25 Octombrie 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 16.09.2014
edited by Ad Mini la data de 13.09.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Type: Classic route

 25 Octombrie 
Orientation: S
Length: 11 pitches
Climb duration: 4 - 6 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsTraverseChimneyGrassLoose rocksPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Matei Schenn, László Karácsonyi, Petre Cristina
Date: 1964


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route, which bears the name of the Day of the Armed Forces of the people's Republic of romania is listed among the routes of the alpine difficult. Out of the 11 the length of a chord of the route to 7 is carried out over a series of obstacles, very difficult, which makes the climbing, it will not be accessible, than solely the mountaineers with technical skills are superior.

The entrance to the trail is located at the eastern end of the premium-thirds of the amphitheater and opens at the base of the Tip All that Great.

The first l. C. following the initial crack, green roof, to a height of 8 m, which, after a traverse to the right, fig. The 4-m to get a face oblique to the left, at the base of the chimney is open.

In a 2-l. C., climb the chimney, which, after about 20 meters, getting lost in the wall. From this point on, and after a passage of 2 meters to the right, we climb through a crack that goes from the diagonal line to the left, at the end of that meeting the first platform in the pool.

In the course of the 3-l. C. passing a first portion covered with the balls of your feet instead of grass, what's coming off very, very quickly, is uncertain. At the end of its run, a cross short to the right in order to catch those that go forward for 15 meters. Obstacles to each other on the last track are very diverse (for a beetle, a rock of sandstone, and then the passage that we're going through an indoor-free, very soft). The platform of the pool, which is located at approx. 25 km from the start on the length of the string, we can't touch it only after you run it through a 2 km on the left.

Leaving the platform, (4-to l. C.), climb a vertical face, around and then around to the left, a wall overhangnt, and after that move down the line of the greatest slope, until the height of one's waist to suck what heat the Wall of the Claii, where there's a problem.

5, l. C. passes over a series of small vertical obstacles spaced out over a height of 10 feet. With a crossing of 6 metres to the left, we can make it there on one side, green roof; go through it at an angle in the same direction, after which we'll regroup at a point marked by a pin.

In the formulae (6-l. C.), across the horizontal plane to the left of the face of the tiles on a distance of 20 feet. Add to that the passage follows a sinuous line, on which the head of the branch, and the first officer are forced to go through.

After the pool, climb the next (the 7th l. C.) the vertical face of the wall, on approx. 15 m. the route diverges and then back to the left. In this part we meet an obstacle, overhangnt the sandstone is very crumbly, just above that, at about 8 a. m, get out of here.

8. L. C. begins with a free passage to the left which leads, after 3 km, at the base of the chimney is open. After the climb of the direct, and the passage of small porches we'll get on to the platform from the pool.

The following l. C. (9 i. C.) is on his way up from starting out through a chimney, closed, and vertically long, of 12 to 14 m, over which the advancing is a very difficult task. Kind of nepitonat, present in the upper part is a beetle of the tile, on top of which, a short distance away, we can bring together.

10. L. C. urrneaza a length of approx. Up to 15 m, and then the front of green roof, is devoid of technical difficulties, on which we get easily by using the 40 m-chord.

The last entry (11-L. a. C.), basic, get in their faces, at times with grass, which eventually end up on the Edge of the Claii Great.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism ed 2 - N. Dimitriu, Emilian Cristea, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 23' 53.2" E 25° 30' 20.6"    
Access route: Follow the Log Path to the Howlers; it would lead-after an hour in the "Bend". From there, after a series of switchbacks, the road continues on the level, and after approx. 10 minutes away from the Spider reaches the V-shaped Treasures. Leaving the Road, Howling, we're on the right tavelgul the Valley of the Treasure, and led directly to the or, bypassing the obstacles along the way.

Soon, the valley and the confluence with the Comorlle Brânei, coming down from the left as you go up). Our route follows in the next thread on the right, referred to as the Valley of the Treasures of the Clali, where the map scale in the lower intervate three jumpers. Soon, we arrive at the confluence of a small valley, descending to the right (how to get) the bottom of it we can distinguish, at a distance of approx. The 80 feet higher.

Parasind the main story, we follow the valley upwards for a distance of approx. 60 m to the right of a hollow (from the left), from which a small spring is resfira the waters over the stones of the wall. From there, to the right, up slightly on the hata?ul the Book at the Top, with the left side wall of the slit vertically from the Chimney of the Sea in the Spring. Identify the line of the route, the 23rd of August, even in the inflection of the wall, in a dihedral-crack, with a lot of grass. From here, it was 7-8 feet to the left, on the front, you see the first few hands of Aurel Irimia.

Ha?a?ul it continues to the east, the elevation increased, and a few yards farther on it reaches the right of the small terraces, which housed the camp of teams that have scaled the first tracks on the wall. From there the belt enters you in the grand amphitheatre of the wall, and after approx. A 100-m reach, under one of the cracks that cross the wall over the entire height and which forms the line of the Route Gen?ianei.

Moving in the same direction, we can distinguish in the distance, a crack of similar to that of the path of the previous, this one being the 25th of December.
Access duration: 2 - 3 hours
Retreat route: Go in the Middle of Mark up in the Jepii Large or Jepii Small (up to the left or the right, as you prefer) and head down for the tour up in the Logs.
Retreat duration: 2 hours

Pictures


25 Octombrie

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25 Octombrie

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Map



GPS: N 45° 23' 53.2" E 25° 30' 20.6"    
Access route: Follow the Log Path to the Howlers; it would lead-after an hour in the "Bend". From there, after a series of switchbacks, the road continues on the level, and after approx. 10 minutes away from the Spider reaches the V-shaped Treasures. Leaving the Road, Howling, we're on the right tavelgul the Valley of the Treasure, and led directly to the or, bypassing the obstacles along the way.

Soon, the valley and the confluence with the Comorlle Brânei, coming down from the left as you go up). Our route follows in the next thread on the right, referred to as the Valley of the Treasures of the Clali, where the map scale in the lower intervate three jumpers. Soon, we arrive at the confluence of a small valley, descending to the right (how to get) the bottom of it we can distinguish, at a distance of approx. The 80 feet higher.

Parasind the main story, we follow the valley upwards for a distance of approx. 60 m to the right of a hollow (from the left), from which a small spring is resfira the waters over the stones of the wall. From there, to the right, up slightly on the hata?ul the Book at the Top, with the left side wall of the slit vertically from the Chimney of the Sea in the Spring. Identify the line of the route, the 23rd of August, even in the inflection of the wall, in a dihedral-crack, with a lot of grass. From here, it was 7-8 feet to the left, on the front, you see the first few hands of Aurel Irimia.

Ha?a?ul it continues to the east, the elevation increased, and a few yards farther on it reaches the right of the small terraces, which housed the camp of teams that have scaled the first tracks on the wall. From there the belt enters you in the grand amphitheatre of the wall, and after approx. A 100-m reach, under one of the cracks that cross the wall over the entire height and which forms the line of the Route Gen?ianei.

Moving in the same direction, we can distinguish in the distance, a crack of similar to that of the path of the previous, this one being the 25th of December.
Retreat route: Go in the Middle of Mark up in the Jepii Large or Jepii Small (up to the left or the right, as you prefer) and head down for the tour up in the Logs.

Equipment


25 Octombrie

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