Fisura Ţapului (spre Strunga Neagră) (Hornul de Sus al Ţapului) (The crack of the Goat (to the Strunga Black) (Chimney Top of the Goat)) 3A
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 22.03.2019

General characteristics

Classic grade: 3A
Type: Classic route

Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsCams/NutsCrackChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Ion Şincan, Dr. D. Chiriceanu, Horia Stamatu
Date: 03.10.1937

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

At the confluence of the strands of the upper of the Goat, above the great rift of the slope (Tether Valley of the Goat), the following faces of the threads, we'll soon be in the right Chimney from the Top of the Goat, (degree of difficulties. 3) that falls vertically from the Saddle Strungii Black, located above and to the left of us, on the ridge that separates us from Valea Seaca to Co?tilei.

Extract from the Memories of a Climber:

The first steps in the Crack of the Goat I did on the right wall, with the crack in the face. After I climbed a couple of metres, I was forced to go back to the left and use the left edge of the crack. In this place I beat a python for the insurance, because the wall throw me out. How the crack was narrow, not having the character of a chimney, could not do ramonaj. The only solution to get ahead was to use small outlets encountered. I climbed up but in the sprai?. After we traveled a piece of the road, I knocked a second piton. At the end of a length of rope, I reached the Chimney Black, whose inclination is smaller. I beat there third python to assure others, that I brought on line in the chimney. Chimney Black is short, do not pose difficulties, so I climbed fast and got out in Strunga Black, there in the Valley of Dry to Co?tilei at the base of the Corner Malinului.
Information source
Buletinul Alpin, revista CAR, Anul V, august 1937, nr. 2, pag. 16
Bucegii turism alpinism - Nicolae Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The ascent begins in the Valley of the Goat, slightly above the rupture of slope on it.



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Access route: The ascent begins in the Valley of the Goat, slightly above the rupture of slope on it.