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Fisura Sudică 3A
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Rupi la data de 29.05.2017

General characteristics

Classic grade: 3A
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Rupi 
Orientation: S
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 2300 m
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:


PitonsCams/NutsCrackChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Emilian Cristea, Mircea Sterescu
Date: 22.07.1945

Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

To enter the crack, follow a route indirectly, along a waist horizontal start of the thread valley (upstream of the rift) and is extended over a distance of nearly 100 m, to the right (as you look towards the Corner Malinului).

At the base of the Crack Malinului, the first L. C. passes over a chimney very inclined. On this portion we carry out a series of sailings short, but complicated, due to the sockets extremely small. A beetle cut off the front of a crack is last easy with the help of a pyramid; here, the passage continues along a new cracks which, as you go up, it becomes all the more wide.

During the 2-to L. C. we conduct a ramonaj of 40 m, at the end of which we can follow one of the options below:
a) first ascends directly into the ridge that connects the Upper Malinului with the Tooth of the Teeth (variant, easy, does not present a technical interest particularly);
b) 2 of the variation follows the crack what it steers to the right, towards the Corner of the Malinului, the most interesting of the passages of the whole process. On this stretch, climbing through a ramonaj very open, a tall chimney, get in the right a cave with the rock of black-grey, where we regroup.

In the 3-L. C., leaving the grotto, we perform an initial crossing, after which, climbing through ramonaj a vertical crack, out to 20 m below the peak, where the difficulties of the route decrease substantially.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Mircea Ordean - Sus la munte la izvor



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