Today we celebrate 64 years since Traversarea Peretelui (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 19 years since Hornul Ursului (Căldarea Hârtopu Ursului) first ascent

Traseul Victor Măciucă (Route Victor On End) 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 13.08.2015

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5A
Type: Classic route

Length: 5 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Victor Măciucă, László Karácsonyi
Date: 15.10.1955

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

In the Keys Tatarului Large, the right wall wire V. the Ialomita worthwhile is the veins, in the vicinity of the entrance on the North side, the graft is huge, known as the " crack in the Wall Tatarului Large (or Route Victor Raiser, in memory premieristului). It rises in bits and the huge number of parcels overhangnte, on a crest.

LC1: will cracks, which are made with ajutortil scari?elor. At the end of 40 m we belay station on the platform is very narrow, under overhang. Here, through the pass to the left to catch a crack that ascends obliquely to the right (approx. 20 m).

LC2: new bypass, air is extremely difficult and requires a lot of attention, sockets are missing almost completely, while the insurance is effective, being almost impossible because of the friabilita?ii small cracks on the wall. This passage with great difficulty, finally take on the platform is very prone. We will add that in this plot the role of secundului difficult. He is unable to perform the transition only after the steering wheel is 3-m. For better belay station, we deviate a few metres to the left onto a wide belt that crosses the entire wall.

Further, during the second 3-L. C., which runs vertically for about 40 km, terminated with a small strea?ini.

After a new redistribution pass, during your 4-L. C., cracked with a very open angle terminated in part, the final overhang. This obstacle once, the past, we continue the ascent on the front, a newer series surplombe, staggering on the go, approx. 40 m.

The final part of the route, the corresponding 5-L. C., acute without great difficulties and to accept, finally, after approx. 20 m, near the peak, the trail that descends vâlcel nearby, to V. Ialomita worthwhile.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000



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