Creasta Arpăşelului (parcurgere E-V) 3A
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added by Ad Min la data de 09.11.2014
edited by Andrei Badea la data de 03.08.2020

General characteristics

Classic grade: 3A
Mandatory grade: 3c/3c+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă foto: Mihai Dăițoiu 
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 


5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsRidgeLoose rocksRecommendedFantasticChainRopeAbseil

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ruppert Schmauz, F. A. Friedsmann, V. Kravietzky
Date: 10.1912
First winter ascent: Alexandru Floricioiu, Tudor Hurbean
Date: 27.04.1959

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The start of the Ridge Fauna is started with a down slash to the left. We'll be there in a little gap, and we find the Obelisk (the Sentinel Arpa?elului), a beautiful pin from the hard rock stabbing the sky.
Potecu?a around to the left and stops in front of the Ears of Rabbits, the two towers and cliffs, which is the meaning of the road we climb up on the faces of the east and rapeleaza on the west. The climb on the Ear, the east (the east face of the well) is the lack of any major technical difficulties. However, the first one is represented by the ascendant left-wing, a front inclined, clean, close, smooth, if wet, require special attention. There are three hands nailed: down in a mountain pass, where it started, and two more in the next 6m. Then you climb the falls in difficulty, although the exposure is not significant, and after 6 to 7 meters from the last pin is reached on the top of the Ear to the east.
Above and to the right, as soon as I got here, two cams connected with the multiple cords, since this is the booster in the opposite direction of the scroll on the front just up from us. For our return we'll walk 5 meters to the west, to a first wire made of steel. The last 2-3m of it coming down, and find the right one on the left (south) is the return to the mountain pass between the Ears (Spintecatura of the Rabbit), and a chain is handsomely anchored by two expansion bolts. The rappel of about 15 yards off the Ear of the east drive, at the bottom of the wall, almost straight up, I don't live in a gash right across it, so as we might have expected, but a few yards to the south, and just below it, down a chute that you climb up, quickly, and without much difficulty, and after retrieving the rope. Along the wall that goes into the booster to meet the 3 expansion bolts, useful for climbing, and the path in the opposite direction.
Once we're in the Spintecatura the hair, make sure spitul of existing in here and we'll start climbing to the Ear of the next, from the West, on the east face. This is a short length under 10 m, and the start to a traverse left a few metres away and then return at the right of the vertical line. Right away there is a department to which they are attached to another steel cable that will climb up a few metres of easy way to the top. Here, the wire is bound to be a few hands where they were, and a link for quick help. I don't get, however, here a string. At the exact same height, 2 feet to the south, following the edge of the new point of the booster, which is a chain fastened to the expansion bolts. The descent to the western side of the Ears, the west is made up of two boosters. The second rappel is about 30 m lower down, a little bit of the right side, and it's still a chain.

We are heading towards the last hurdle in the path of the ridge, boosting the long one on the Top of the Door. The ridge goes up and down, passing through the Saddle of the one in the Middle, giving the parts accessible, in the grasslands of the south, interspersed with a couple pieces of rock nearly straight up at 50 m, the thin and even sharp in some places, in the form of a sharp blade to the horizontal. Here and there, the more we can see beating them in a pin.
The point of the tool on the Top of the Door's chain got caught in the expansion bolts. You can come down from a dose of 45 m or 2 shorter in length. In order to have a chance at pulling the strings, the latter will perform the two boosts, the first one ended after about 20 meters into a pool of intermediate, which is equipped with a chain, which is the bottom of a beetle. The second rappel takes us out into the valley on the right, a little of the eaves of the stone. For a better retrieval of the string, go up the slope on the opposite and shoot from there.
Information source
Mihai Dăiţoiu -
Ilie Fratu, Andrei Beleaua, Octavian Fratu - Pe custurile fagarasene, Editura pentru Turism, 1991
Marilena Clenciu, Între cer și pământ, Munții Carpați, Anul IV, 2000, nr. 21, pag. 47, 49, 74-77

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 36' 13.7" E 24° 38' 39.7"    


Sursă foto: Mihai Dăițoiu

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it

Diaries & links

Sursă foto: Mihai Dăițoiu

Users who climbed the route

Andrei Badea - 03.08.2021, Vara
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Mihaela Bacea - 25.07.2021, Vara
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Marius P - 25.07.2021, Vara
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Adriana Capov - 21.08.2020
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Andrei Badea - 01.08.2020, Vara
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Dorin Bernat - 11.07.2020, Vara
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Simona Bostaca - 11.07.2020, Vara
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Mitrut Arghir - 26.10.2019, Vara
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Victor Anica - 26.10.2019, Vara
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Mitrut Arghir - 26.10.2019, Vara
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Victor Anica - 26.10.2019, Vara
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Victor Jalbă-Șoimaru - 26.10.2019, Vara
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Adrian Scurtu - 20.10.2019, Vara
- 20.10.2019
Andrei Badea - 07.09.2019, Vara
- 07.09.2019
Andrei Badea - 17.08.2019, Vara
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Dorin Cristea - 21.07.2019, Vara
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Lepitsch  - 04.08.2018, Vara
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Constantinescu Anita - 01.07.2018, Vara
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Alexander Edelweiss - 01.07.2018, Vara
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Marius P - 10.09.2016, Vara
- 10.09.2016
sabina.d - 20.10.2013
- 20.10.2013
Bianca Bilt - 01.01.1900

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it

Video - Codrii - 15.07.2021

Video - Back to Nature - 10.08.2020

Video - Urucu Marius - 23.10.2019

Video - Alexander - 01.07.2018

Video - Adelin Udeanu - 20.08.2017

Video -  Bianca Bilt  - 22.09.2016

Video - Bogdan Boja - 05.07.2014


GPS: N 45° 36' 13.7" E 24° 38' 39.7"    


Sursă foto: Mihai Dăițoiu