15 yeas ago, Mircea Casassovici was leaving us.

Surplombele de Aur 6A, (4c/4c+, A2+)
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 03.11.2017

General characteristics

Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 4c/4c+
Aid climbing grade: A2+
Clean aid grade: C1
Type: Classic route

Orientation: S-W
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 820 m
Height: 200 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Miklós Nagy, Dumitru Chivu
Date: 22.08.1971
First winter solo ascent: George Stroie (Bivuacu)

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Is the best known route in the Keys of the Citadel and is approximately 200 m. A route with the rock pretty solid, given the first 3 lengths very overhangte (out approx 8-10 km in the console, from the start of the route). All pools have at least one anchor mechanical. Due to the difficulty and many pitons can't we unite lengths, even if they are short.

LC1: Climb a series of cracks discontinuous, and in the second half of her some passages moves. Regroup in the stirrups on a face flushed in the right of pitons related and a spit. The length can be travelled on free, given the degree of 9/9+, in the condition in which are very many cams does not recommend this. 30 m A1.

LC2: we are Entering a traverseu right slightly downward on one side washed without the sockets of the hands or feet. We could also use the "current hand" installed in that section. Attention, the first or second python how do we get out of the pool moves, but trac?ionat down keep. Continue on a crack more or less pronounced by the pool (in a cave, large and spacious). The last meters are free on a plot slightly brittle. 25 m 5, A1+.

LC3: The hard length of the artificial route. Are required a minimum of 20 loops equipped. It is the last place from which we can withdraw with ropes of 60 m, to the intersection Via Ferratei. Attention, to the left, you see a few pitons from the attempt, the route is NOT on there. Go to the right upward a crack which we will follow until the next belay station. The middle section is the hardest, with the cams not that great. We will meet and the second sheaf of wooden wedges (the first is in the first LC). In some places from the last rung of the stirrup bar we don't get to the next piton. We will need more mobile (friend medium-high, nuts medium-large). Regrouping is on a small platform. From here the only way of retreat is up still 2 LC. 25 m, A2+, C1.

LC4: the Wall falls, becoming vertical. We follow a large crack what we go through in free climbing. The distance between the cams being the largest it is useful and a friend more sizable. Regrouping chest of drawers. 20 m, 4, A1

LC5: the Following 2 lengths (in the drawings) is connected. We start up on a fisurica then cross her face flushed until a new rift that takes us out on a brâni?a where we intersect with the Via Ferrata. 40 m, 4, A1, C1.

LC6: Start on the crack, then traverse right until you reach a dihedral. From here the route becomes less inclined. 30 m, A1.

LC7: Cross the right until we arrive at a chimney and then in free climbing to the top. 5-.

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 42.9" E 25° 31' 04.7"    



Surplombele de Aur



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Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980

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GPS: N 45° 32' 42.9" E 25° 31' 04.7"