Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Cezar Manea (Traseul Jgheabului) (Cezar Manea (The Route Of The Gutter)) 4B, 7+ (5, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 07.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 30.04.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Type: Classic route

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Orientation: S-W
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 810 m
Height: 150 m
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsTraverseDihedralCrackChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Cezar Manea, Alexandru Brumărescu
Date: 1973


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1 - Of right of entry in the route we climb on a crack in the right route climbing Crida. We arrive at a belay station intermediate (top Crida). From here we continue on the plugs good, but a little more difficult up to a pool with many pitons related with the cable. Additional there are 2 spit-ups, just good to be assured for those who want to try LC2 to the free.

LC2 - Start with a dihedral difficult, right above the pool. Cams very frequent, it can be put and the stapes. After the dihedral out in an area of mild to a wider one, that here is where we find 2 pitons tied with rope, but if you go on it to the left a few meters we will give you some bolts probably used to the via ferrata. From here you can descend through a single booster of 60m up to the girdle of the departure.

LC3 - it's short, has 3 cracks oblique what should be escalated, and when we get out of the last crack we get in a pool with the pitons.

LC4 - Overcome the washed plate on the crack obvious and follow it right in to a step air where you can see the start of the route. Under the python above the pit there is a threshold of the invisible initially. Continue upward until the difficulties decrease and we arrive at the base of a chimney pamântos. Regroup for that would otherwise rub hard cords.

LC5 - Is poorly secured. There are 2-3 pitons on the chimney and one after overcoming ?ancului final. The easier it comes out on the left side of the chimney. Once we get here either regroup at a time or a tree, or continue 15-20 m on the ridge up to the cables of zip line. Attention to the second, if you pull very hard on the ropes we can inconvenience in climbing the chimney.
Information source
- Nomenclatorul traseelor
- http://blog.tataru.net - http://blog.tataru.net/topo-cezar-manea-4b-7-5a1/


Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 42.9" E 25° 31' 04.7"    
Retreat route: It makes the path obvious then in the woods seems to be losing, but going down through the trees we get very quickly to the base of the keys.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: blog.tataru.net

Pictures


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Diaries & links



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Users who climbed the route


Razvan Hotea - 27.05.2018, Vara
- 27.05.2018
Andrei - 07.04.2018
- 07.04.2018
Alexandru Baran - 07.04.2018
- 07.04.2018
Adrian Mihai - 01.10.2017, Vara
- 01.10.2017
Rosmalin Alin - 22.09.2017
- 22.09.2017traseu frumos
Andrei - 10.08.2017, Vara
- 10.08.2017
Mihai Barbu - 10.08.2017, Vara
- 10.08.2017
Andrei - 05.08.2017
- 05.08.2017
Radu Ciofringeanu - 22.07.2017
- 22.07.2017
Iulia Darie - 22.07.2017
- 22.07.2017
Andrei - 20.04.2014
- 20.04.2014
Wilhelm Martini - 03.10.1982, Vara
- 03.10.1982
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

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Map



GPS: N 45° 32' 42.9" E 25° 31' 04.7"    
Retreat route: It makes the path obvious then in the woods seems to be losing, but going down through the trees we get very quickly to the base of the keys.

Equipment


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Comments