Today we celebrate 1 year since Muchia din dreapta Vaii lui Ivan (Valea lui Ivan) first ascent, 51 years since Hornul Mare-Negru (Bucura II - Peretele Nord-Estic) first ascent, 65 years since Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent

Feţele din Stânga Lirei 5B, (6+/7-, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 12.11.2015
edited by Andrei Badea la data de 04.10.2018

General characteristics

Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6+/7-
Aid climbing grade: A1
Type: Classic route

 Feţele din Stânga Lirei 
Accommodation: Speranţelor (Hopes) Refuge
Orientation: N-W
Length: 6 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
Best months:


Access Natural Park Piatra CraiuluiPitonsCams/NutsFace climbingCrackChimneyTreesPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Cornel Zarescu, Marius Barbu
Date: 06.08.2012
Story: Link

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC1: it Is trivial, climb up a chimney very easy. There is a single piton rusty and bent, they can ensure that the juniper trees if desired. We left slightly upward, and regroup on a wider one, that of juniper trees, at the base of the cracks.

LC2: A cliffhanger is not very easy, on an area with some grass, where there are 2 pitons. Above we have a face down with grass and the first face flushed from the trail. After an area of short grass find an hourglass that ensure a anou. On the left is a crack where you can mount frienduri. The above out on a face fallen. Keep everything on a face, fallen, easy, where to find a python, then get a wider one, that of juniper trees.

LC3: Length of the next start over a plate spaced from the wall, over which you can place frienduri somewhere in the right. Follow the flushed face, in a kind of trough with water outlets and a few meters further up we find a python. Continue on a trough like the one on the bottom, but with fewer outlets. We can climb directly over the ceiling at a clump of juniper trees, but it's not so interesting. Ask a friend and get oriented to the left, avoiding ceilings and walk out to the juniper through the side. Follow a front down where I regroup a few meters above.

LC4: It goes slightly left, then right, to a beautiful arcade. Make sure with mobile, then a python in arch just at the point where you can climb directly up (continued on arcade leads on a face flushed where you kinda get stuck). Above is a wider one, that the sea on which it stands even in the right pool of “Crack Yellow”. Continue on brâna in right up to the pool, consisting of two cams.

LC5: the Length of the start vertical above the pool, over a boulder with plugs good, but that sounds kind of weird. Continue right, crossing to a crack oblique with plenty of grass. Find 2 hourglasses in which ensure. It follows a area grassy. Continue on to a vertical crack where you can put your mobile, then we have a piton with a ring. Continue up to a “pi”. In the window ensure the following python thin, sheet metal of the stirrup catch an outlet on the right side and out of the passage.
Above is a wider one, that, around to the right, some juniper trees and I regroup at the end of the 30 metres of rope in a piton in the Crack Yellow and some frienduri.

LC6: We turn to the right, on the edge of what seems easy. The passages are not quite as they seemed from the bottom, secure with nuts, find a few pitons. Anything above is the route to tame it, and get over piton in the Crack Yellow. We continue the last few meters are common (still two pitons in the Crack Yellow) to the top of juniper trees and finish the length with the strings stretched, bringing together at a piton with a ring crooked.
Information source -

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: From the Chalet Plaiul Foii go on tourist's mark red triangle to the Refuge of Hopes and then continue on the same marking on the Girdle Ciorânga up cross Canyon Ciorânga.



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GPS: N 45° 32' 51.3" E 25° 13' 19.8"    
Access route: From the Chalet Plaiul Foii go on tourist's mark red triangle to the Refuge of Hopes and then continue on the same marking on the Girdle Ciorânga up cross Canyon Ciorânga.


Feţele din Stânga Lirei