Today we celebrate 50 years since Traseul celor Patru Surplombe (Traseul Victor Măciucă) (Peretele Bătrâna) first ascent

Surplombele din Vâlcel 6A, 6b (5c, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 04.11.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 29.10.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Mandatory grade: 5c
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 6b
Type: Classic route

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Length: 8 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: József Ilyés, Francisc Bitai, Nicolae Grűner
Date: 1976


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail is located on the far left side (north) of the Wall of the Falcon. The 6 length of the string is as follows :

The LC-1 for longer than two overhangs, with the difficult passages (level of difficulty I-VI, A0-A2, 40-m).

LK 2: Cross the left (I -4-A; A2; 15 km).

LC 3: the Skew to the left (V +; A2 -; 30 m is).

LK 4: further, The slant-left, beetle (BL: A2; 35 m), the pools, the brâna (the stone quarry).

LK 5: brâna to the right, then up past the overhangs above the quarry (VI, 2; 50 m).

LK 6: the pass two additional overhangs, before they reach the output (V; 2; 35 m is).
Information source
Topo - Walter Kargel, Drumuri spre culmi, 1988
http://www.qdidactic.com/didactica-scoala/geografie/alpinism/peretele-soimului-surplombele-din-vilcel155.php


Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 44° 52' 26.9" E 22° 25' 18.2"    
Access route: Access is from Baile Herculane, on the left-hand edge of the wall, climb up the scree to the entrance of a valley, and we go to a spring moving on a scree at the base of the wall, you'll find the entrance to the trail is located on the right side.
Retreat route: The descent is made toward the right, parallel to the crest, passing over the exits of the paths of the Cup of Banat, 1977, The Devil. A trail vaguely defined leading to the right side in a ditch along the slope, which comes down to paying attention (the booster). Standing in an amphitheatre at the base of the wall, then down the scree to the Baile Herculane.

Topo

Topo

Surplombele din Vâlcel

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Map



GPS: N 44° 52' 26.9" E 22° 25' 18.2"    
Access route: Access is from Baile Herculane, on the left-hand edge of the wall, climb up the scree to the entrance of a valley, and we go to a spring moving on a scree at the base of the wall, you'll find the entrance to the trail is located on the right side.
Retreat route: The descent is made toward the right, parallel to the crest, passing over the exits of the paths of the Cup of Banat, 1977, The Devil. A trail vaguely defined leading to the right side in a ditch along the slope, which comes down to paying attention (the booster). Standing in an amphitheatre at the base of the wall, then down the scree to the Baile Herculane.

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