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Exodus 5B, 7a (6a, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Ad mini la data de 03.04.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7a
Type: Classic route

 Faţa Hornurilor 
Orientation: S
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 1150 m
Height: 180 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsGrass

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu, Gheorghe Dan, Dan Radeșiu, Eugen Pop
Date: 07.10.1978


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: Starts on a dihedral slightly and continues on the sides and cracks full of grass up to the pool at 3 pitons. In principle there are no changes of direction and I find a 4-5 pitons two trees up in the pool. 30m, grade 4.

LC 2: Go through the right of the pool, on a chimneyule? with vegetation. After 4-5m, turn left, go out on a face more compact where we have the first python (what is seen and from the pool). Continue a few meters until we reach a face compact, secured to the base with a python. Here's a short traverseu to the left, the grip, and get a crack/dihedral that you'll still 7-8m. After sure 2 hands very close together (probably a former pool temporary), we provide the next python on crack, then traverse to the right, leaving the crack. We continue on a new crack well pitonata still 5-6m up in the grouping composed of 4 hands tied with a rope. 30m, grade 6/6+

LC 3: Get up on the crack under the archway (where we find a python what you'll see when we'll be in the his right), turn right under the archway (where you can place and a friend) then keep going up over the arch. Follows a out touching on a wider one, that of grass (where we are forced to keep only grass). Continue up the crack, then the thresholds, maximum degree 5, but with the hands widely spaced. 35m, grade 6

LC 4: up and slightly right on cracks and faces of the grass. The length is pretty dirty. Get on fisurele to the right of the bushes (although on the left, we have a chimney grass easier), then take a left on top of the bush. We arrive at a belay station on several pitons. 30m, grade 6-

LC 5: Continue on to the rift (passages slightly moving due to the grass very large - python is beaten on the front of the compact from the left), which spread soon to the left in a climbing free very beautiful. Clean enough and solid. We will meet after approx 25m a pool with 2 expansion bolts with maion (and a succession of expansion bolts and pitons on top of a face very beautiful and compact). They are part of the Excelsior. Continue to the left, with a small desca?arare and in 5m we arrive at a belay station python + spit on a small threshold. 30m, grade 6.

LC 6: Follow the series of cams on the rift. It goes mainly artificial, the rock is poor quality, with trends of flaking. The artificial is easy, and can almost all the time to get to the next piton in the last step of the stirrup bar. Crack gently begin to arch his left. The end length is quite exciting, being necessary a traverseu left over a plate huge (4x4m) what sounds hollow and seems loose on all sides. Address with maximum attention! Regroup the 2 pitons on a small threshold. 30m, grade 5, A1

LC 7: Continue up the 7-8m all artificial, the rock having the same trends of flaking. Then we'll suddenly make a right at a piton with rope, leaving the crack, continuing on the doorsteps easy moves, then a fisurica easy overhangnta, where we have a step imposed more greu?, where can we place a friend small. Go out on a threshold, where we'll have the last python. Follows still 7-8m of climbing easy and go out in the first glade of grass. After another 5-7m climbing trivial we get in a bottleneck, where regroup from a big tree. 35m, grade 6+, A1
Information source
Ioana Acsinia - http://flutureledepiatra.ro/2015/05/05/traseul-exodus-masivul-postavarul/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 33' 06.3" E 25° 32' 32.9"    
Retreat route: We have 2 variants:
1. From the tree thick at the end where we have regrouped, we can give a booster short to search for the end of the course, Excelsior, 2 expansion bolts. There with half ropes of 60m, then down over the wall of 4 simbols long.

2. Do a small booster on the threshold where I went out in the woods to our left. From there we cross on brâna and down among the christmas trees up to a tree surrounded by cords. From here, descend of 4 simbols:
Booster 1 (45-50 m): We rapela among bushes along a swath of land disturbed. Halfway the descent we pass over a station booster damaged, now made up from a single piton with a few cords, and the use of which is for the time being very dangerous. We get on a vârfule? where, at a tree split in three and scored with cords ready booster 2.
Booster 2 (30 m + walk 2-3 km): it Is a booster routed along the brânei to the forest. Halfway through his we have a rupture grassy slope which we can be swerving towards the pit. The last few meters I go on brâna until we get to a massive tree marked with cords.
Booster 3 (30 km + walk 2-3 km): among the trees (on a path inclined) until it comes out on a sloping green roof. Here we have on the left (how rapelam with his face to the wall), a thick tree where they can make a booster of at least 40 m. We will orientate towards the last tree from the bottom (slightly right), who has cords on a branch (branch) very thick oriented already towards the valley. The last few meters it can go, carefully however to have the ends of the cords knotted whereas below it is a wall!
Booster 4 (30 m): the Rope can be put after the piece of the trunk thick and oriented towards the valley. Rapelam 7-8 meters on the slope of the grassy among some bushes, then follows a wall of about 20 m. We finish the rappel in the valley, on a slope somewhat skewed. Attention to the stones, immediately leave the area before next to start the rappel!

Topo

Topo

Exodus

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Users who climbed the route


Iulian Bogatu - 14.03.2021
- 14.03.20215/7 lc
Constantinescu Anita - 14.10.2018
- 14.10.20182(LC)
Oana Cindea - 14.10.2018
- 14.10.20182(LC)
Lucian Apostu - 06.10.2018, Vara
- 06.10.2018
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

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Map



GPS: N 45° 33' 06.3" E 25° 32' 32.9"    
Retreat route: We have 2 variants:
1. From the tree thick at the end where we have regrouped, we can give a booster short to search for the end of the course, Excelsior, 2 expansion bolts. There with half ropes of 60m, then down over the wall of 4 simbols long.

2. Do a small booster on the threshold where I went out in the woods to our left. From there we cross on brâna and down among the christmas trees up to a tree surrounded by cords. From here, descend of 4 simbols:
Booster 1 (45-50 m): We rapela among bushes along a swath of land disturbed. Halfway the descent we pass over a station booster damaged, now made up from a single piton with a few cords, and the use of which is for the time being very dangerous. We get on a vârfule? where, at a tree split in three and scored with cords ready booster 2.
Booster 2 (30 m + walk 2-3 km): it Is a booster routed along the brânei to the forest. Halfway through his we have a rupture grassy slope which we can be swerving towards the pit. The last few meters I go on brâna until we get to a massive tree marked with cords.
Booster 3 (30 km + walk 2-3 km): among the trees (on a path inclined) until it comes out on a sloping green roof. Here we have on the left (how rapelam with his face to the wall), a thick tree where they can make a booster of at least 40 m. We will orientate towards the last tree from the bottom (slightly right), who has cords on a branch (branch) very thick oriented already towards the valley. The last few meters it can go, carefully however to have the ends of the cords knotted whereas below it is a wall!
Booster 4 (30 m): the Rope can be put after the piece of the trunk thick and oriented towards the valley. Rapelam 7-8 meters on the slope of the grassy among some bushes, then follows a wall of about 20 m. We finish the rappel in the valley, on a slope somewhat skewed. Attention to the stones, immediately leave the area before next to start the rappel!

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