Today we celebrate 84 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent

Traversarea Acelor Morarului (Colţii Morarului) (The Crossing Of The Needles Of The Prince (The Fangs Of The Prince)) 2A, 4
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (173)
  • Video (7)
  • Map
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Andrei Badea la data de 28.07.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 2A
Rotpunkt grade: 4
Quickdraws: Eight
Type: Alpine route

 Traversarea Acelor Morarului (Colţii Morarului) 
Length: 6 pitches
Climb duration: 4 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsRidgeGrassLoose rocksRecommendedFantasticRopeAbseil

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail was much easier and in the air. You don't need the shoes for rock climbing. The free climbing is not over, nowhere the 4 th degree. You can go with a jump rope a minimum of 50 meters away, about 8 or 9 loops, if you want to make sure all of the rings. The trail can go in the other direction, but there is a need for shoes for the climb on the stations of the Cross (there are 2 cams for the insurance).



The tip of the Needle is Greater, it descends slightly, and then horizontally 5 meters, which is where you start the actual rock. Is there a department where you can anchor, the first mate.


LK 1: First, you can sidestep to the left, or to overtake on the straight. Continue on the ridge, ensuring a clean that's moving (but it would probably take a hypothetical downturn, they are trac?ionate on the opposite direction to which they were set). We meet up after about 40 m to a pool at the 2 hands with the rope. If we have a string of 60m, and we are willing to go to 15-20m at same time, go, or come back here. 40, level 2



LK 2: Continue on the ridge, ensuring a clean, good, this time. Reform, on a platform high in the 2 hands with the rope. 40 class 2-a


If you have 2 ropes, a minimum of 50m, do 1 booster, if you have one single core 2 or 3 boosts (there are 3 booster stations). If you have the experience and the shoes what I don't slip on the grass, we can desca?ara to think anything of it until the last stop of the booster, and then, with a single rappel down there.



LC-3: a Detour on the left of the Needle to the Red, to the first variant of The (which is strongly recommended to have the shoes), and then after another 10-15 yards away in the grass, starting to get up on the part of the less inclined. We meet on the road about 2 hands. Regroup, be in a to return, or 2 hands with a rope. If you're not willing to let go of 10-15 m at once, we can keep going, or be able to talk. 45 m grade 3


LK 4: Overcoming a small obstacle (a vertical crack), and then 10m off the ground very easily, then you still have a leak on the left side with 2-3 cams. There is also an option on the right side, where we ramonaj. Grouped under the the top to the 2 pitons to the rope. Climb 5m to the top of the actual where there is a box with a book. The book is new (9-10 years old), but the tradition of that little black book at the top dates from the 1930's. 35m, grade 4-


If you have 2 ropes, do 1 booster, or 2 boosts. We continue on a slope of grass, to just below the Tip of the Avoided (or the Needle is Extended). It is, in general, it is around the corner. If you want to get up to it there are only 4-5m of the climb back up, then be desca?arare with attention to all the places I've boarded, or we will be a refreshing short, after a bunch of cords (to check their condition very carefully!). At the base of the ascent starts on the foot of the Cross.


LK 5: there Are 2 options, either we go directly to the ridge (class 4, no cams, the insurance anou, after the tank, but it's very beautiful, and in the air, there is a need for caution, and a little bit of experience), or through a wider one, that of the grass to the left, and then up the crack (you have clean). Both sides will go in a small saddle, from here, up the stairs from the ground to the summit. We also have a pool intermediate-if you feel like it. The top rebounder, with anou as a rock, or is it going simultaneously at 10 m and forming the other end of the Needle guard, to a hospital. 50, level 4
The tradition of the stations of the cross on the Pin dates back to the 18th of august 1929, which was built by the C. Porte, C. Taflan and the Host Both (the Pretty) in loving memory of Niki's Pretend, for a dead man in 1928. The cross was replaced, on 18 October 1983 by the C., Porte, Jr. and to The Database.



It gives me a booster, short of the 20 meters down to the base of the Needle to the Top.


LK 6: the climb up the steps to the ground and the grass. It brings together high up in the ridge to a pin on the right hand side, easily camouflaged by the breach.

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 26' 45.8" E 25° 28' 42.2"    
Access route: Get off the beaten tourist track tape, in the Valley of the Deer. It's up in the world of the circus, where on the right we got a brânp wide, and under a few walls and towers. This is the Girdle of the Great Prince, that we're going to the level curve by the time you reach the crest of the math that separates the V. Deer V. Miller. Keep going for 20-30m on this west side, the Miller, and we'll be in the top, making loops through the patches of juniper trees. Keep math top of the ridge, cross the Ridge of Sharp (air force, you won't need the rope) and go up the last slope of grass, what do we get at the beginning of the Needle is Great. Here, we can begin to get in gear.
Retreat route: There are 3 options.


1. Keep the crasta up to the Top of the Man (the last spur of rock, from the front, go around to the right-hand side, with V. Miller).
2. Continuing on the ridge up on the ridge in front. From there, we descend down the west side, the Stag, the one pulled wide the grass, about 100 to 150 m difference in floor level of up to a cave (on the right-hand side as we go down). From there, keep in the right-hand side of the mountains, still a 50 m difference in floor level of up to a saddle with a bunch of low dry (crackpots). Turn right and go down a sluice box a lot more narrow, and then (after approximately 100 meters difference in level) is observed for a path that's keeping the curve of the level, you move around a shape that looks like an easter egg. Continue on the path that leads to the tourist trail of the V of the Deer, up a little from where I had left it in the shower.



3. In the winter it can go down either the Valley of the Deep (which is done immediately after the Teeth of the Prince), or in the next valley over in the spur in the front, and out in the bottom of the Valley of the Prince.


