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Vâlcelul Grohotişului 1B
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 07.01.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 1B
Type: Alpine route

 În partea dreaptă Vâlcelul Grohotișului (văzut din Valea Bucșoiului). Sursă: Rupi 
Climb duration: 3 - 3,5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

Chimney

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The diary describes a mountain trail, unmarked, that leads into some of the passages are exposed, and dangerous, especially in bad weather, and that may require you to use some portion of the specific material of the rope. The approach to the route is a subjective thing and is related to the inspiration of the moment, without claiming to be the best way to do it.
I walked among the rocks on the bottom of the Valley Buc?oiului, and I've got a couple of skipjack tuna, small and lightweight, and which can be bypassed on the trail. Above, I'm jumping higher and get a little more difficult, until I'm left with a big chunk of rock in his hand. I just give up and go around to the passage on the footpath on the right. The walls are closing in, but, the valley of the don't ask yet the problems. Go around the right side is still a big rock, and then a smaller one, and the whole valley opens up into a sort of amphitheater in order to get out of the left side, in the sense that my movement of the first tributary, the Vâlcelul Porti?elor to where I'm going, too.
From where I sit, I don't guess it yet, the entrance to the vâlcelul Grohotisului, but I do know that you have to go up a little bit on the Vâlcelul Porti?elor. Above, find the intersection, hidden by a buttress covered with juniper trees. The onset of the it seems to me rather wiped off the face of the guy sitting next to him, who seemed more narrow and hard look at it this way.
Tried to get into the right gear the great stone blocking the entrance, and after that, the walls start closing in. However, the vâlcelul does not pose a problem for the time being, go directly to a pile of rocks, and the helpful, small, and ignoring the path that bypasses the one part that seems more complicated than that.
Keep up the thread, and I'll be there in a supportive, interesting, kind of a chute with a big rock stuck in the side of the top. The approach to the trough, which on the one hand, it's pretty washed out, I'll take a ?prai?, and I get on top of the rock. Next, a small step of the horizontal, after which the trough is continued for about 10 meters, but more gently this time.
Higher up, the valley opens out a little and keep the thread going around the wall to the left.
Next is a jumper with a cake consistency than ice, which makes me a little bit to try. Should be mentioned that the high jumper is optional, it can avoid the path that passes through the right side.
Gaining altitude, I'm going to see the Tower with the Low of an angle, very unique. Vâlcelul Grohotisului to deviate to the left, and moving away progressively from the leading edge of what separates us from the Valley of the Buc?oiului. And then get, decided over a series of rocks, which can be quite easy with a little bit of attention to it, or you can go around to the grass on the right.
Higher up, the valley opens out further and the trail becomes a little hazy in the vicinity of the Tower, with a Low. I come back up a little bit, and the trail pretty poorly defined, cut off the thread of the vâlcelului – perhaps it is the Girdle of the High Buc?oiului, if it is to follow the sketch in his book, Akin Said, and Nicholas's Wife.
Vâlcelul it is going to split into 2 threads. I choose the one on the left, and I'm in kind of a gully or chimney, wet, and slippery. A little higher up, on the left-hand wall, in the sense of ascent, see spintecatura steep edge of a small tributary, what it comes down to a few tens of feet below a small window. In the description of the route or the summary, which I found through the literature it does provide a helpful window. So far I haven't found another, but it can't be, for that the valley seems to be descending from the ridge that separates the vâlcelul I'm on a wired side of the Vâlcelului Porti?elor.
I keep climbing on to the gutter with my, which end is narrower and is sealed with a large boulder as cover. As a ramonaj of 4-5 meters on the right side, I get to the bottom of the chimney, and then keep a portion of the exposed, near vertical, on the grass.
I'm just trying to make the crossing to the right, towards the chest of the rock below, split vâlcelul the two. The slope is more subdued, and slightly above, get a trail I get on top of the wire to the right. Viewed from above, it looks a bit more friendly. I keep going to the right, taking out the target, a large corner of the rock. Get on the plane, I can tell by the marks in the ground that we have gone too far, because I'm getting close, and pretty much out of the Valley of the Buc?oiului.
