Today we celebrate 80 years since Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) (Umărul Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 85 years since Brâna Aeriană - Creasta Văii Albe (Văi şi brâne) first ascent, 59 years since Hornul Piticului (Padina lui Călineţ) first ascent, 81 years since Traseul Sudic din Peretele Central (Peretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş) first ascent, 49 years since Traseul Citadela Sfărâmată (Citadela Sfărâmată) first ascent, 1 year since Hornul Izvorului (Văiuga) first ascent

Valea Coştilei 1B
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 11.11.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 1B
Type: Alpine route

 Sursă foto: Rupi 
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

5 star routeMechanical anchorsPitonsRecommendedFantasticRope

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

At the refuge Co?tila, the point from which begins the ascent proper of the valley. Following trailul what accompanies a long thread Co?tilei, ajungern, immediately after the passage of a out rocky, at the point from which branches off to the right the path that goes up to the Ridge with Juniper trees, heading by V. Galbinelelor. On the opposite bank (on the left, as we climb), we distinguish soon the thread Vîlcelului Black, which descends on a bed of slabs wet and partly covered with moss, under the northern coasts of ?ancului Small. Next to this vîlcel, and after we go through a chaos of blocks high and a few small skipjack, we get under the high jumper High, right where the valley narrows, taking on a short portion the appearance of a canyon. High jumper, high of about 25 m and the appearance of a chimney narrow, it can be climbed directly (in part through ramonaj).
Variant. Get Vîlcelul Black on a distance of about 100 m, after which through a traverse almost horizontally to the right, along an area covered with juniper trees, back down the Valley Co?tila, above the first obstacles of the valley, between that and his bouncing High.
After passing this obstacle, the valley follows a series of steps high, after which it receives from the left, under the povîrni?ul northern Ridge of the Valley White, a first large tributary, called the "Vîlcelul under the Ridge" . From the same point we distinguish in the right (how to get) on the front of the Wall Co?tilei, which forms the southern flank of the Ridge Co?tila-Galbinele, spintecatura deep and slightly sinuous Chimney in the Wall of the Co?tilei.
Continuing the ascent on the thalweg rockier and more rugged terrain of the valley, we arrive at the confluence of the main branches of the Co?tilei, namely: the wire Vents Co?tilei (on the left, as we climb), interrupted above the confluence of a break of slope huge, and Vîlcelul under the Wall (on the right, how do we get up), who sneaks on to the base of the Southern Wall of Co?tilei. Although the ascent may be undertaken from this point, be on the crest of the threads, either on the thread of the Chimneys, however, for entry on the itineraries of technical Co?tilei, the shore indicated of the trails is that which follows the Vîlcelul under the Wall.
In the vicinity of the confluence of distinguish in the Wall Co?tilei a ridge very little prominent over who runs climbing the Edge of the Wall Co?tilei.
Vîlcelul under the Wall is still in the lead in front of a large concavities of the wall, what is emerging more obviously on the line of the ridge. In the centre of this walk, the path that marks the great înal?irne water leakage from rain, make it easy to find the Route of the Central of the Wall Co?tilei.
After a journey of about 100 m we reach the right of entry on the Route of the Traverse, which follows the great brîne what goes up diagonally on the face of the south wall, taking the end into the Ridge Co?tila-Galbinele.
In the upper portion the valley turns into a chimney pamîntos about 40 m height, at the base of which is carried out in the wall, the Crack High in the Wall of the Co?tilei.
In the end, after we go through the chimney and out above the obîr?iei Vîlcelului under the Wall, we distinguish with ease (in the right, how to get) the right of a porches wide, covered with juniper trees, the Crack South of the Wall Co?tilei (degree of difficulty II). From this point we cross soon thalweg very dimly defined as a tributary that descends diagonally from the right, called Vîlcelul Obîr?iei or Slabs Co?tilei. From here, passing by You, through a wide area, covered with seninari and cobble and broken by numerous scocuri and torrents what stabs the amphitheatre of the lineage of the Valley of the Co?tila, we get, after a climb devoid of difficulties, in the Girdle of Co?tilei.
The feature of the route in the winter. The wide opening and very little hurt to the amphitheater of the lineage of the Valley Co?tila, in whose of contents snows very poorly anchored causes (in the era of the thaw or after a snowfall abundant) avalanches frequent, makes the completion of the wire in the condition of winter to present a danger is emphasized in a time of great snows. We add that the thread Vents Co?tilei (on the left, how do we get the), forming the main axis of the falling down of avalanches, it is more appropriate as from the confluence to follow the thread from the right, called Vîlcelul under the Wall, on whose map the snows presents more safety, due to the ribs narrow and rocky of the valley.

Information source
Bucegi Turism-Alpinism, N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1961

Topo

Topo

Valea Coştilei

Pictures


Sursă foto: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links


  • 31.07.2016 Mihai Sava, Andrei, Rupi
  • 21.02.2016 Vali Oprea, Urucu Marius
  • 29.08.2015 Bubu, Vali, Marian, Puiu
  • 24.01.2015 Daniel Toader, Mihai Z, Alex S.
  • 30.12.2013 Daniel Toader, Codruta Rauta

Sursă foto: Rupi

Users who climbed the route


Adrian Scurtu - 30.05.2020
- 30.05.2020
Dan Ciubotaru - 30.05.2020
- 30.05.2020
Bogdan Lazăr - 23.02.2020, Iarna
- 23.02.2020In coborare
Jabon - 15.09.2018, Vara
- 15.09.2018
Andrei Badea - 01.09.2018, Vara
- 01.09.2018coborare
Alina Madalina Rosu - 04.02.2017
- 04.02.2017
Jabon - 31.07.2016, Vara
- 31.07.2016
Alina Madalina Rosu - 19.09.2015
- 19.09.2015
LauraB - 25.08.2012, Vara
- 25.08.2012
Andrei Badea - 25.08.2012, Vara
- 25.08.2012
Iulian B - 15.06.2001
- 15.06.2001
Wilhelm Martini - 03.03.1985, Iarna
- 03.03.1985
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Iarna
Cristian Popescu - 01.01.1900, Vara
Sherpa Scufi - 01.01.1900
Andrei Vlad - 01.01.1900, Vara

Users who wish to climb the route


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Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mountaineer E - 01.09.2019

Video - Cezar Crican - 26.12.2017

Map



Equipment


Sursă foto: Rupi

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