then becomes a chimney largu?. After overcoming the passage of the land becomes easy and uninsured. Follows a kind of brâna/valley slightly, grassy and the uninsured, crossed out by 2 belly uninsured (you can place nuts or frienduri very solid - assured with long curls, otherwise you might move them from placement initially to the passage of the passages). Regroup at a big tree after 30-35m from the exit of the chimney. The trail ends on the ridge of the Wall of Animals.
Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2011/09/26/diedrul-corbilor/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Access route: In Poiana Flax, the last glade of the Keys Râ?noavelor before the barrier, climbs up to the left through the forest on a valley obvious until towards the end of it. Before we're out of the woods on the scree, the trail bends right at the base of the Wall to the Animals. Our route is among the top of the wall, between two ridges whose beginning is more prominent, advanced in the forest.
In Poiana Flax, the last glade of the Keys Râ?noavelor before the barrier, climbs up to the left through the forest on a valley obvious until towards the end of it. Before we're out of the woods on the scree, the trail bends right at the base of the Wall to the Animals. Our route is among the top of the wall, between two ridges whose beginning is more prominent, advanced in the forest

You can read the whole description of the route the Edge of the Bunny 5A here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/Ruta.aspx?ID_Ruta=460
Retreat route: From i?irea from the route to catch a trail that descends in a zig-zag to the right, through the forest from behind the Wall Animal on the field quite tilted. The trail leads up to the right-hand corner of the wall, where we turn right towards the base of the Wall to the Animals and back to the valley to Poiana Flax.

Topo

Topo

Diedrul Corbilor

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Diedrul Corbilor

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Diedrul Corbilor

Users who climbed the route


Lucian Oprea - 03.11.2019
- 03.11.2019
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

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Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Access route: In Poiana Flax, the last glade of the Keys Râ?noavelor before the barrier, climbs up to the left through the forest on a valley obvious until towards the end of it. Before we're out of the woods on the scree, the trail bends right at the base of the Wall to the Animals. Our route is among the top of the wall, between two ridges whose beginning is more prominent, advanced in the forest.
In Poiana Flax, the last glade of the Keys Râ?noavelor before the barrier, climbs up to the left through the forest on a valley obvious until towards the end of it. Before we're out of the woods on the scree, the trail bends right at the base of the Wall to the Animals. Our route is among the top of the wall, between two ridges whose beginning is more prominent, advanced in the forest

You can read the whole description of the route the Edge of the Bunny 5A here: http://www.roclimbs.ro/Ruta.aspx?ID_Ruta=460
Retreat route: From i?irea from the route to catch a trail that descends in a zig-zag to the right, through the forest from behind the Wall Animal on the field quite tilted. The trail leads up to the right-hand corner of the wall, where we turn right towards the base of the Wall to the Animals and back to the valley to Poiana Flax.

Equipment


Rope: 60 m
Quickdraws: Eighteen
Cams and nuts: Eighteen
Additional equipment: Eighteen
Diedrul Corbilor

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