Get up on the line by a small gap located on top of the corner and I'm guessing a mountain rather well-defined. I don't know of a single belt, so maybe it's just a trail of the chamois. Follow the path to the left until you get back on top of the wire, which I got originally in a room where the walls are close enough, taking on the appearance of a canyon. By the dodge on which I've done, I've avoided probably judging it difficult, or at least a portion of the display, but I can tell you that, wherever I went, I didn't do so hot. I'm looking for a trail on the stone steps, and end up in the talveg. I'll go up and get in the way of the chimney, the steps, the wet and the dark. Approach the chimney, although it can be bypass the original on the right on a ledge upward, and then the one on the left, and after crossing it on a stone slab, almost horizontal, situated halfway up the jumpers. The thin cool crust of ice, I do it to practice my positions of ballet here and there, but be careful they get on the horizontal platform. Here, the approach to the upper floor of the fire. I go on it up to the half of it, but the ice on the rock, it makes me not be able to move up the ladder. Go to the left, on the wall, and they end up in a grassy area, which you go up a little bit and get back to you in the thread above.
Immediately upstream is a thoughtful, difficult, and overhangta is blocking the way. In the sub-block of the stone which shut down the high jumper, and I see that everything around you is wet, or covered with a film of ice. I can't find the first key of the jumpers. The electrical sockets in the wall are quite small, and, in the vast majority of cases, very slippery. I leave the bag on the ground, and I'm trying to get up among the wall and the rock overhangt. I can't find the solution. I'm still deep in the trough, and the high ground, get a good grip with your right hand. I turned around and I could put my left foot on the wall. I put my right foot on a rock, I'm in a delicate state of equilibrium, the position is a pain in the ass. I'm leaning with the back of the stone, with one shoulder against the wall. I toss and turn for a few moments, time seems to be of a different size, right now. Takes forever to find a position that gives me the impression that it is more or less stable. Trying to move forward, do the steps are tiny and unsafe on account of the ice, and place it tight, it won't let you off the leash. Squeeze, it in the end to go through the hole and out of the wall. I'm doing a traverse of 1 m, a portion of the connection of the small water, keeping away from the areas where the ice has formed. Find a place where I could stop to take his backpack. Still have a bump, and boom, I'm top of the jumpers. This has been the most difficult, judging by the time of the competition.
Following the 2 or 3 obstacles, which are normally beyond through ?prai?, or the opposition, but today there are a lot more powerful due to the petecelor of the ice. Above, a new path, rather than a well-defined, which cut the thread of the vâlcelului. On top of this, a new thoughtful of you blocking the path. I undertake the initial steps of the rock on the left, and then, with a ?prai? pass through the obstacle.
Get on the line for another 20-30 yards and I get to meet a whole new mountain which cut off the valley and it's heading to the left towards the corner of the stone. Above it is a spring rather than a big tackle on the right-hand side, and then up a ridge rising abruptly in the midst of the river, and will split it into 2 threads. I'm still on the left-hand side. The thread started with a chimney, a small. Next, a high chimney, on which I speak from the outside, by means of a ?prai? wide. As I climb, I get closer gradually to the bottom of the chimney, and beyond, with attention to the last part of it, which is quite exposed.
Top of the jumpers, the valley seems to widen once again in a chaos of rocks, pravalite, and a little above, shall be divided into 2 strands. I choose the one on the left, because it seems like more of a wild man. Get what you get, and at some point I can see the edge of the fire, a trail weak. Cross over to the right, up a little bit, and I get to the bottom of the other thread. On the edge, it looks more round, so I'm going back to the attack of the wire on the left. It follows a chimney with a 2-storey building, divided by a horizontal platform. The approach of the first passage through the ?prai?, and by the side of the upper, through the wall to the left, up a little bit and get up on the platform. To the second floor, a little more difficult, you go beyond submitting a lot of effort.
Next, a portion where the wire is narrow, but not necessarily difficult, it's vâlcelului is filled with 1 to 2 obstacles you have to go through the ?prai?, and then the valley opens out into a funnel with the grass, quite steep, coming out of the Crest of the Dragon (Buc?oiul a Little), a little piece of the rock, located in the middle of the strungii in the lower Vâlcelul Grohotisului.


Information source
Mulţumim Marius Popescu (markbv) pentru descriere.
Jurnalul însoţit şi de imagini inserate în text:
http://www.carpati.org/jurnal/valcelul_grohotisului_si_creasta_balaurului_14_noiembrie_2015/3312/


Pictures


În partea dreaptă Vâlcelul Grohotișului (văzut din Valea Bucșoiului). Sursă: Rupi

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Diaries & links


  • 01.05.2013 Daniel Toader, Claudiu Craciun

În partea dreaptă Vâlcelul Grohotișului (văzut din Valea Bucșoiului). Sursă: Rupi

Users who climbed the route


Andrei Badea - 18.10.2020
- 18.10.2020Partial, pana în Brâul Mare
Alina Madalina Rosu - 04.03.2017
- 04.03.2017
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Iarna

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Equipment


În partea dreaptă Vâlcelul Grohotișului (văzut din Valea Bucșoiului). Sursă: Rupi

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