Today we celebrate 61 years since Trandafirul Negru (Peretele Mare din Padina Popii) first ascent

Colţul Moşului 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 14.11.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Type: Classic route

 Colţul Moşului 
Length: 4 pitches
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsChimney

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emilian Cristea, László Karácsonyi, Petre Cristina
Date: 1960


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is on the eastern slope of the Ridge ?ancurilor, between Vâlcelul ?ancurilor and the Valley of the Ravine the Snow (to the west).

Corner Santa, the form of a massive monolith, crowned by a platform tab, can be identified easily, him being the second peak, from the bottom up, which decorates the Edge of the ?ancurilor.

The route (the first L. C.) start of the thalweg Vâlcelul ?ancurilor, with the detail characteristic of a rift striaza wall oblique to the left, on whose go climb a chimney and a few passages moves, after which we'll regroup on a small platform, green roof. For an easier advance of the head of the string is indicated to perform on this portion a belay station intermediate at the base of the chimney we meet at approx. 17 m from the starting.

Portion the 2nd of the L. C. starts with a climb through the opposition along a fissure opened up approx. 12 km and take the end under a beetle.
From this point run to the right a passage through the "opposition", by giving approx. 3 m beneath the great ceiling of the surplombei, until at the base of a chimney closed and vertically ; escalate it leads us after approx. 20 m on a small girdle; from here, climbing up to 5 m in diagonal to the right, meet a python booster, where we regroup. (We note that this serves for the descent from the trail, he performed the second booster.)

In the 3-to L. C. we continue climbing through the opposition, after which we enter into a chimney along which the ramonam uninsured, up to the point where surplombeaza. With the help of 4 hands go straight this beetle and move forward then vertical, until the base of the blocks rocky ruin, where we regroup.

In the last L. C. (4) climb up these blocks at the front, after which we follow a dihedral what is clogging under huge overhangs that block the exit at the top. Around them on the right, we reach soon the platform corner, after we leave behind the first clumps of juniper trees, which precede the exit to the ridge.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism, N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1961
Bucegi Turism Alpinism Ed a 2-a, rev. și adăugită
 - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964; 
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, București, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access duration: 3 hours
Retreat route: Lowering the uninsured on the opposite slope of the peak, to V. the Ravine the Snow, get after it. 6 m in front of a small mound of boulders, lifted for an easier identification of the python that we will use for the carrying out of the first booster.
It measures 30 m and drive in the mountain pass between the Corner of Santa and nose have anything to do Retezat mountains, located in the right (as you look towards the Ravine the Snow).

After the recovery of the rope-move approx. 20 m on the girdle turf which heat the horizontal Upper Santa (highlights: larch, juniper), coming out on the face of the Vâlcelului ?ancurilor, python remembered in the course of climbing the 2, L. C.; by a booster of 40 m back in the thalweg Vâlcelului ?ancurilor, and from here, along the broad belt of Blooming, in the Valley of Miller's.
Retreat duration: 3 hours

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Retreat route: Lowering the uninsured on the opposite slope of the peak, to V. the Ravine the Snow, get after it. 6 m in front of a small mound of boulders, lifted for an easier identification of the python that we will use for the carrying out of the first booster.
It measures 30 m and drive in the mountain pass between the Corner of Santa and nose have anything to do Retezat mountains, located in the right (as you look towards the Ravine the Snow).

After the recovery of the rope-move approx. 20 m on the girdle turf which heat the horizontal Upper Santa (highlights: larch, juniper), coming out on the face of the Vâlcelului ?ancurilor, python remembered in the course of climbing the 2, L. C.; by a booster of 40 m back in the thalweg Vâlcelului ?ancurilor, and from here, along the broad belt of Blooming, in the Valley of Miller's.

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Colţul Moşului

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