Faţa cu Ferestre 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 25.04.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Type: Classic route

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Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsChimneyLoose rocks

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: László Karácsonyi, Aurel Irimia
Date: 1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

In the course of the first l. C., in the thalweg, covered with rocks and cobble (sometimes it's covered up in the late spring with the snow) that enters at an angle to the base of the wall, turn to the right, and led, in part, on a distance of approx. 35 is a series of obstacles placed in the stage, and with the help of a pin, a passage overhangnt, and after that there's a problem.

From this point, it is drawn in the upper two feet wide with the crack in the right side of (a 2-l. C.), we'll go over the obstacles to her by climbing the free-way (35 feet), and after that there's a problem.

It is approx. 3 m. from the beginning of the 3rd L. C. there is a passage surplombeaza, on-the-go, with the help of 2 hands; cross over, then approx. 3 km to the right, and after that by means of a crack open up the ramonaj up at the end of the 40 yards of rope, regrupându us, and then, on a platform of a green roof.

In the formulae (4-l. C.), climbing, follow for approx. 20 is a passageway for a pitch middle that runs to the chimney a deep, through which the ramonam, and the platform is located 40 m from the start, we regrouped once again.

To continue climbing (5-to l. C.), we have, from this point, more and more opportunities, and we will follow the central route, the characteristics of which are staggered over a face that surplombeaza for the first 20 yards of it a few times, and end with a chimney is very much inclined, in which are secured the 3 hands of the insured; in the upper part of the chimney to meet the first step of the path by which we enter, and after that, it's a problem.

6. L. C. they also direct us to the right, after passing through the final chimney, along which we meet the second window; from here, going through the bolovani?uri what's coming off easily, we're going out to the ridge.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, N. Dimitriu, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 27' 15.6" E 25° 26' 59.4"    
Access route: The route is on the north wall of the Tower Malae?ti in the sidewall corresponding to the Valley of the Rocks. In general, the barriers can be crossed by rock-climbing, free; the windows through which we enter you in the course of climbing the most characteristic details of the process.

The course can be easily identified from the canyon bordering the great tower, at the northeast corner of the crack, which is a next (second from the right-to-left) with a very well-defined.
Retreat route: For the return we descent to the faces of the grass on the other side of the ridge (to the south), and then the thalweg of rock of Vâlcelului the Southern Hemisphere.

Thirty feet straight down to the point where it has a confluence point, with a valley coming from the left, we arrive at the edge of the broken slope. The anchor set on the left-hand side of the valley to make a rappel of 40 meters, and after that, through the detours are short, we'll be back in the Valley of the Malae?ti.

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GPS: N 45° 27' 15.6" E 25° 26' 59.4"    
Access route: The route is on the north wall of the Tower Malae?ti in the sidewall corresponding to the Valley of the Rocks. In general, the barriers can be crossed by rock-climbing, free; the windows through which we enter you in the course of climbing the most characteristic details of the process.

The course can be easily identified from the canyon bordering the great tower, at the northeast corner of the crack, which is a next (second from the right-to-left) with a very well-defined.
Retreat route: For the return we descent to the faces of the grass on the other side of the ridge (to the south), and then the thalweg of rock of Vâlcelului the Southern Hemisphere.

Thirty feet straight down to the point where it has a confluence point, with a valley coming from the left, we arrive at the edge of the broken slope. The anchor set on the left-hand side of the valley to make a rappel of 40 meters, and after that, through the detours are short, we'll be back in the Valley of the Malae?ti.

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