10 yeas ago, Nicolae Dobre was leaving us. Today we celebrate 64 years since Fisura Margaretelor (Peretele din Vâlcelul lui Theodoru (Vâlcelul Ascuns)) first ascent

Fisura Diavolului 5B, 8- (6+, A1)
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  • Description
  • Pictures (3)
  • Diaries/Climbs (8)
  • Video (1)
  • Map
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added by Ad Min la data de 04.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 27.05.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Mandatory grade: 6+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 8-
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Mihai Sava 
Length: 7 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

5 star routePitonsCrackChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Eugen Seracin, Gavril Săplăcan, Nicu Stelian Balmez, Eugen Pop, Titi Molin
Date: 1974
Second ascent (First repeat): Mihai Pupeza
Date: 1974


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LK 1: Turn off the a cracking, well-equipped, not too difficult, but full of rocks. In the second-half of the length, we make a traverse right, under the plate, descataram a little bit to get a crack to the right of the pool. The pool to a department, and the insurance, furniture (walnut high).


LC 2: it Is going on the crack from the top of about 15 yards, it works fine in the success, secured by corner irons. It becomes a funnel, which will lead us below the ceiling. Cross the right hand under it, taking the plugs are good, reaching up to 2 expansion bolts, which opens up the key of the track. Get the sprai? wide, and then it goes into the chimney in the ramonaj. It brings together the tree, it brâni?a of the pot.



LK 3: Go up to a chimneyule? bit inierbat, at about 15 yards. Here, the trail is crossed by the route of the old-timers, what's going on to the right side. Keep on the leading edge of the left side of the fire, and then immediately turn right on a fissure, a artificial for the approximately 7 meters, and then climb clear up to the pool. The pool, on a small platform.



LK 4: climb obliquely left for about 10 meters, we keep more than one face flushed, where we have a couple of expansion bolts, and then we'll get a crack slanting left, it works fine on the synthetic. The insurance is very high, it is good to do the nails, or else we run out of loops. Grouped on a brâni?a of the grass, the trees.



LK 5: Go up the easy terrain to the trees on the Domogled.
Information source

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 44° 52' 26.9" E 22° 25' 18.2"    
Access route: From the main road, we turn onto a mountain just barely visible through the woods and bushes, moving then on to the vâlcelul to the Theatre.
Retreat route: Start at the edge of the right-to the right of it, where we are continuing on a steep footpath (to the left of the edge). This is followed by two boosts of 50 metres over a ridge and rocky. We descend through the forest to the main road.

Pictures


Sursă: Mihai Sava

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Mihai Sava

Users who climbed the route


Razvan Hotea - 14.04.2013, Vara
- 14.04.2013Primele 2 lungimi
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara
- 01.08.1980
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Páll Endre - 20.06.2015

Map



GPS: N 44° 52' 26.9" E 22° 25' 18.2"    
Access route: From the main road, we turn onto a mountain just barely visible through the woods and bushes, moving then on to the vâlcelul to the Theatre.
Retreat route: Start at the edge of the right-to the right of it, where we are continuing on a steep footpath (to the left of the edge). This is followed by two boosts of 50 metres over a ridge and rocky. We descend through the forest to the main road.

Equipment


Sursă: Mihai Sava

Comments