Floarea de Colţi 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 16.09.2014
edited by Ad Mini la data de 13.09.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Type: Classic route

 Floarea de Colţi 
Orientation: S
Length: 7 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 5 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsOverhangLoose rocksPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Matei Schenn, László Karácsonyi


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The only route that travels the south side of the Peak All that High, where do you take the end, is a journey of the Flower from the Fang. It does not measure more than 7 lengths of rope, and in return, the course is characterized by the obstacles of harsh, which go, in part, on the întilnite on some of the tracks to the same level of difficulty. Next, close the two lengths of rope, a zone of sandstone, which requires the submission more carefully; this is even more so, with the passage of the obstacle is carried out, in large part, by the ambitious, free.

The southern slope of the Peak of the Big the Sea forming a steep, high, whose slopes severely he ends up in the Waist Slim. Dent on the wall in the area of the present aspertul of an amphitheatre, broad, traversed axially of the Chimney, the Key to Large, visible to the left, and his gash right across it extended to the valley of, a valley grass. In addition to this, to the east, there is a continuous narrow strip from the Top, which lead you in the right faces, free of cracks, along which it is carried out, the first length of the chord of the route, a Flower from the Fang.

In the l. C. 1 the scale of this obstacle, the tall, 3-feet, situated on the south side of the great amphitheater, and after that, moving on a diagonal to the right, approx. 6 km, and then along the faces, with tiny plugs, we'll go out on a ledge, where there's a problem.

In a 2-l. C. up to the face of the wall, covering a passage with the rock throwing, and a couple of bars protruding, crossed by the cracks are open. Once you get past them, climb up further, a portion of the green roof and the overhangnta. Beyond that, we'll regroup on the waist.

In the course of the 3-l. C. proceed approx. 2 km to the left along the waist, and then climbing vertically to the right of the large block out of the wall, it go around on the right. Beyond this obstacle, the detour is approx. 6 m, on a diagonal to the left, to a platform where there's a problem.

At the beginning of the 4th L. C., step it up a passage to a high of 7, after which, moving to the right, over a ridge, around the ceiling of the overhangs. Beyond the barrier, climb the crack up to the level of an upper stone of the floor tiles, the colour yellow is a good landmark for finding the trail, from the base of the wall.

Regarded as the tougher of the 5th L. C., is carried out at a distance of 4-5 m, and over a series of obstacles alcaluite of the sandstone is very friable, and free from cracks and chips. Beyond this passage, we encounter a flaw on the vertical axis of which moving forward, make sure the rings fixed on the road. Next, go over to a beetle, and within a short distance of it, there is a chimney, which is based on the get out of here.

In the 6-to l. C., climb the chimney about 4 feet, after which the submission is being blocked by some obstacle is out of reach. By means of a cross short to the right, over the edge, we end up in a ditch along the slope of the rocky, rough terrain, the climb up to the height of a ceiling of the rock, where we all regrouped again.

Here, with the help of a foot holder fastened to the cam (7-to l. C.), we're going over to a beetle, and the scale continues to be a distance of approx. 35 km, the final obstacle of the route, the latter taking over at the Top of All the Great. Following the western Edge of the Claii Great, we'll soon be in the Saddle of the Claii.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 53.2" E 25° 30' 20.6"    
Access route: Follow the Log Path to the Howlers; it would lead-after an hour in the "Bend". From there, after a series of switchbacks, the road continues on the level, and after approx. 10 minutes away from the Spider reaches the V-shaped Treasures. Leaving the Road, Howling, we're on the right tavelgul the Valley of the Treasure, and led directly to the or, bypassing the obstacles along the way.

Soon, the valley and the confluence with the Comorlle Brânei, coming down from the left as you go up). Our route follows in the next thread on the right, referred to as the Valley of the Treasures of the Clali, where the map scale in the lower intervate three jumpers. Soon, we arrive at the confluence of a small valley, descending to the right (how to get) the bottom of it we can distinguish, at a distance of approx. The 80 feet higher.

