Today we celebrate 50 years since Traseul celor Patru Surplombe (Traseul Victor Măciucă) (Peretele Bătrâna) first ascent

Hercules 5A, 6b+ (5a, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 06.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 27.05.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Mandatory grade: 5a
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b+
Type: Classic route

 alt 
Length: 4 pitches
Climb duration: 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Eugen Seracin, Gavril Săplăcan, Virgil Tiponuţ
Date: 1973


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC-1 is on the left the routes of the V. O. C. and the ?uhaida. Does this have to do with the ?uhaida three expansion bolts, after which it is go around to the left, a tavanel. The fourth of the loop shall be provided in two expansion bolts connected with a wire, which is a carabiniera pompiereasca (just in case you change your mind). From here, they're just making sure the cams. The route goes left oblique, and it passes through a tavanel. From about 10 feet up next to a traverseu skew to the right. The grouping is to the right, a wider one, that perfect and it's a chain, and the carabiniera. It is not a long-friable. This is what happens next.

LC 2 - this is very, very crumbly. Get out of the pool to the oblique left. About. two meters is the first anchor in a small chimney. The nail you will see there are plenty of them. If you have less than 20 loops, and make sure every one who does not, you will end up at the end. The half of this length is a cinch with the nodes, which can be used as a step stool. The grouping is on top of the trunk of the tree, the two pegs with a ring. They're hidden in the grass. The pool a bit uncomfortable.

LC-3 is a short, approximately 10-feet. Crumbly on the go. It goes obliquely to the right. The third pin you will find under the grass. It brings together a comfortable 3-nailed to a tree.

LC-4 is the most compact and technological in length. It can be done in two different lengths, or 40-year-old me in the way that we do. Leave a traverseu the right, on top of which we find the first bolt. After traverseu goes to the left into a dihedral broad, well-secured, which comes out to a big tree in which there is a bolt to the ring where they regroup.
Information source
camihesse.ro - http://www.camihesse.ro/mama.php?crt=80

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 44° 53' 48.3" E 22° 25' 42.6"    
Retreat route: Down is a three-boosts
the booster is 1 to 30 feet away from the tree, a big slant right up a tree.
the booster 2 through the woods, up at the top of the routes, climbing out from under the ceiling.
booster from 3 to 15 m
Retreat duration: 30 min

Topo

Topo

Sursă: onemove.ro

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GPS: N 44° 53' 48.3" E 22° 25' 42.6"    
Retreat route: Down is a three-boosts
the booster is 1 to 30 feet away from the tree, a big slant right up a tree.
the booster 2 through the woods, up at the top of the routes, climbing out from under the ceiling.
booster from 3 to 15 m

Equipment


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