Faţa Sud-Vestică (Finala '66) 4A, 8 (5+, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 21.03.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 5+
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 8
Type: Classic route

 Sursa: Dimitriu, Cristea 1961. 36G. Faţa Sud-Vestică a Turnuleţului 
Length: 2 pitches
Climb duration: 1 - 2 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Mircea Crăciunescu, Gheorghe Athanasiu
Date: 1953
Repaired date: 2001


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route follows the line of a crack that divides symmetrically peretete south-west of the Turnule?ului, climbing up to the peak over a series of obstacles, very exposed. The final passage being overhangnt, requires a complicated maneuver of the ropes.
Starting from the base Turnule?ului, we leave on the right the slope of the what gets rid of Strunga Towers and, with a little bit before the point at which the path deviates to the right, you see in the wall a crack of overhangta a eaves huge. It is the place where begins the ascent of the Face the South-Western Turnule?ului.

LC1: Scaling the first portion, followed by a threshold stone, get under an overpass overhangnt whose difficult passage running through a crossing to the right. It follows a portion of the region is very troubled, which is continuous with a fissure oblique to the left and then with a chimney, above which we get on a platform by the pool, after the exhaustion of the first 40 m of the chord.

On the conduct of the 2-to L. C. we perform a traversal to the left, after which, the climb continues over a new beetle. From here, climb up a chimney completely devoid of outlets, after which, following the faces from the right, we arrive very soon at the top.
Information source
www.roclimbing.ro - http://www.roclimbing.ro/doua-trasee-in-turnuletul-din-valea-horoabelor/
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 28.9" E 25° 25' 40.2"    
Retreat route: Through a rappel of 20 m on the front of the corresponding Strungii the Towers down in the Alley the Old woman.

Topo

Topo

Faţa Sud-Vestică (Finala

Pictures


Sursa: Dimitriu, Cristea 1961. 36G. Faţa Sud-Vestică a Turnuleţului

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Sursa: Dimitriu, Cristea 1961. 36G. Faţa Sud-Vestică a Turnuleţului

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Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 28.9" E 25° 25' 40.2"    
Retreat route: Through a rappel of 20 m on the front of the corresponding Strungii the Towers down in the Alley the Old woman.

Equipment


Sursa: Dimitriu, Cristea 1961. 36G. Faţa Sud-Vestică a Turnuleţului

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