Today we celebrate 6 years since BPTL (Bine Pentru Toată Lumea) (Peretele Nordic Lespezi-Călţun) first ascent, 1 year since Regatul di Gheață (Peretele Nordic Lespezi-Călţun) first ascent

Alpiniada 4B, 6b (4c/4c+, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 25.12.2015

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 4c/4c+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b
Type: Classic route

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Orientation: S-W
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 810 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsTraverseCrackRecommendedFantastic

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 a few metres from the exit route is to the right, directing us to a more obvious, which runs obliquely to the right along the wall. There are several pitons related to the chord that we can help, if we feel the need, and then we can climb cracks, air. Step from the platform regruparii.
LC2 to get lost in to the left on the scale pitons with the ring with little rosettes at the toe. We leave in zonâ grassy several bushes, without insurance. We approached R2 together two routes. LC1 and LC2 can be associated. Here you can go with a single steering wheel from 60 m to brâna departure.

LC3 short. Has three slanting cracks that need escaladate. When we leave the last we get to the aggregators, in pitons.

LC4 Overcome Board by washing the crack is obvious and we follow the right side, a step air where you can see the beginning of the route. Under the boa over the threshold haului is invisible initially. Continue ascending until until difficulties are diminished, and we come on the basis of chimney pamântos. Regrupam because otherwise it will RUB badly the ligaments.

LC5 poorly secured. There are 2-3 pitons on the engine and one for exceeding ?ancului the end. The easiest way, on the left slope of hon. Once you are there, we can regroup on ?anc or a tree, or we can continue up to 15-20 m on the ridge to the cables tiroliana. The second, if to pull the rope very hard, we could damage in the escalation of the pipe.
Information source
http://blog.tataru.net - http://blog.tataru.net/topo-cezar-manea-4b-7-5a1/

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 42.9" E 25° 31' 04.7"    
Retreat route: The conclusion on the footpath obviously, then in the woods, it seems, loses, but the descent amongst the trees, we very quickly, on the basis of keys.

Topo

Topo

Alpiniada

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Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

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Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 42.9" E 25° 31' 04.7"    
Retreat route: The conclusion on the footpath obviously, then in the woods, it seems, loses, but the descent amongst the trees, we very quickly, on the basis of keys.

Equipment


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