Diedrul Mare (The Two-Flat Large) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 09.11.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 24.05.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 4B
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: Silvia Murgescu 
Length: 5-6 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsCams/NutsDihedralLoose rocksPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dan Florescu, Andrei Beleaua
Date: 05.09.1987

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is harder than the Edge of the Sea. The difficulties are given by the lack of insurance fixed, the lack of pools and the friability of the rock. To safely navigate the route is in need of a hammer, pitons, as well as mobile (frienduri, nuts).

LC1 - Has an easy step after that can see only one piton on the route from which are hung multiple cords.
LC2 - Start on one side with grass and rock washed away, here there is no insurance option; after this step is a climb as on a valley quite easy; we regrouped on a wider one, that of the right diedrului.
LC3 - Start with a climbing mixed, quite difficult, sockets relatively good, but very friable and without the option of insurance , barely after 6-7 km we find a small crack to a nut (I used offsetul of the DMM and friendul #1 from the BD, still friend-ups up to size 1 are welcome), the route continues up to a beetle, but not having insurance or good places of location of the insurance I have decided to retire.
Information source
Poză: Silvia Murgescu - http://www.silvique.ro/2012/01/2012-01-01-muchia-coltului-balaceni-5b-8lc.html
Descriere - Anita Constantinescu
Interviu John in revista Alpin Extrem


Sursă: Silvia Murgescu

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Sursă: Silvia Murgescu

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Sursă: Silvia Murgescu