Parasind the main story, we follow the valley upwards for a distance of approx. 60 m to the right of a hollow (from the left), from which a small spring is resfira the waters over the stones of the wall. From there, to the right, up slightly on the hata?ul the Book at the Top, with the left side wall of the slit vertically from the Chimney of the Sea in the Spring. Identify the line of the route, the 23rd of August, even in the inflection of the wall, in a dihedral-crack, with a lot of grass. From here, it was 7-8 feet to the left, on the front, you see the first few hands of Aurel Irimia.

Ha?a?ul it continues to the east, the elevation increased, and a few yards farther on it reaches the right of the small terraces, which housed the camp of teams that have scaled the first tracks on the wall. From there the belt enters you in the grand amphitheatre of the wall, and after approx. A 100-m reach, under one of the cracks that cross the wall over the entire height and which forms the line of the Route Gen?ianei. Moving in the same direction, we can distinguish in the distance, a crack of similar to that of the path of the previous, this one being the 25th of December.

On the last platform to end a meeting, coboâm in the of valley grass, which we are at the top, covering the spintecatura deep end of the Funnel Claii Great. It is approx. 40 m from the base of the chimney, on the left, some inspired grass is the first part of the route the Edge of the Strungii.

More than 5 m in the left side of the same chimney, it is within the entrance of the trail along the Edge of the Southern.
Access duration: 2 - 3 hours
Retreat route: Go in the Middle of Mark up in the Jepii Large or Jepii Small (up to the left or the right, as you prefer) and head down for the tour up in the Logs.
Retreat duration: 2 hours

Pictures


Floarea de Colţi

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Floarea de Colţi

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Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 53.2" E 25° 30' 20.6"    
Access route: Follow the Log Path to the Howlers; it would lead-after an hour in the "Bend". From there, after a series of switchbacks, the road continues on the level, and after approx. 10 minutes away from the Spider reaches the V-shaped Treasures. Leaving the Road, Howling, we're on the right tavelgul the Valley of the Treasure, and led directly to the or, bypassing the obstacles along the way.

Soon, the valley and the confluence with the Comorlle Brânei, coming down from the left as you go up). Our route follows in the next thread on the right, referred to as the Valley of the Treasures of the Clali, where the map scale in the lower intervate three jumpers. Soon, we arrive at the confluence of a small valley, descending to the right (how to get) the bottom of it we can distinguish, at a distance of approx. The 80 feet higher.

Parasind the main story, we follow the valley upwards for a distance of approx. 60 m to the right of a hollow (from the left), from which a small spring is resfira the waters over the stones of the wall. From there, to the right, up slightly on the hata?ul the Book at the Top, with the left side wall of the slit vertically from the Chimney of the Sea in the Spring. Identify the line of the route, the 23rd of August, even in the inflection of the wall, in a dihedral-crack, with a lot of grass. From here, it was 7-8 feet to the left, on the front, you see the first few hands of Aurel Irimia.

Ha?a?ul it continues to the east, the elevation increased, and a few yards farther on it reaches the right of the small terraces, which housed the camp of teams that have scaled the first tracks on the wall. From there the belt enters you in the grand amphitheatre of the wall, and after approx. A 100-m reach, under one of the cracks that cross the wall over the entire height and which forms the line of the Route Gen?ianei. Moving in the same direction, we can distinguish in the distance, a crack of similar to that of the path of the previous, this one being the 25th of December.

On the last platform to end a meeting, coboâm in the of valley grass, which we are at the top, covering the spintecatura deep end of the Funnel Claii Great. It is approx. 40 m from the base of the chimney, on the left, some inspired grass is the first part of the route the Edge of the Strungii.

More than 5 m in the left side of the same chimney, it is within the entrance of the trail along the Edge of the Southern.
Retreat route: Go in the Middle of Mark up in the Jepii Large or Jepii Small (up to the left or the right, as you prefer) and head down for the tour up in the Logs.

Equipment


Floarea de Colţi

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