Fisura Santinelei Văii Verzi (Crack Sentry Green Valley) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Rian la data de 20.02.2016

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Technical rock climbing

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Orientation: N-E
Length: 7 pitches
Altitude: 1500 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 3 - 5 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emilian Cristea, Aurel Irimia, Radu Constantin
Date: 24-26.06.1951


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The first LC. who will be this threshold represents the number of passages, the lungs; in the upper, pipe is narrow, with a height of approx. 20 m, escalation through ramonaj. At the end of his first platform allows belay station.

To resume the ascent, passing only a single pass is less susceptible (2 HP) and approx. after 30 m there is a grotto, which we belay station.

3 L. C., of which the climbing hold on the chord of the double, includes the adoption of surplombe complex, after which the grotto allows a new rearrangement.

Here, through the passage to the right (L. C. 4), we enter the locomotive pamântos, and after 15 m to reach the wide platform, consists of several lespezi his page in the social network in the wall. This place, with panoramic views of the vast Valley of the Deer.

5 L. C. should be initially obstacle in dihedral, it is easy overhangnt in the upper part; after 10 m we perform a bypass to the left at the end of which is to identify the locomotive.

6 L. C., which does not exceed 15 metres, to bring someone to the platform, where walls meet the grotto, deeply.

7 L. C. requires climbing very careful.

8 L. C. is characterized by the threshold stone is very inclined. He is lost in the upper part, îngustându in until then, which makes than aggregators, completely uncomfortable on the platform, not exceeding 50 cm in width and under that wall goes vertically to a depth of 200 meters.

9 L. C. pass through the vertical passage, and after overcoming the plot is easy overhangnte crosses a number of plates, taking, finally, after 30 km, on the basis of the chimney is inclined, which is hard climbing.

10-L. C. passes through two tubes are narrow and vertical, and in some areas overhangnte that can be overcome by free climbing.

Here, the last two L. C., which lead to the peak is technical difficulties, more and more reduced.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism, Ed. a 2-a, rev. și adăugită - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964; 
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, București, 2000.

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: In Poiana Deer Valley heading southbound on West for a short way, the Valley of the Deer marked with a yellow stripe. Before you cross the stream of the valley we see on our left (wide meadow) saritorile final Malinului Valley, and immediately to the right of them, wire, Green Valleys that descend through the passage is rocky and wet, covâr?it at the outlet of steep with wild vegetation.

Getting into the flow of this valley, we follow approx. 40 m, after which we directed to the right, passing through pine desi?ul Istrian mountains and climb on the basis of the enormous pyramids of the area. Here we strecuram, in the future, under the wall to the right, and we're right at the threshold, covered with rich vegetation.
Retreat route: For the return we go down to get her to capitulate is in the BCC. 60 m below the peak, but here, on scocul that escape from strange in the direction of Green Valley, to the point where we meet a group of the country. In the future we get through the amplifier 40 m at the base of the wall. Directing us to the left (as looking at the wall), go up to the edge, approx. 40 m, on which flank we meet opposite the engine, which will lead us into Green Valley. Stream valley, and then down, we will soon return to Poiana Valley of the Deer.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Santinelei Văii Verzi
Fisura Santinelei Văii Verzi

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User who climbed the route


Lucian Apostu - 04.09.2016, Vara
Eugen Popescu - 01.08.1980, Vara

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Map



Access route: In Poiana Deer Valley heading southbound on West for a short way, the Valley of the Deer marked with a yellow stripe. Before you cross the stream of the valley we see on our left (wide meadow) saritorile final Malinului Valley, and immediately to the right of them, wire, Green Valleys that descend through the passage is rocky and wet, covâr?it at the outlet of steep with wild vegetation.

Getting into the flow of this valley, we follow approx. 40 m, after which we directed to the right, passing through pine desi?ul Istrian mountains and climb on the basis of the enormous pyramids of the area. Here we strecuram, in the future, under the wall to the right, and we're right at the threshold, covered with rich vegetation.
Retreat route: For the return we go down to get her to capitulate is in the BCC. 60 m below the peak, but here, on scocul that escape from strange in the direction of Green Valley, to the point where we meet a group of the country. In the future we get through the amplifier 40 m at the base of the wall. Directing us to the left (as looking at the wall), go up to the edge, approx. 40 m, on which flank we meet opposite the engine, which will lead us into Green Valley. Stream valley, and then down, we will soon return to Poiana Valley of the Deer.

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