Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Muchia Iepuraşului (The Edge Of The Rabbit) 5A, 6+ (6, A0)
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  • Diaries/Climbs (52)
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 08.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Cristi Popescu 
Orientation: S
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 180 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsRidgeChimneyGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu, Nicolae Dini
Repaired date: 22.10.2017


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The 22.10.2017 in the way they were mounted expansion bolts, thus: - one at the pool, 2 expansion bolts on the first pitch (to chimney pot) and about 5 expansion bolts on the chimney hits in the last stretch.

LC1 - 60. It starts out on one side, down in between the two vents is very noticeable in the the Clearing In. The first anchor,painted red, is about 5 feet tall. Next, a few feet from the grass, and after that there is a hospital. Here it is crossing the ascendant, the left (LOOK on the right there are a few hands that you don't have to follow them) to the 3 hands before we get to the line of fire between the Edge of the Rabbit to the Deer. There is also a hospital. The original route goes over the chimney, on the left-hand wall, where there is a reticulated python, and the large outlets. Get up to 3 feet and then cross over the chimney top is exposed, and the grass back up in the right hand, and a spoon. Right to meet the wall on the right-hand to 2 hands and one beat to the left, in the middle of the fire.
There is also the possibility that the hospital should be escalated all the way up about 4 feet up from the 2 hands on the ground slightly hard and brittle, but is still off of the ground.
These 2 hands it may relate to the intermediary, especially if you use your mobile. The next department is the 3 meters high, but the terrain is relatively easy, with the large plugs. All of the rings all the way to the pool are marked with red paint. Are still 2nd hands struck out in parallel, and then you can climb up to the right of the line of the ridge. From here, it's 10 meters to the pool, the extent of this portion does not move for 5+ and over, we find a pair of hands, and then what? It brings together about 15 m on a low platform and comfortable, the 3 hands and some spit. In length it measures 60 feet.
Or, it may relate to the chimney, but the match eventually regroup with the assurance of the furniture.

LC2 - 30 km. The pool gets a little shot (1 cam) to catch the edge of the ridge, following it, practicing a little out of shape pretty divided doses is sufficient. There is a second pin. Following the 15 km of the ground brittle, and grassy make with 2 pairs of hands (minted in parallel), and regrouped on the crest of a spit, and a ball python.

LC3 - 35 km. About 10 feet away from the pool, on the right hand side of the ridge, it is observed that the plate a little bit down, in which the upper part is nailed to 2 hands. If you look closely at the base of the plate, we can see a hairline fracture, horizontal, small pragule? of the legs, which carry out a traverse of about 2 m to the right of the step-rated with the grade 6. After the crossing we climb up to the 2 cams on the top of the plate to help us out of the great in this part. Out of the 2 hands we keep the original on the grass, and then to the left, to the edge of the ridge, (2 pitons, with rope) on which the advance is 20 metres up in the grouping is right on the edge (1 to 1 pin). On the left, across the line of fire is the grouping of the Edge of the Deer. The use of long loops.

LC4 - 25 km. Get out of the pool all the way up to a portion very easy. Get a wider one, that near the horizontal, in a spectacular amphitheatre. Make sure only one python. It brings together, on a small brâna of the pot below the chimney end, at the 2 cams, and a spit driven into the wall on the left.

