Creasta Centrală 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.09.2014
edited by Ad Mini la data de 01.12.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Quickdraws: Twenty five
Type: Classic route

 Creasta Centrală 
Orientation: S
Length: 8 pitches
Altitude: 1550 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 5 - 6 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsGrassLoose rocksNot recommendedDangerousPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Aurel Irimia, Emilian Cristea, Matei Schenn, Petre Cristina
Date: 1961


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail takes you, in the course of the 8 lengths of rope, on both sides (east and south-west) of the edge of what is defined in the zone of inflection of the Wall the yelling Large.

Bypassing in good part the vegetation, the large blocks rocky and the faces of cracked, the course presents the character of a itinerary classic ca?aratura.

Once in the zone of inflection of the wall, at the point where trailul begins to descend to the southwest, we observe on the right, even on the ridge, a sluice box grassy, sloping obliquely to the left.

In the course of the first L. C. get this pulled, reaching, after 25 m, in the right - of zade, where we regroup.

2 L. C. passes over a series of obstacles arranged in steps moves. Their sequence, but especially the climbing which is performed obliquely to the left, stumbling somewhat on the climber. After this passage, we leave the ridge line and through a traverse to the right out on the east face of the wall, where we'll regroup at the end of 40 metres of rope.

From here we climb up front (a 3-to L. C.), with a slight tendency towards the left, his face slightly green roof of the wall, heading towards a larch tree high, which is based on the regroup.

To avoid an obstacle devoid of cracks, at the beginning of the 4th L. C. climbing up a small wall, and after 4-5 km we continue the advance by climbing free, along a passage verlical, with plugs solid, which ends after 40 m on a platform narrow, punctuated by a spruce isolated.

The obstacles of the ridge, becoming from this point inaccessible, execute in the course of the 5th L. C., a traverse to the left, in the length of 40 m, having as a landmark the ultimate large cracks blocked by the overhangs, what fucks up the front upper part of the wall.

6 L. C. it measures 40 m and follows a vertical crack very open; on the way, due to the small overhangs and passages free of plugs, we make slight changes of direction, without deviating too much from the line of the fissure.

In the 7-to L. C. we follow the same rift, whose upper portion is slicing a beetle of large proportions, under which we regroup.

The last L. C. (8) starts with a short pass to the left, after that climb the front face strongly inclined, using up to the ridge, a series of pitons tubular, fixed on the route.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Nomenclatorul traseelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 21.7" E 25° 30' 25.8"    
Access route: Access is from the Logs on the trail Schiel Valley Howlers to the point "Tables" (on the tourist route blue triangle). From there, a trail around to the left Edge of the Howlers, lead at the base of this wall the southern.
Access duration: 2 hours
Retreat route: On the tip of the forest, where the climb ends, we orient ourselves towards the north, following the ridge, partly wooded, up in the Road Howling.
Retreat duration: 2 hours

Topo

Topo

Creasta Centrală

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Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 21.7" E 25° 30' 25.8"    
Access route: Access is from the Logs on the trail Schiel Valley Howlers to the point "Tables" (on the tourist route blue triangle). From there, a trail around to the left Edge of the Howlers, lead at the base of this wall the southern.
Retreat route: On the tip of the forest, where the climb ends, we orient ourselves towards the north, following the ridge, partly wooded, up in the Road Howling.

Equipment


Rope: 2 half ropes
Quickdraws: Twenty five
Cams and nuts: Twenty five
Additional equipment: Twenty five
Creasta Centrală

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