Today we celebrate 65 years since Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent, 51 years since Hornul Mare-Negru (Bucura II - Peretele Nord-Estic) first ascent, 1 year since Muchia din dreapta Vaii lui Ivan (Valea lui Ivan) first ascent

Hornul Mare al Țapului 4A
0.00/5 (0 votes)




1683 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Videos
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 06.04.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Type: Classic route

 Sursa foto: LauraB (2013) 
Length: 5 pitches
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Constantin Conteş, Toma Boerescu, Sorin Tulea, Mircea Casassovici, Dorin Grigorescu, Alexandru Barboiu, Ghizi Baikai
Date: 27.08.1938


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

On the right the geographical location of the Valley of the Suffering of the Co?tila it's a kind of a chimney-crack which is a route very, very interesting, and I highly recommend it to lovers of ramonaj just. This track is the Horn of the Goat.


The beginning of the Chimney, it's right at the bottom of the Valley of the Goat, and the entrance to it is made over a wall from about 8 feet away, located to the left of him, and then it enters the Chimney proper, and after that, the strabatându is about 20 meters to get to the first beetle. It's very open, and the bottom is very narrow, which requires striking of a cam.


With the help of a pyramid, the members of the team [st. Thomas Players, C. Conte?, Sorin Tulea, Which Casassovici, Dorin Grigorescu, Barboiu Al. Mrs. G. Baikai] pass out of this point, in order to find the leak and start the ramonajul about it. The last one is bound to get on my hands and my feet, almost 4 feet on the string hanging over the lip of the surplombei, which is why it's so exhausting, the rope having a thickness of 12 mm. Here, it would have made a beautiful application of the vertex of k used.


From this point forward, on an area of about 25 metres, the Chimney is vertical, and the two walls are quite close together, which forces the ca?aratori (especially those of short stature, high) will get a lot out of the crack to get a taste of the pleasures of the ramonajului, and, in particular, in order to be able to fit in it. Get ramonând with his back against the wall to the right and to the feet of the one on the left. A slight recovery in the Chimney, it allows the grouping at the start of the second part of the ramonaj a length of about 40 feet. The position of the ca?aratorului is the same, the legs of the support, alternatively on the front of the left side and now it has become a kind of crest, and what is the sole of the foot, and which is pointed at the top, is perpendicular to the bottom of the crack. At one point the ridge disappears, and the gap is ever-widening, turning into a vertical wall, with the outlets pretty small, and that is after they fight the 2 hands for the insurance money.


We'll be on a platform which is continuous to the right and to the left of the fissure for a distance of about 10 feet, with some of the brâneaguri small. The crack in the main from here on out, it shows the overhangnta, wet, and with the sockets and removable. On the left it looks like it could do it, but I can't see what's coming next. This is why we chose the trail to the right. In this part the climb is very technical, being in the form of a wall, in a place that's easy overhangnt, about 25 feet away, and no electrical outlets.


On the stand, see the bottom of the Valley of the Goat at about 90 to 100 feet below us, which gives us the impression that we are standing on the balcony of a high-rise building.
To climb up said wall, it will need to work with the rope doubled. Beat the first and second cam, and start climbing. The portion of the overhangnta of the wall, it goes in after the battery has 4 cams. The complete lack of power outlets, use it for the first time, a ladder made out of rope, do you mean from a string, thick, tied in at the eye that is attached at the first pin. In this, the eye, the foot ca?aratorului rest like a ladder. The cliffhanger itself is being held up by the buddies of the down which they pull the rope is passed through the first pin. In this position, he is knocking the piece on the next move the string to the next, through him, pass through the d-link piston of a second one of a different ladder from the rope, after which he takes with him a leg of the first cam to move the third pin, and so on. The hiker gets, so the alternative to this rope ladder and move it yourself while he's being held, suspended, alternative, when, in a chord, when one of the lower ones.


After the portion of the overhangnta next to a vertical wall, which ends at the head of the circus, which also has a small cave and go left to rejoin the main thread of the Chimney above the surplombei wetlands, referred to above, and that I had to take a detour. Traverseul it is to do with the aid of a railing, because the girdle is cut off, like, 5 feet away, and we are forced to move across the face of an almost vertical, and the lower right overhangnta. Past this point, we're at the head of the traverseului, which is located on the Crest of the Beautiful. About 20 yards up the is a wider one, that of the wide intinzându to the right and it will take you easily back to the Valley of the Goat, about 150 metres further up from where we left.
Information source
Sorin Tulea, Hornul Mare al Țapului, Buletinul CAR, anul VI, nr. 2, noiembrie 1938, pag. 21-24
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Trasee alpine în Carpați - Walter Kargel, 1976
http://mirceaordeandoi.blogspot.com/2017/05/istoria-mersului-pe-munte-la-noi-album.html

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: If we commit ourselves in the Valley of the Goat, leave it on the left as you go up The Kid (alt. 1795. m.), then the mountain pass the Buck (alt. 1760 m.) after which it rises to the Crest of a sheer cliff which separates the Valley of Suffering from Dry creek to the Co?tilei and get to the bottom of the Chimney, at an altitude of approx. The 1800 metres. From this point, the Chimney, the Sea presents itself as a vertical crack, the set of points moves, and with a platform of grass, with a general direction a little oblique to the right.

Topo

Topo

Hornul Mare al Țapului

Pictures


Sursa foto: LauraB (2013)

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursa foto: LauraB (2013)

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



Access route: If we commit ourselves in the Valley of the Goat, leave it on the left as you go up The Kid (alt. 1795. m.), then the mountain pass the Buck (alt. 1760 m.) after which it rises to the Crest of a sheer cliff which separates the Valley of Suffering from Dry creek to the Co?tilei and get to the bottom of the Chimney, at an altitude of approx. The 1800 metres. From this point, the Chimney, the Sea presents itself as a vertical crack, the set of points moves, and with a platform of grass, with a general direction a little oblique to the right.

Equipment


Sursa foto: LauraB (2013)

Comments