Today we celebrate 69 years since Traseul Fomino (Peretele Brânei Mari a Caraimanului) first ascent, 61 years since Traseul Central din Padina Închisă (Peretele Padinei Închise) first ascent

Traseul 1 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 16.09.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 04.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto si desen: Rupi (2019) 
Orientation: E
Length: 3 pitches
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Matei Schenn, László Karácsonyi


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Route 1 is a series of obstacles, the strong kneading and the cracks in the high-level directions to be laid down. The point of maximum difficulty is reached in approx. 30 m from the entrance, and is represented by the shift of the overhangs, which can be easily observed from the narrow strip of Mica. The route features a total of 5 lengths of rope.

The first l. C. following the line of the cracks are very narrow and winding, which otherwise, in a diagonal to the right, avoiding a few obstacles, moves. The grouping is done on a platform of sandstone, about 40 m below the ceiling of the large overhangs.

2-L. C., cross to the right side, under the ceiling of the surplombei, ca. 10-12, followed by a vertical crack, that ends up in a place with a strong încastra?ii of the rocks, where there's a problem.

3, l. C. is approx. 25 meters over the course of a ditch along the slope, with big holds, after which it becomes slightly grassy, and ends at the end of the 40 yards of rope, at which point we'll regroup on the waist.

4 and 5, the L. C. shall be carried out to the right, there are a few very long, to 60 m interrupted by an obstacle that we, with the help of 3 cams.

Crossing over to a chimney-grass (Funnel Flowers), through which we descend easily to the Belt of Mica.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 56.4" E 25° 30' 09.3"    
Access route: The entrance is directly in the Middle of Mark
Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: It comes down through the Chimney, with the Flowers, and through which we can achieve in a Belt of Mica.
Retreat duration: 3 hours

Topo

Topo

Traseul 1

Pictures


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi (2019)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi (2019)

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 56.4" E 25° 30' 09.3"    
Access route: The entrance is directly in the Middle of Mark
Retreat route: It comes down through the Chimney, with the Flowers, and through which we can achieve in a Belt of Mica.

Equipment


Sursa foto si desen: Rupi (2019)

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