Traseul Victor Măciucă (The Route Of The Victor's Club) 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 15.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Type: Classic route

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Length: 5 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Victor Măciucă, László Karácsonyi
Date: 15.10.1955


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

In the Tartar Sea-wall to the right of the wire, V. Ialomita is broken, and in the immediate vicinity of the entrance to the north, a cutting of the huge, well-known, the Crack in the Wall of the Tartar Mare (or the Victor's Club, in memory of the premieristului). It goes up in bits and pieces, huge over a couple of parts moves to the ridge.

LC1: Is it a flaw that we move forward with the help of the scari?elor. At the end of the 40 of us grouped up on the platform is very narrow, in a beetle. Here, by means of a traverse to the left to catch a crack that goes obliquely to the right (approx. The 20-m).

LC2: A new passage, very difficult, and the air force, requires a lot of attention to the plugs absent, and the assurance of effective it will be almost impossible due to the brittleness of the small cracks in the wall. This passage is of extreme difficulty, ending up on a platform that is very skewed. I would add that on this part of the role of the officer is not difficult. He is not able to perform the crossing only after carrying out a dose of 3 feet. In order to better regroup, get off a few meters on the left hand side there are a few very broad, across the whole of the wall.

Further, during the course of the 3-l. C., which is held upright in about 40 feet, is cut off from the low eaves.

After the pool we go to, in the course of the 4th L. C., a crack on the angle, really opened up broken at the end of a beetle. This barrier once passed, we continue the climb at the front, over a series of overhangs, spaced out over a distance of approx. 40 km.

The final part of the route, corresponding to a 5-l. C., it is climbing without much difficulty, and the ends, in approx. 20 m, in the vicinity of the peak from where the trail descends into a valley nearby, we'll be back in the V. Ialomita.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

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