Tavanele 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 25.04.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Type: Classic route

 Tavanele (al doilea de stânga la dreapta). Sursă: Ionel Coman 
Length: 10 pitches
Climb duration: 6 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangRoofFace climbingCrack

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Roland Welkens, Ionel Coman, Liviu Munthiu
Date: 26.07.1958


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first length of the cord is run along the crack, over a series of hurdles of moderate difficulty, taking over from the height of a platform with grass.

2, l. C., approx. 30 km, starting with a cross from the right, which leads after 10 km on a side; we climb the flyover, at the end overhangnt by using one of the 2 pitons on the route, after crossing the 4 m to the right and go up a passage to the final of the 10 metres.

Considered to be the key of the track, the 3rd L. C. is carried out along a fissure with well-defined who takes over after 10 yards. From this point, we are going through a sloping front, and the lack of electrical outlets (approx. 3 m) up to the height of a crack, a climb as opposed, to a height of approx. 12. m. The further we go towards a crumbly, moving diagonally to the right, to the right of his waist is narrow and tapers out, that's a problem.

Over the course of a little chimney between the wall and the slab, high up, in the course of the 4th L. C., to the base of a face is strongly slanted. By using a series of plugs, large and well-embedded in the wall, climb through the obstacle, to the end that there's a problem.

5, l. C. it leads us under the grand ceiling made up of four overhangs of the staggered slant to the right. The following is a series of cracks, staple fibres, along which we move, using the escalate on the contrary, we can be in the right of the first overhangs. Since the passage of the rope through the hands across to the right side of a face, all wet and slippery, which is located below the first beetle, after we regrouped at the start of the 2 overhangs, having a support for a foot footrests.

Due to the 6 to the l. C., which go along the winding force us to give special attention to the passage of the cord through the carabiners, in order to avoid lock-in. Traversing under the cliffs of the 2-and 3-ends under the front that go up diagonally to the right until it is under the 4th of the beetle, which climbed the front of a carry out with the help of the scari?elor. On top of this obstacle, we follow the line of the crack high by approx. For 15 min, after which, by means of a passage to the right, we'll reconvene back on the platform.

Further on, the trail becomes less difficult, the obstacles are being carried out throughout the face in some grass, that measures approx. 100. In general, rock of this portion follows the line of the ridge leading to the summit, with a small deviation to the right or to the left. Rings from the insurance policy down the road makes the deciphering of the route.

The last reform to be carried out on the platform and narrow on the top of the Tower Malae?ti, where you climb the Route, the Ceiling is finished.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Nicolae Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
- Roland Welkens - Premiera alpina in Turnul Malaiesti, Almanah turistic 1960, p. 74-75

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 27' 15.6" E 25° 26' 59.4"    
Access route: From the point of junction of the trails V. Malae?ti—Cap of the Goats climbing through the debris with approx. 200 m, on the alluvial of the vâlcelului bordering the left side (as you look towards the wall of) the Tower of Malae?ti. Five to ten percent. 60 km before the mouth of the vâlcelului to distinguish from the left-hand edge of the Wall of the Central fissure, on some places covered with vegetation and sloped to the right, which marks the beginning of the Route for the Ceiling, which is common to that of the route the Far left side of the front Wall.
Retreat route: Just below the top of the tower, on the face of the watch toward the south, and is fixed to an anchor that we will use in order to come down with a refreshing, long, 20 m, and the thalweg of a valley. The descent continues all the way along up to the point where it is turning to the right. Here, in order to avoid the great in his diving, make a reminder, after which you'll hook up soon and the trail to the Valley Malae?ti.

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Topo

Tavanele

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Tavanele (al doilea de stânga la dreapta). Sursă: Ionel Coman

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Tavanele (al doilea de stânga la dreapta). Sursă: Ionel Coman

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Map



GPS: N 45° 27' 15.6" E 25° 26' 59.4"    
Access route: From the point of junction of the trails V. Malae?ti—Cap of the Goats climbing through the debris with approx. 200 m, on the alluvial of the vâlcelului bordering the left side (as you look towards the wall of) the Tower of Malae?ti. Five to ten percent. 60 km before the mouth of the vâlcelului to distinguish from the left-hand edge of the Wall of the Central fissure, on some places covered with vegetation and sloped to the right, which marks the beginning of the Route for the Ceiling, which is common to that of the route the Far left side of the front Wall.
Retreat route: Just below the top of the tower, on the face of the watch toward the south, and is fixed to an anchor that we will use in order to come down with a refreshing, long, 20 m, and the thalweg of a valley. The descent continues all the way along up to the point where it is turning to the right. Here, in order to avoid the great in his diving, make a reminder, after which you'll hook up soon and the trail to the Valley Malae?ti.

Equipment


Tavanele (al doilea de stânga la dreapta). Sursă: Ionel Coman

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