Today we celebrate 53 years since Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile) (Turnul Goliat) first ascent, 14 years since Out of Fuel (Prima faleză) first ascent, 14 years since Enter The Dragon (Prima faleză) first ascent

Haiducilor 4B, 7+ (5, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 06.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 27.05.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 5
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Type: Classic route

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Length: 3 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Nicu Stelian Balmez, Emil Luzan, Gavril Săplăcan
Date: 1972


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

This is the first route opened on the wall of the Cave The route of the 5A level, but the lack of it makes a difference of only 4. The premiere was performed by the team of Balmez, Nicu, Luzan, Emil, and Sãplãcan Saints, in September of 1972.

LK 1: Start with 2 feet from the wall, and without many outlets. It comes in a fisurã, which, according to the 4 feet to the left, leading us onto a small platform. Continuing cã?ãrarea to the left, passing by the grotto of fisurã vertical runs in a dihedral under a roof. It goes around the ceiling of the by-pass for about 5 yards to his left. Be sure to do it in a clepsidrã. Climbing continues, following a fisurã the vertical slightly to the left, and the depã?ind a surplombã, grouping together, making a small platform of vegetation. (40 meters).


LC-2: From about 30 feet away, start moving it to the right, then up and to the left until the first surplombã provided by an anchor pipe. The route goes slightly to the left, up to the base of the two overhangs over which it passes. On top of her for a fisurã leads to the right into a dihedral up to the rings of the pool, about 5 meters under the ceiling of what arises obliquely upward to the left. (At this length, there is pitonatã is a variable that loops around to the left and through the two overhangs which escalates more and more difficult to clear).


LC-3: From about 20 feet away, follows the two-flat down to the base of the ceiling, from where, using rings set in the crack between the wall and the ceiling, overhangtã for the first 4 meters, then the dirijatã to the left, it goes up to a fisurã that allows the continuation of the path on the vertical depã?ind the ceiling. Then the slope of the how to lose the thing it comes out after 7-8 metres away on the tip of the ?ancului, which marks the end of the course.
Information source
http://alpinet.org/iic/iic01-11/eai1.htm

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 44° 53' 48.3" E 22° 25' 42.6"    
Access route: Of the Spa River-the Brass, going from the Novel (around 200 feet) up the Valley of the River, you encounter a around out of the escarpment, where it is marked on the wall with red paint, the entrance to the trail.
Retreat route: Shall be at least 3 boosts in the direction of the route, or cross to the left-80 m, and then down through the forest and up the path to the Cave of the Outlaws.

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GPS: N 44° 53' 48.3" E 22° 25' 42.6"    
Access route: Of the Spa River-the Brass, going from the Novel (around 200 feet) up the Valley of the River, you encounter a around out of the escarpment, where it is marked on the wall with red paint, the entrance to the trail.
Retreat route: Shall be at least 3 boosts in the direction of the route, or cross to the left-80 m, and then down through the forest and up the path to the Cave of the Outlaws.

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