Hornul Agăţat 5B
0.00/5 (0 votes)




2147 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Equipment
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 02.09.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 25.09.2015

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Quickdraws: 25
Type: Classic route

 Hornul Agăţat 
Orientation: S
Length: 8 pitches
Altitude: 1550 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 5 - 6 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsCrackChimneyGrassLoose rocksNot recommendedDangerousPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emilian Cristea, Matei Schenn, László Karácsonyi, Petre Cristina
Date: 1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Looked at overall, this route is three separate parts. The first is by ca?aratura free ; the second, which begins in the "Forest Belt", through the transfer passage overhangnt traversari and frequent, and the latter, through the ascent of the great chimney that precedes the final part of the plates, washed and torn into small tubes.

About 15 m before the zone of inflection of the wall of the Large Urlatorii we observed based Skok, in part înierbat, we will climb straight until the height of the butt.

Next to this landmark, first L. C. to overcome a number of obstacles, with a rosette of solid, cut into small fragments overhangnte, sometimes grassy, which makes going through a short traversari. In the final part, about. 30 m in height, hold the bypass to the right, and then, in the distance, we belay station on the Belt of Forest.

2-L. C. reperam second zada, close to where we are in the period right diagonal, 8 m, to the base of the walls that his us in the face, veins big crack.

With a few pitons forward during his 3-L. C., along the cracks that sometimes surplombeaza. After approx. 25 m us to retreat 2 meters to the left, go through the passage knead, then to the lungs inierbata and we belay station on surplombe on the platform, narrow, near pâlc from junipers.

Pilc leaving this on the left, pass pass overhangnt (L. C. 4), on vertical walls streaked with cracks inclined oblique to the left ; go so near the waist that extends to the right. Across the aisle in the same direction, long m 8-9, we come to the point where we can regroup.

5-L. C. forth along the belt, hovering up and remembered, approx. 4-5 m, and the place that allows you to change direction, we are directed to the left and up, using the steps from the grass and sockets that are found along the threshold, which ends at the base unealaturi easy overhangnte. After we get through this obstacle using 3 pitons, we are to retreat 2 meters to the left, the point from which we have the opportunity to climb along the edges, and then gallop to the pronounced tendency, which ends at the zone covers part of jnepeni.

6 L. C. passes over top and wash with outlets little, interrupted occasionally small platforms, some balconies grassy that îngreuneaza than the nomination. in the final part of the run looms ever more clearly spintecatura Pipe Hangs.

Following the line of the largest inclination of the wall (7-LC.) to overcome some of the obstacles grassy that precede the entrance of the big chimney, on which to forward the exhaustion of a 40 m chord.

In the last L. C. (8) we ascend the inner tube, sometimes bypassing obstacles overhangnte. In the final part, the chimney surplombând, go out to face a strong bias and sockets, loose that ends at the peak forest.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 21.7" E 25° 30' 25.8"    
Access route: Access is from a Log on the path in the Valley of the Schiel Urlatorilor, to the point "In the Canteen" (tourist route " the blue triangle). There trail that bypasses left on the Edge Urlatorilor, lead at the base of the wall South.
Access duration: 2 hours
Retreat route: On the top of the forest, where the climb ends, we focused on the North, following the ridge towards the forest, on the Road Urlatorilor.
Retreat duration: 2 hours

Topo

Topo

Hornul Agăţat

Pictures


Hornul Agăţat

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Hornul Agăţat

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 21.7" E 25° 30' 25.8"    
Access route: Access is from a Log on the path in the Valley of the Schiel Urlatorilor, to the point "In the Canteen" (tourist route " the blue triangle). There trail that bypasses left on the Edge Urlatorilor, lead at the base of the wall South.
Retreat route: On the top of the forest, where the climb ends, we focused on the North, following the ridge towards the forest, on the Road Urlatorilor.

Equipment


Rope: 2 half ropes
Quickdraws: 25
Cams and nuts: 25
Additional equipment: 25
Hornul Agăţat

Comments