Today we celebrate 88 years since Traseul Comănescu (Muchia Nordică) (Turnul Seciului) first ascent, 59 years since Santinela Padinei Popii (Padina Popii) first ascent

Traseul Victoriei 4B, (6-/6, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 28.06.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Mandatory grade: 6-/6
Aid climbing grade: A0
Type: Classic route

 Vedere de ansamblu de la baza versantului opus al Valcelului Ascuns 
Length: 3 pitches
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsOverhangDihedralCrackRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Florin Stan, Pompiliu Pascu, Dumitru Porcescu
Date: 28.04.1957
Story: Link


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is very spectacular, with its rock solid and my insurance health.


LC 1: After that we'll regroup at the tree, at the base of the route, starting at the traverseu the left, ensuring that the pin with the ring. We continue the upward trend of the left, we pass by some trees, and then we turn to the right, you get some time off at the wall (but it's a solid, we can't keep it very carefully for it), and go on to a small platform, about 2 stone. Keep up with the others, the reverse, a solid and highly impressive, we get to the base of the diedrului the vertical, what is the best part of the whole route. The two-flat is well secured, with 3 expansion bolts on a 13-14m, and the original is secured to the pipe, and the tendoare. The most exciting is the way in the pool, on the grass. 30, grade 6+.


LK 2: Cross the right side of the tree, and then, up on the fisurele staple to the next tree. Get a ramp, an upward easier potting to a 2-3m wide, and then the solid rock by the pool. We can't keep going up and up on the next long one, but we need a lot of loops (about £ 25 if you provide the whole). 25-grade 6-


LC-3: It can go almost exclusively to the artificial one. Start up the crack and hold it until the bringing together of the final. We get a first-beetle, which is the highest, and then in the spra?uri to a new surplombi?a, and the vertical, and still have a little pot belly at the end. Once you overcome this, continue up the field, slowly, but without too much assurance, go to a tree and pooled into a bottleneck at the tree with the rope. 25, A0/A1
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed. a 2-a, rev. şi adăugită - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin Tour, Bucureşti, 2000
Sursă foto - Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 26' 15.9" E 25° 29' 59.3"    
Access route: At the confluence of the valleys below, or me and Fang, we're going down. Keep to the right, on a mountain, the curve of level and gently downhill, parallel to the Valley of the Malinului. Pretty soon we'll get to go down to a valley pamântos, it is Vâlcelul Hidden. Following to the left of the narrow strip that appears at the top of the Vâlcelului Hide, we work on the ca. 10 m to the right and up a sluice box angle and covered with vegetation. Here, after a passage of 8 feet to the left, over a doorway is narrow, we arrive at the base of the Route to Victory.
Retreat route: Abseil the line of the route. We can't pull one string from the 60's.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Victoriei

Pictures


Vedere de ansamblu de la baza versantului opus al Valcelului Ascuns

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Vedere de ansamblu de la baza versantului opus al Valcelului Ascuns

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 26' 15.9" E 25° 29' 59.3"    
Access route: At the confluence of the valleys below, or me and Fang, we're going down. Keep to the right, on a mountain, the curve of level and gently downhill, parallel to the Valley of the Malinului. Pretty soon we'll get to go down to a valley pamântos, it is Vâlcelul Hidden. Following to the left of the narrow strip that appears at the top of the Vâlcelului Hide, we work on the ca. 10 m to the right and up a sluice box angle and covered with vegetation. Here, after a passage of 8 feet to the left, over a doorway is narrow, we arrive at the base of the Route to Victory.
Retreat route: Abseil the line of the route. We can't pull one string from the 60's.

Equipment


Vedere de ansamblu de la baza versantului opus al Valcelului Ascuns

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