Today we celebrate 69 years since Traseul Fomino (Peretele Brânei Mari a Caraimanului) first ascent, 61 years since Traseul Central din Padina Închisă (Peretele Padinei Închise) first ascent

Traseul 5 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 16.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 04.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto si desen: Rupi (2019) 
Orientation: E
Length: 5 pitches
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsOverhangPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Aurel Irimia, László Karácsonyi


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The line of the climbing Route a 5, how you look on the wall, the edge of the right-hand of the cracks are deep, which is visible on the vertical face of the latter. The passages of the moves on the map it requires the use of the common scari?elor. The route of the very air, is a very good exercise for the mountain climbers what you do to make the escalade of a higher grade. The route is 5 the length of the string.

The narrow strip of Mica up on the first l. C. is the face of the wall above the small stage by the grass that lead down to the level of a small dihedral, which we follow, passing through a beetle; the cross and then the acc. 2 km to the right, to the right of the cracks, tilted obliquely to the right, which gets us back under the ceiling of the overhangs not too prominent on the face of the wall. The crack is obstructed by a succession of passages, moves that can be passed through the receptacles of good, and the rings firmly attached softens the harshness of the road, and at the end, after 40 meters on a small platform, green roof.

2, l. C. is being conducted on the line of the maximum slope of the wall, along a fissure opened through which ramonam; at the end, it is cut off by a beetle over that we live out on the ridge line that forms the sidewall of the Chimney, with the Flowers up to the platform from the pool.

By means of a traverse to the left and resume our climb in one of the 3rd CL., over a series of obstacles, the tough, consisting of many blocks, moves which require us to switch on very often in the direction of travel.

Regrupându for the 3-l. C., on a platform, green roof, we'll climb the (4-l. C.) by means of a passage of 8 and 9 m to the right, that leads under a passageway vertically along the carula climb. Still there is a sluice box turf, you take over in front of a group, with the junipers, where we regrouped again.

On the 5th of the lc scale with the help of a few hands braced on the trail, the face of a cliff, is located on the left side. On the top of his climb is over.

The descent follows a chimney, a broad (Funnel Flowers), is located to the right of the route, and the end of the narrow strip of Mica.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 56.4" E 25° 30' 09.3"    
Access route: The entrance is directly in the Middle of Mark
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: It comes down through the Chimney, with the Flowers, and through which we can achieve in a Belt of Mica.
Retreat duration: 3 hours

Topo

Topo

Traseul 5

Pictures


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi (2019)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi (2019)

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 56.4" E 25° 30' 09.3"    
Access route: The entrance is directly in the Middle of Mark
Retreat route: It comes down through the Chimney, with the Flowers, and through which we can achieve in a Belt of Mica.

Equipment


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi (2019)

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