Pictures


Traversarea Acelor Morarului (Colţii Morarului)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 25.07.2019 Loredana Sucu, Dan Balan
  • 01.07.2017 Alin R., Andrei K., Maria L. etc.
  • 06.08.2016 Mugurel I., Andrei B.
  • 02.08.2015 Mugurel, Zelma
  • 09.06.2012 Daniel Toader, Bogdan N
  • 29.10.2011 Tudor, Adrian
  • 30.08.2011 Tudor, Petru
  • 22.07.2011 Cristi Popescu, Angelica Ion, Mihai etc.
  • 22.07.2011 Vlad, Petru, Tudor
  • 09.07.2011 Daniel Negoita, Gabriela Gomoi
  • 09.07.2011 Mugurel Ilie, Valentina, Adrian C.
  • 19.06.2011 Daniel Negoita, Florin Sain, Gabriel Gomoi
  • 17.06.2011 Tudor P.
  • 28.05.2011 Sergiu, Ciprian
  • 21.05.2011 David, Ana, Costin
  • 18.01.2011 Mugur etc.
  • 13.11.2010 Tudor, Marius
  • 24.10.2010 Andrei Done, Andrei, Ruxache
  • 18.09.2010 Gabi Colea, Monica, Mihai etc.
  • 04.09.2010 Mihai Cernat, Oana C.
  • 22.08.2010 Mihai Cernat, Gabi Postole

Traversarea Acelor Morarului (Colţii Morarului)

Users who climbed the route


Andrei Badea - 29.09.2019, Vara
- 29.09.2019
Andrei Badea - 14.09.2019, Vara
- 14.09.2019
Andrei Badea - 25.07.2019, Vara
- 25.07.2019Acul Mare & Degetul Rosu
Adrian Scurtu - 29.09.2018, Vara
- 29.09.2018
Andrei - 08.09.2018
- 08.09.2018
Mihai Barbu - 08.09.2018
- 08.09.2018
Adrian Scurtu - 11.08.2018, Vara
- 11.08.2018
Andrei Badea - 11.08.2018, Vara
- 11.08.2018
Andrei Badea - 05.08.2018, Vara
- 05.08.2018Doar Acul Mare si Degetul Rosu
Lucian Apostu - 05.11.2017, Iarna
- 05.11.2017
Alexander Edelweiss - 10.09.2017
- 10.09.2017
FeOOH - 04.08.2017
- 04.08.2017
Andrei Badea - 04.08.2017
- 04.08.2017
Victor Anica - 04.08.2017, Vara
- 04.08.2017
Adi Min - 01.10.2016, Vara
- 01.10.2016
mihaelat - 01.10.2016, Vara
- 01.10.2016
Adrian Scurtu - 15.09.2016
- 15.09.2016
Andrei Badea - 06.08.2016, Vara
- 06.08.2016https://goo.gl/photos/u7WS714CooBK9fu79
Szabolcs-Csaba Boloni - 04.10.2015, Vara
- 04.10.2015
Andrei - 28.04.2013, Vara
- 28.04.2013
Andrei - 26.08.2012
- 26.08.2012
Andrei - 07.07.2012, Vara
- 07.07.2012
Dimitrie Manole - 07.07.2012, Vara
- 07.07.2012
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Vara
Cristian Popescu - 01.01.1900, Vara
Alexandru Anton - 01.01.1900, Vara
Alina Madalina Rosu - 01.01.1900
Andrei Dumitrache - 01.01.1900

Users who wish to climb the route


Andrei Vlad
DorinB

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 01.06.2018

Video - costin miu - 30.10.2017

Video - Mihai Sava - 16.10.2017

Video - Silviu Stan - 28.09.2016

Video - Radu Ciofringeanu - 11.08.2016

Video - Alpintrek - Club Montan Ploiesti - 02.08.2013

Video - Silviu Stan - 13.06.2010

Map



GPS: N 45° 26' 45.8" E 25° 28' 42.2"    
Access route: Get off the beaten tourist track tape, in the Valley of the Deer. It's up in the world of the circus, where on the right we got a brânp wide, and under a few walls and towers. This is the Girdle of the Great Prince, that we're going to the level curve by the time you reach the crest of the math that separates the V. Deer V. Miller. Keep going for 20-30m on this west side, the Miller, and we'll be in the top, making loops through the patches of juniper trees. Keep math top of the ridge, cross the Ridge of Sharp (air force, you won't need the rope) and go up the last slope of grass, what do we get at the beginning of the Needle is Great. Here, we can begin to get in gear.
Retreat route: There are 3 options.


1. Keep the crasta up to the Top of the Man (the last spur of rock, from the front, go around to the right-hand side, with V. Miller).
2. Continuing on the ridge up on the ridge in front. From there, we descend down the west side, the Stag, the one pulled wide the grass, about 100 to 150 m difference in floor level of up to a cave (on the right-hand side as we go down). From there, keep in the right-hand side of the mountains, still a 50 m difference in floor level of up to a saddle with a bunch of low dry (crackpots). Turn right and go down a sluice box a lot more narrow, and then (after approximately 100 meters difference in level) is observed for a path that's keeping the curve of the level, you move around a shape that looks like an easter egg. Continue on the path that leads to the tourist trail of the V of the Deer, up a little from where I had left it in the shower.



3. In the winter it can go down either the Valley of the Deep (which is done immediately after the Teeth of the Prince), or in the next valley over in the spur in the front, and out in the bottom of the Valley of the Prince.

Equipment


Quickdraws: Eight
Cams and nuts: Eight
Additional equipment: Eight
Traversarea Acelor Morarului (Colţii Morarului)

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