Sulfinelor 5B, (6a, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 30.04.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

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Orientation: S-W
Length: 6 pitches
Altitude: 810 m
Height: 180 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsAid climbingRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emil Coliban


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Between Caesar Manea and Overhangs of the Gold is carried on a rock overhangta and slightly crumbly two trails well pitonate, with belay station solid, what they the second half joint. Having entries written to the base, Moldoveanu (5A) and the Sulfine (5B) are easily identified and followed, presenting passages of artificial why do advisable to use scari?elor.

LC1: enters the route in a way exposed, due to the brittleness of the rock and the fact that the first piton, which seems puny, is located on the left side of the line, a few meters from the ground. It continues with beautiful passages on a crack (the 6th) until under a beetle before belay station (6+/7- or A0).

LC2: From belay station uncomfortable, turn on a chimney tilted (6), with sufficient pitons, continue on a crack easy overhangta up to the key passage of the route: a fissure-horn without hands (6+) which we get up close to the pool.

LC3: on the threshold where we stopped across the face with the hands close together, and we are committed to the left, through the areas that can easily be passed to free, up to a python with a rope long. Here we will make a crossing difficult to the left, the rope serving as a stirrup for those who have not brought from home. The crossing is tricky and requires some strength in your arms, because you will have to do a lift on a threshold with sockets not very good at hands, and feet sockets will come later, after we get out of the stapes or of the rope. The belay station follows after this passage and it is with a short traverse to the left, although we have the cams right back up. From here the routes unite, the description of the continuing length of the fourth path Moldoveanu.

LC4: further the route follows a face flushed air on approx. 25m.

LC5: Continue with the length of a degree 6+ rotpunkt which measures all 25m. The end of the length is through the little trough friable (facing left front of the route line) and without insurance or straight up and then with a small traverse left, all without insurance.

LC6: Starts with a crack in the bavarian make in a piton with rope, after which not see any python, but we can place a coconut, cut a small beetle (after overcoming that we find the next python) and go to the left on the passages and light with few pitons, up in the ridge.

The route Sulfine presents passages of 6+ required, being a little more brittle than Moldoveanu peak.
Information source
Nomenclatorul traseelor
roclimbing.ro - http://www.roclimbing.ro/moldoveanu-sulfine/
Completare descriere - Radu Ciofringeanu

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 42.9" E 25° 31' 04.7"    
Retreat route: It makes the withdrawal on the trail obvious then in the woods seems to be losing, but going down through the trees we get very quickly to the base of the keys.

Topo

Topo

Sulfinelor

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Users who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 26.07.2020, Vara
- 26.07.2020
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Radu Ciofringeanu - 01.01.1900, Vara

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Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 42.9" E 25° 31' 04.7"    
Retreat route: It makes the withdrawal on the trail obvious then in the woods seems to be losing, but going down through the trees we get very quickly to the base of the keys.

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