Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Muchia Căprioarei (The Edge Of The Deer) 4B, 6+ (5+, A0)
4,25/5 (4 votes)




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  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (77)
  • Video (5)
  • Map
  • Comments (1)
added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Andrei Badea la data de 24.06.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6+
Type: Classic route

 Muchia Căprioarei 
Orientation: S
Length: 5-6 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 180 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsRidgeLoose rocksRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu
Repaired date: 2016


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route fixed by the anchors of the mechanical by the end of 2016/beginning of 2017 at the latest. Each pool has a 1 to it, and the last length of 3 expansion bolts.

LC-1 - just Go to the edge on the left-hand side of the latter, and at 6 m above, cross to the right side under the belly, with a little divot, where we have the first cam in the wall. Continue to the right, slightly upward on some of the skirts loose, and then orient it vertically, left side, towards the ridge meets the first pool in between. Go for it and keep on the cutting edge as soon as we get a little time where you can regroup convenient. The length is 40 m, and it is far from assured in finding just the five of hands. The difficulty doesn't exceed class 4.

LC-2 - Go toward the left side upward approximately 3 m at the piton and then up on to her face quickly fell, where we got a step further, technically, at level 5+, secure it well. After the passing of his up on the ridge up to the pool mid-term at a time and continue to hold the leading edge of the ridge until we get to one of the two pools. If we have a string of 60 yards or longer to get past the pool all the way at the top of a portion of the light, but is provided with only one pin. We'll get to another pool where we have more of the clean, two-edge and two on the front right side of a spit. Here, grouped conveniently.

LC-3 - All of the above on the cutting edge in the first over of a small portion of the best technique (where to find it and the spit) and then on the ground gently, but hard and brittle, and without health insurance. It brings together up to 35 m at the base of a small pere?el.


LC-4 - Go up the fissure at a slight tilt to the right. Here we have a ball python that don't come in any kind of carabiniera (going placed the wire on a nut). Immediately above the meeting of a readily friable to a power outlet good results from the rupture of an old plaque instability. Exceeding the section, we come to another department in the same problem as the one below (but not under the that we have a hospital that can provide a comfortable). For a large, which sounds like a goal, and that is right on top of the chords, and the pool is inviting us to your attention. Here, the optimists make history, and the passage is regarded as pretty much a 6+. You have to climb with care, so as not to knock anything down there. After securing a second, to us, up to a threshold and entered a small chimneyule? (where you'll find a third ever). On top of this we continue on the ridge, through an area of light, but is far from assured, and a bit crumbly, getting in the pool, after approximately 38 km. For those who can't climb up, or you don't want to use the German, the passage can be made solely on the artificial. The grouping is situated in a low saddle and is enhanced by the three hands and some spit. Its length is 38 km, and the estimated the 6+/7- at the top of the rift.

LC-5 to Go up, slightly left, on the front end, with the side skirts better. Once they arrived at the base of a wall, cross the left over the edge, being very careful to the your feet because there is a large, loose, who's waiting for the urge to go. After crossing the ridge we climb to the vertical on a small chimney is technically considered a 6-and-up on some of the rapids more brittle. Gonna meet a rock, what's headed our way, the place where we cross to the right side, above the threshold, then all the way up to over a few more rapids and get to the platform in the forest, where it pooled on the bottom of a braid, with a loop of red string. The length is about 40 m, and the degree of 6 - on the chimney.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://www.totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2014/10/muchia-caprioarei-cu-angi-iulian-si-miha.html
danabaza.blogspot.ro - http://danabaza.blogspot.ro/2013/11/muchia-caprioarei-4b-din-peretele.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Retreat route: The path through the forest (off to the right), we'll be back at the base of the wall.

Topo

Topo

Sursă:Mihai Dăițoiu

Pictures


Muchia Căprioarei

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 11.11.2018 Eugen Horjea, Daniel Mihalache
  • 01.05.2017 Junioru etc.
  • 01.04.2016 Vali Oprea, Alexandru Dumitrescu

Muchia Căprioarei

Users who climbed the route


Adrian Scurtu - 29.09.2019, Vara
- 29.09.2019
Andrei - 11.09.2019
- 11.09.2019
Jabon - 11.09.2019
- 11.09.2019
Dorin Cristea - 18.08.2019, Vara
- 18.08.2019
Boghi Bear - 06.07.2019
- 06.07.2019
Adi Min - 08.06.2019, Vara
- 08.06.2019
Boghi Bear - 08.06.2019, Vara
- 08.06.2019
Adrian Scurtu - 08.06.2019, Vara
- 08.06.2019Catarare in trei. Arpi cap de coarda. 1 ora si 40 minute.
Adi Min - 26.05.2019, Vara
- 26.05.2019
Horjea Eugen - 26.05.2019, Vara
- 26.05.2019
Adi Min - 04.04.2019, Vara
- 04.04.2019
Dorin Cristea - 04.04.2019, Vara
- 04.04.2019
Alexander Edelweiss - 27.10.2018, Vara
- 27.10.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 12.10.2018, Vara
- 12.10.2018
Andrei - 07.10.2018
- 07.10.2018
Dorin Cristea - 06.10.2018, Vara
- 06.10.2018
Andrei Badea - 15.04.2018, Vara
- 15.04.2018
Mihai Daitoiu - 15.04.2018, Vara
- 15.04.2018
Adi Min - 05.11.2017, Vara
- 05.11.2017
Dorin Cristea - 05.11.2017, Vara
- 05.11.2017
Dorin Cristea - 20.08.2017, Vara
- 20.08.2017
Andrei - 01.04.2017, Vara
- 01.04.2017
Mihai Barbu - 01.04.2017, Vara
- 01.04.2017
Iulia Darie - 01.04.2017
- 01.04.2017
Andrei - 02.10.2016, Vara
- 02.10.2016
Razvan Hotea - 15.04.2016, Vara
- 15.04.2016
Adi Min - 22.06.2014, Vara
- 22.06.2014
LauraB - 22.06.2014, Vara
- 22.06.2014
Andrei - 25.05.2014
- 25.05.2014
Andrei - 26.05.2013, Vara
- 26.05.2013Primul meu traseu mai serios de mai multe lungimi
Szabolcs-Csaba Boloni - 09.09.2012, Vara
- 09.09.2012
Wilhelm Martini - 24.09.1983, Vara
- 24.09.1983
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900
Alexandru Anton - 01.01.1900, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


tamassslv

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 11.09.2019

Video - Alexander Edelweiss - 27.10.2018

Video - Silviu Stan - 07.10.2016

Video - Vlad Isac - 10.04.2016

Video - Vlad Isac - 14.11.2015

Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 07.7" E 25° 32' 39.6"    
Retreat route: The path through the forest (off to the right), we'll be back at the base of the wall.

Equipment


Muchia Căprioarei

Comments