LC5 - 40 km. Continue a few meters on the brâna at the base of the chimney, then climb up the wall to the left (2 hands) until it is under a large slab of the horizontal, to which the edge holding up very well. You have to cross (twist) to the right. Here you can ask a friend mid-size, and 1 m above, on the right of the assured is a department. 1 m above the right side secure a first ever. In a 3-km reach below a slab of stone which is blocking the chimney, and we are taking a step to the left, on a small platform of rock. From here, there are two ways to proceed:
1 - cross the left for 4 km until it crosses the route of the Ridge to the Deer, which continued the 20 km to the end where there is a hospital next to a crack on the left side at the level of the head. 2 - the switch on the wall on the right-hand side where there is a at a hospital. Once you pass through a sprai? the air on the wall with the humor, holding the edge of the block is recessed and marked with 2 hands. Here is the step-rated with the 6+/7- and it consists in the lifting of the face (with his feet on the grip) until you get to the left some plugs in the top of the chimney, and you're able to get up on the cast. The ones that don't fail, I can use it for a second to spit out the right distance. We go on to another stone ledge, where you'll meet the last of the spit, easily hidden in the legs, and then they use to be a little pulled to the left, or the other leading to the right. If you are making a left, we'll go through the Ridge, the Deer, and then go over the lip of the cliff, we'll see it on the left side of a spit next to a crack. If we live in a right to fag, we're going to take care on the rocks, as it is hard and brittle. In this range the communication of the second is rather cumbersome.
Information source
Mihai Dăiţoiu
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2013/05/muchia-iepurasului-alpinism-in_1.html
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2014/12/13/traseul-muchia-iepurasului-peretele-animalelor/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Access route: In the Glade, In the last glade of the Keys to the Râ?noavelor prior to the barrier, climbs up to the left through the woods in a valley evidently, until at the end of the program. Prior to going out in the woods on the ridges, the trail bends right at the base of the Wall to the Animals. The route is among the top of the wall, between the two ridges, of which the first is most prominent, advanced in the forest.
Retreat route: He climbs up 5 meters to the left before we reach the point at the end of the course, the Edge of the Deer then go to the right, the trail descends through the forest behind the Animal on the ground rather than tilted. The path goes up in zigzag to the right-hand corner of the wall, where it turns right at the base of the Wall, to the Animals and back to the valley by the Meadow In.
Retreat duration: 30-45 min

Topo

Topo

Muchia Iepuraşului

Pictures


Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 28.10.2018 Eugen Horjea, Daniel Mihalache

Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Users who climbed the route


Dorin Cristea - 29.09.2019, Vara
- 29.09.2019Am iesit pe dreapta, 6+/7-.
Adrian Scurtu - 29.09.2019, Vara
- 29.09.2019
Boghi Bear - 13.07.2019
- 13.07.2019
Adi Min - 08.06.2019, Vara
- 08.06.2019Am iesit pe stanga.
Boghi Bear - 08.06.2019, Vara
- 08.06.2019Am iesit pe stanga.
Adrian Scurtu - 08.06.2019, Vara
- 08.06.2019Catarare in trei. Arpi cap de coarda. 1 ora si 50 de minute.
Alexander Edelweiss - 28.10.2018, Vara
- 28.10.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 11.10.2018, Vara
- 11.10.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 07.10.2018
- 07.10.2018
Andrei Badea - 28.09.2018, Vara
- 28.09.2018
Horjea Eugen - 28.09.2018, Vara
- 28.09.2018
Adi Min - 12.09.2018, Vara
- 12.09.2018In ultima lungime am iesit pe stanga.
Dorin Cristea - 12.09.2018, Vara
- 12.09.2018In ultima lungime am iesit pe stanga.
Adrian Scurtu - 30.04.2018
- 30.04.2018
Andrei Vlad - 09.04.2018, Vara
- 09.04.2018
Mihai Daitoiu - 23.10.2017, Vara
- 23.10.2017Cu o zi inainte, pe 22.10.2017, in traseu au fost montate spituri: cate unul in regrupari, doua spituri pe prima lungime (pana in hornul cu iarba) si cca 6 spituri pe hornul spectaculos din ultima lungime. Atentie la intrarea in traseu pana se asigura primul piton(vopsit cu rosu) si apoi,dupa cca 4 metri de iarba si stanca friabila, primul spit.
Dorin Cristea - 02.09.2017, Vara
- 02.09.2017
Adrian Mihai - 04.02.2017
- 04.02.2017
Wilhelm Martini - 11.08.1984, Vara
- 11.08.1984
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Urucu Marius - 29.09.2018

Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Access route: In the Glade, In the last glade of the Keys to the Râ?noavelor prior to the barrier, climbs up to the left through the woods in a valley evidently, until at the end of the program. Prior to going out in the woods on the ridges, the trail bends right at the base of the Wall to the Animals. The route is among the top of the wall, between the two ridges, of which the first is most prominent, advanced in the forest.
Retreat route: He climbs up 5 meters to the left before we reach the point at the end of the course, the Edge of the Deer then go to the right, the trail descends through the forest behind the Animal on the ground rather than tilted. The path goes up in zigzag to the right-hand corner of the wall, where it turns right at the base of the Wall, to the Animals and back to the valley by the Meadow In.

Equipment


Sursă: Cristi Popescu

Comments