Today we celebrate 73 years since Trei Surplombe (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 46 years since Traseul 1 (Ocolaşul Mic) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 46 years since Traseul 2 (Ocolaşul Mic) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 46 years since Traseul 3 (Ocolaşul Mic) first ascent.  

Marian (Marian) 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 21.02.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 8
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu 
Length: 4 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsChemical anchors

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Vasilescu, Vasile Petec
Date: 2013


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail, Marian, opened relatively recently by mr. Dan Vasilescu, starts two metres right of the trail Cezarica, with the name written at the base with red paint. Although beaten recently, it is ensured mostly with pitons manufactured and the angles provided with the carabiners fixed.

LC1 - Leaving on a chimneyule?, located to the right of the route Cezarica, and get on it until a beetle under which we have a couple hourglasses huge. Get overhanging climbing streamlining to the left to reach a threshold rocky. To the left is our beetle from the first length of the route neighbor. We cross the threshold to the right to pass another small beetle about grade 6+. Once past the flyover move over a few rapids more friable up to a plate on which we find an anchor. Here we orient the vertical left over the plate and then over several other thresholds, far in belay station common with Cezarica. The length is 35m and the maximum degree 6+.

LC2 - Go to the wall orienting itself at a meter right of the route Cezarica, on one side with a small crack where we have a python and an anchor. In python we turn diagonally right to catch a small chimneyule? where we have the next insurance. We climb up on a small ridge and then over some thresholds more friable after which we turn diagonally right towards a ledge found at the base of a face crossed by a crack diagonally. Here re two anchors. The length is 35m and step 7 - at the crossing of the face of departure.

LC3 - Leaves above the pool on a vertical face, overhangta in the lower part, brazdrata a crack that goes diagonal right. The first steps are probably to degree 8-/8. It can be move to the artificial, using the stirrup. From here it gets a little easier. Between the second and third whose steps are on to grade 7. Once secured the third who follows a step on the vertical cam degree 7-/7. After this step go directly to a beetle on the grade 6+, and above it turn right, walking up on a small threshold leads us on a ledge where it is and a tree. Climbing on the threshold must be done with caution because the insurance is under the overhanging climbing on which I passed. From the tree climb vertically to a brîna where to find the grouping with an anchor and three pitons, near the route of the via feratta. The length is 30m and step grade 8(?!)

LC4 - Get on top of the pool above some rapids that lead us on a plate down where we have two anchors, then up a dihedral fell reaching a beetle light located to the right of a huge boulder. Get overhanging climbing and continue a few yards on a small chimney, coming out in the ridge where the regroup. As variants of the pool we can choose a anou after the rock or the anchor of the via ferrata. The length is 30m and maximum degree 6 to the beetle.
Information source
Cristi Popescu - http://totpedrum.blogspot.ro/2015/05/traseul-marian-4lc-8-6a1-cheile_31.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 11' 29.8" E 23° 45' 17.5"    
Access route: The trail starts at the 2 m to the right of the route Cezarica.
Retreat route: For withdrawal descends about 20m on the north side of ?ancului then crosses a small waist to the left until a small gap. The bottleneck goes on the other side coming down to the right through a sparse forest of birch. It does not descend fixed vertically because it gets to a break of slope located above the entrance in the Cave of Wimps. It goes diagonally left, descending until it enters a forest old and catch a trail well beaten us in five minutes at the alley's cobbled access to the cave.

Topo

Topo

Sursă Cristi Popescu
Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

Pictures


Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

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Map



GPS: N 45° 11' 29.8" E 23° 45' 17.5"    
Access route: The trail starts at the 2 m to the right of the route Cezarica.
Retreat route: For withdrawal descends about 20m on the north side of ?ancului then crosses a small waist to the left until a small gap. The bottleneck goes on the other side coming down to the right through a sparse forest of birch. It does not descend fixed vertically because it gets to a break of slope located above the entrance in the Cave of Wimps. It goes diagonally left, descending until it enters a forest old and catch a trail well beaten us in five minutes at the alley's cobbled access to the cave.

Equipment


Sursă Milea Iulian, Cornel Zarescu, Cristi Iacob, Dan Vasilescu

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