Today we celebrate 48 years since Hornul Suspinelor (Peretele Padinei Şindileriei) first ascent, 17 years since El Monstro (Peretele Zânelor) first ascent, 75 years since Extrema stângă a Peretelui Marelui Grohotiș (Peretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş) first ascent

Fisura Ţapului (spre Strunga Neagră) (Hornul de Sus al Ţapului) 3A
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 06.04.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3A
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: Rupi (2016) 
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsCrackChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Ion Şincan, Dr. D. Chiriceanu, Horia Stamatu
Date: 03.10.1937


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

At the junction of the wires of the upper of the Goat over the precipice of the slope (Right of the Valley of the Goat), followed by the faces of the threads, we'll soon be on the right of the Chimney to the Top of the Goat's, (degree of difficulty. 3), which falls in the vertical from the Saddle Strungii Black, which is located above and to the left of us, on the ridge which separates the Valley of the Drying up of the Co?tilei.


Excerpt from the Memories of a Mountaineer:


The first step in the Crack of the Goat, I made it on the wall to the right, having a crack at the front. I'm going to climb a couple of feet away, I had no choice but to turn to the left and to the use of the leading edge of the left side of the crack. In this place, I have a ball python for your insurance, because the wall I throw it out there. As the crack was very narrow, with the character of the chimney, he could not get ramonaj. The only way to move forward was to use the small outlets you have encountered. I stepped up, however, in the sprai?. After I had gone a little way, I took out a second anchor. At the end of a length of rope, I ended up in the Chimney of the Black man, whose inclination is smaller. I've beaten it there's a third pin to provide the rest, which I have brought on line at a chimney. The chimney of the Negro is short, it does not present any difficulties, so I got up quickly and went out into the mountain pass, the Black, out there, in the Valley of the Drying up of the Co?tilei at the base of the Horn Malinului.
Information source
Buletinul Alpin, revista CAR, Anul V, august 1937, nr. 2, pag. 16
Bucegii turism alpinism - Nicolae Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: The ascent begins in the Valley of the Goat, a little bit over the precipice of a slope on it.

Pictures


Sursa foto: Rupi (2016)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursa foto: Rupi (2016)

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



Access route: The ascent begins in the Valley of the Goat, a little bit over the precipice of a slope on it.

Equipment


Sursa foto: Rupi (2016)

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