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Muchia dintre Ţimbale (din Şaua Caprelor) (The edge of the Cymbals (from the Saddle to the Goats)) 2A
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added by Ad Rian la data de 01.12.2015
edited by Ad Rian la data de 22.09.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 2A
Rotpunkt grade: 5-
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Linie traseu. Sursă: Rupi 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Length: 4 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsRidgeGrassLoose rocksPitons and hammer

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1 - Regrouping on a brâni?a under the wall with a anou at a time. The first 5-6 km straight up, then obliquely to the right. Insurance at mobile and an hourglass. It passes on the slope ?ancului from the Valley of the Bridges, reaching belay station where there is still a python. Length 55 m.

LC 2 - Step length is the departure of the right oblique. Insurance at mobile. Once it comes up it continues a few metres on the grass, then on a chimneyule?. Regrouping on the spot at a time, with a anou great and friend in a crack good. Length 35 m.

LC 3 - down on the grass in a bottleneck. Regrouping on the mobile. Length quite mild, with a python at the exit and the one with the ring on the ridge.
Then continue on foot on the ridge, where we meet a python guy P. They get a vârfule? and descends into the mountain pass that crosses the Girdle Upper.

LC 4 - Is the most difficult part of the route. Insurance at mobile. Go straight 2 km and then slightly left 2-3 rapids, and then on one side small crosses all slightly left and then up. It stands on the tip of the grass and down a little bit on the other side, where they regroup with a anou to a time and a nut in a crack. Length 40 m.

Then raise the rope and to the Top of the Cymbals, where we meet mark ridge (PR), get up on your feet on the grass and through juniper trees.

Description Walter Kargel - the Road to the heights (1987):
The edge that separates the Padina's Caline? of the Valley of the Bridges be up above the Brîului of the Middle and culminates in the Top of the Cymbals, the North Ridge of piatra Craiului. Climb full start so from the Girdle Ciorînga Great. The route described by Dunareanu, however, start from Strunga Goats, adîncita in the middle of the edge. After getting through the jnepeni?, get to the base of an upper rocky, which escalates directly or go on around to the left, where a vîlcel provides the opportunity to return to the ridge, above the face, in a bottleneck. After the direct passage of the two vertices separated by another gap, crossing the face of the Valley Bridges to return on the ridge line in the fourth gap of the edge, thereby bypassing the most difficult obstacle. From here you can climb with no other problems until the Top of the Cymbals, where it meets the ce marking of the ridge red dot.
Return to Plaiul Foii can be done most easily on the trail the Valley Bridges - Strunga Goats - Vîlcelul Goats - the Girdle of the Middle.
Information source
Text, poze - Rupi
Walter Kargel - Drumuri spre culmi (1987)

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Plaiul Foii - marked route TR (combined or not with the Yellow/Chimney Sandy) - Adapatoarea Goats - Scale Iron - Girdle of the Middle - Vâlcelul Goats (besides his Finger Caline?) - Saddle Goat.
Vâlcelul is quite brittle, they get more on the slope of the right - the rock, grass, juniper trees.
From the Saddle the Goats get to the wall first through the pines, and then follows a small rocky area, again juniper trees and stands in a brâni?a.
Retreat route: 1. Down on the Valley of the Bridges and:
a. after the booster over a high jumper with the alveoli, it comes out on the left towards the Girdle of the Middle - Thermopylae - Poiana Co?ofenei - Plaiul Foii (unmarked);
b. it keeps the thread from the right (the one near the edge on which I climbed) and then they get up in Saddle Goat and descends on the route of access (Vâlcelul Goats - the Girdle of the Middle - Scale Iron (unmarked) - Adapatoarea Goats - the Shores of the Yellow/Chimney Sandy/trail marked TR - Plaiul Foii);
2. It climbs up the north ridge (marked PR), it goes to the left towards the Peak. Sharp, down on vâlcelul Canyon Ciorânga (in addition to the Edge with the Window, at first on the left and then cross the edge over juniper) - to the left on the Girdle of above - the Needle from the Pulpit - Vâlcelul with Rhododendron - Vâlcelul with Window (can descatara full or rapela, depending on moisture)- marked route TR - ref. Hopes - Adapatoarea Goats - Plaiul Foii.

Pictures


Linie traseu. Sursă: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries



Linie traseu. Sursă: Rupi

User who climbed the route


Ad Rian - 02.07.2016, Vara
Hotul - 02.07.2016, Vara
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Iarna

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



Access route: Plaiul Foii - marked route TR (combined or not with the Yellow/Chimney Sandy) - Adapatoarea Goats - Scale Iron - Girdle of the Middle - Vâlcelul Goats (besides his Finger Caline?) - Saddle Goat.
Vâlcelul is quite brittle, they get more on the slope of the right - the rock, grass, juniper trees.
From the Saddle the Goats get to the wall first through the pines, and then follows a small rocky area, again juniper trees and stands in a brâni?a.
Retreat route: 1. Down on the Valley of the Bridges and:
a. after the booster over a high jumper with the alveoli, it comes out on the left towards the Girdle of the Middle - Thermopylae - Poiana Co?ofenei - Plaiul Foii (unmarked);
b. it keeps the thread from the right (the one near the edge on which I climbed) and then they get up in Saddle Goat and descends on the route of access (Vâlcelul Goats - the Girdle of the Middle - Scale Iron (unmarked) - Adapatoarea Goats - the Shores of the Yellow/Chimney Sandy/trail marked TR - Plaiul Foii);
2. It climbs up the north ridge (marked PR), it goes to the left towards the Peak. Sharp, down on vâlcelul Canyon Ciorânga (in addition to the Edge with the Window, at first on the left and then cross the edge over juniper) - to the left on the Girdle of above - the Needle from the Pulpit - Vâlcelul with Rhododendron - Vâlcelul with Window (can descatara full or rapela, depending on moisture)- marked route TR - ref. Hopes - Adapatoarea Goats - Plaiul Foii.

Equipment


Linie traseu. Sursă: Rupi

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