Today we celebrate 88 years since Traseul Comănescu (Muchia Nordică) (Turnul Seciului) first ascent, 59 years since Santinela Padinei Popii (Padina Popii) first ascent

Fisura Margaretelor 3B, 7+/8- (6, A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 08.07.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 6
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 7+/8-
Type: Classic route

 Fisura Margaretelor 
Length: 2 pitches
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsOverhangFace climbingFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Florin Stan, Pompiliu Pascu, Dumitru Porcescu
Date: 25.10.1956


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: we Leave from the thalweg of the valley on the skirts of the grass. Go on a low brâna and go through it carefully to the left and to the far end. Here is the first one who, for a pi of the green. Here, basically, you start the way back. It is a length of beautiful, tree-climbing, fine, on the fly, secured it well, with the expansion bolts, but it's rare (with 3 expansion bolts on a 25 m from the face). It's better in the first leg and we have a couple of frienduri big, you can mount it in the crack in the left side (10-15cm). The finish is easy on the wall falls down, regrouped in the hole. 35m, Grade 6+


LK 2: it's hard. Go gently, and make sure the first one ever. Go under the arch with a reverse at the hands of, grade 7/7+, we come out on top of a crevice of light (6+/7-), and we have one more step to the end of it. Let's give it another couple of feet on a chimneyule? flat and pooled in a large tree. If you want the length to be artificially inflated, it is useful to have a couple of frienduri small/medium-15m, grade, estimate 7+/8-
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed. a 2-a, rev. şi adăugită - Emilian Cristea, N. Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964 
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin Tour, Bucureşti, 2000
Sursă foto - Rupi

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 26' 15.9" E 25° 29' 59.3"    
Access route: It comes from the Vâlcelul Hide (Vâlcelul of Theodoru).
Retreat route: Rappel off the wall (1 of the booster with the half ropes 50-2 or a string), or you can choose the option of lowering the vâlcelul in the back, we get to the Clearing Co?tilei.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Margaretelor

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Fisura Margaretelor

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Fisura Margaretelor

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Map



GPS: N 45° 26' 15.9" E 25° 29' 59.3"    
Access route: It comes from the Vâlcelul Hide (Vâlcelul of Theodoru).
Retreat route: Rappel off the wall (1 of the booster with the half ropes 50-2 or a string), or you can choose the option of lowering the vâlcelul in the back, we get to the Clearing Co?tilei.

Equipment


Fisura Margaretelor

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