Muchia Strungii 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 16.09.2014
edited by Rupi la data de 13.09.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Type: Classic route

 Muchia Strungii 
Orientation: S
Length: 7 pitches
Climb duration: 5 - 6 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsOverhangCrackPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Dumitru Chivu, Matei Schenn
Date: 1964


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route is maintained, in part, on the edge of the heavily sloping down of the strungile Claii to the south. The asperity of the obstacles, highly varied, and the angle of the perspective it offers on the surrounding elements of the path, which is indicated only to climbers with technical skills are superior.

From the point at which the Girdle from the Top down to the last clump of spruce trees growing on the road, so you turn to the left (before crossing the vâlcelului), climb diagonally across the slope, green roof, and with reference to the base of the Chimney, Claii to which the split array is seen from a distance.

The first l. C. beginning in the vicinity of the big chimney, located on the right (as you look at the line for the rock climbing) and over the course of a sluice box grassy tall by 40 feet, on which we ca?aram by passing the cords through the 2 cams fixed on the trail. The belay station of the following at a point not far from a couple of overhangs above the line of the ridge.

Resuming the climb, (a 2-l. C.), we follow a breach of the close, between the two plates until the height of the chimney is narrow and easily accessible, what is lost on the vertical faces striated by cracks and chips. Following the line of greatest slope of the barrier, through 4 m of a beetle, on top of which, it's up to the last pin of the part; making sure we are in it by passing the string to the left, down slightly and to the right over a sharp edge, after which you proceed for approx. 3 m above a sloping front, up under the ceiling of the overhangs, where we can regroup, be supported in the stirrups, up on a platform on the narrow side.

In the sequel, the 3rd L. C. is carried out over a series of 4 overhangs are located at different distances. After passing all these obstacles through a number of the people, by right, be in a very exposed spot by the pool, on a ledge of sandstone.

4. L. C. short, they go through a small jump, to avoid the friction of the string. It is conducted over a high-rise is approx. 10 a. m, the front of which a few of the steps we use to support in the course of climbing.

After belay station, we avoid the by-pass to the left to the (5, l. C.), the first beetle, but the climb off the line, the higher the gradient, using for this portion of the grand prize, recessed into the wall, and after that, at the base of the chimney in the open, there's a problem.

The last l. C. (6 i. C.), we will show you the chimney, a high of 5 to 6 m, which, coming from a wider one, that, follow it to the left side, and your at the end of the 40 feet of string get out of here.

Continuing the advance along the brânei (7-to l. C.), we're a point of interrupting the course of using the insurance for two hands, after which the route is over through a series of obstacles all the easier, and on the Edge of the Claii Great.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 53.2" E 25° 30' 20.6"    
Access route: Follow the Log Path to the Howlers; it would lead-after an hour in the "Bend". From there, after a series of switchbacks, the road continues on the level, and after approx. 10 minutes away from the Spider reaches the V-shaped Treasures. Leaving the Road, Howling, we're on the right tavelgul the Valley of the Treasure, and led directly to the or, bypassing the obstacles along the way.

Soon, the valley and the confluence with the Comorlle Brânei, coming down from the left as you go up). Our route follows in the next thread on the right, referred to as the Valley of the Treasures of the Clali, where the map scale in the lower intervals of the three jumpers. Soon, we arrive at the confluence of a small valley, descending to the right (how to get) the bottom of it we can distinguish, at a distance of approx. The 80 feet higher.

Parasind the main story, we follow the valley upwards for a distance of approx. 60 m to the right of a hollow (from the left), from which a small spring is resfira the waters over the stones of the wall. From there, to the right, up slightly on the hata?ul the Book at the Top, with the left side wall of the slit vertically from the Chimney of the Sea in the Spring. Identify the line of the route, the 23rd of August, even in the inflection of the wall, in a dihedral-crack, with a lot of grass. From here, it was 7-8 feet to the left, on the front, you see the first few hands of Aurel Irimia.

Ha?a?ul it continues to the east, the elevation increased, and a few yards farther on it reaches the right of the small terraces, which housed the camp of teams that have scaled the first tracks on the wall. From there the belt enters you in the grand amphitheatre of the wall, and after approx. A 100-m reach, under one of the cracks that cross the wall over the entire height and which forms the line of the Route Gen?ianei. Moving in the same direction, we can distinguish in the distance, a crack of similar to that of the path of the previous, this one being the 25th of December.

On the last platform to end a meeting, coboâm in the of valley grass, which we are at the top, covering the spintecatura deep end of the Funnel Claii Great. It is approx. 40 m from the base of the chimney, on the left, some inspired grass is the first part of the route the Edge of the Strungii.
Access duration: 2 - 3 hours
Retreat route: Go in the Middle of Mark up in the Jepii Large or Jepii Small (up to the left or the right, as you prefer) and head down for the tour up in the Logs.
Retreat duration: 2 hours

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Muchia Strungii

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Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 53.2" E 25° 30' 20.6"    
Access route: Follow the Log Path to the Howlers; it would lead-after an hour in the "Bend". From there, after a series of switchbacks, the road continues on the level, and after approx. 10 minutes away from the Spider reaches the V-shaped Treasures. Leaving the Road, Howling, we're on the right tavelgul the Valley of the Treasure, and led directly to the or, bypassing the obstacles along the way.

Soon, the valley and the confluence with the Comorlle Brânei, coming down from the left as you go up). Our route follows in the next thread on the right, referred to as the Valley of the Treasures of the Clali, where the map scale in the lower intervals of the three jumpers. Soon, we arrive at the confluence of a small valley, descending to the right (how to get) the bottom of it we can distinguish, at a distance of approx. The 80 feet higher.

Parasind the main story, we follow the valley upwards for a distance of approx. 60 m to the right of a hollow (from the left), from which a small spring is resfira the waters over the stones of the wall. From there, to the right, up slightly on the hata?ul the Book at the Top, with the left side wall of the slit vertically from the Chimney of the Sea in the Spring. Identify the line of the route, the 23rd of August, even in the inflection of the wall, in a dihedral-crack, with a lot of grass. From here, it was 7-8 feet to the left, on the front, you see the first few hands of Aurel Irimia.

Ha?a?ul it continues to the east, the elevation increased, and a few yards farther on it reaches the right of the small terraces, which housed the camp of teams that have scaled the first tracks on the wall. From there the belt enters you in the grand amphitheatre of the wall, and after approx. A 100-m reach, under one of the cracks that cross the wall over the entire height and which forms the line of the Route Gen?ianei. Moving in the same direction, we can distinguish in the distance, a crack of similar to that of the path of the previous, this one being the 25th of December.

On the last platform to end a meeting, coboâm in the of valley grass, which we are at the top, covering the spintecatura deep end of the Funnel Claii Great. It is approx. 40 m from the base of the chimney, on the left, some inspired grass is the first part of the route the Edge of the Strungii.
Retreat route: Go in the Middle of Mark up in the Jepii Large or Jepii Small (up to the left or the right, as you prefer) and head down for the tour up in the Logs.

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Muchia Strungii

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