Today we celebrate 9 years since Colţii Foarfecii (Colţii Foarfecii) first ascent, 1 year since Ignorance is bliss (Traseu bază) (Cheile Râşnovului) first ascent, 1 year since Ignorance is bliss (Traseu bază + extensie) (Cheile Râşnovului) first ascent

Fisura Scoruşilor 2B
0.00/5 (0 votes)




1941 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Diaries/Climbs (0)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Adi Min la data de 11.11.2017

General characteristics


Classic grade: 2B
Type: Classic route

 Sursă foto: Rupi 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N
Length: 2 pitches
Altitude: 2150 m
Height: 100 m
Climb duration: 1 - 2 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsCrackChimneyPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Madeleine Knapp, Toma Boerescu
Date: 23.08.1939


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route can be done in 1 long length of 60 m, or 2 of 30 km. The lengths were not clean, pools are made from 1 spit with mailon. The end of the length 2 is the hardest, being forced to cross the front a surplombi?a.
* * *
Description from the CAR:
To climb the crack on the front of the Scoru?ilor, it is going 40 m above the girdle coming from strunga of Marigolds, then to the left until at the base of the rift where to find a wider one, that of the grass comfortable. The crack at the base is narrow and the way we do things wet. We undertake the first steps on this crack, and then to the left on the front where it beat a python safety. We climb for about 10 km, until above the rift. Follow a chimney's short and easy, which ends on an edge having the right a wider one, that. Continue our way on a chimney vertical which passes in ramonaj, then the chimney widens in the shape of your face and once we cross this stretch get on a platform narrow. here we go 2 m on the front on the right where the beat a python and by a grand-deviation move to the left in a chimney, broad and vertical. After 5 km, these is closed by a beetle, which, to be last requires the minting of a python on the left edge where we then overhanging climbing. Above surplombei the chimney is composed of two cracks. Continue up the crack to the left that leads us in struga Shoulder Marigolds.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism editia a 2-a - Emilian Cristea, N. Dimitriu, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Niculae Baticu- Fisura Scoruşilor din Umărul Gălbenelelor, Buletinul CAR anul VII nr. 4/1939, pag. 103-104

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: It climbs to the Refuge of the Co?tila Valley Co?tilei, crosses the Valley of Marigolds, which keep going up in Strunga Marigolds. From here, descend and turn left. Get either the mountain ash, or on the faces of the grass next to the valley, then do it again the left directing us to crack big ends in Strunga Shoulder.
Retreat route: All trails ends in Strunga Shoulder. From here we can:
- to keep up in the Girdle of the High Co?tilei (portion rarely frequented and crumbly). It is recommended to have the new pitons and hammer.
- 4 boosts of 30 m up to the trail that connects the Valley of the mountain ash of Strunga Marigolds. The first booster is recommended to be done immediately under the Strunga Shoulder (to 5 m below), on a platform of 2mx2m, otherwise we risk to block the strings in the chimney below us. All rapelurile are made of expansion bolts with mailon.
- 4 boosters for 30m on the Crack of Calendula, from the pools its + one from a single spit with rope.

Descends then on the Valley of Marigolds or combine with the Chimney of the Fire, up to the crossing into the Valley of Co?tilei and Refuge Co?tila.

Topo

Topo

Fisura Scoruşilor
Fisura Scoruşilor

Pictures


Sursă foto: Rupi

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursă foto: Rupi

Users who wish to climb the route


Chereches Cristian

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: It climbs to the Refuge of the Co?tila Valley Co?tilei, crosses the Valley of Marigolds, which keep going up in Strunga Marigolds. From here, descend and turn left. Get either the mountain ash, or on the faces of the grass next to the valley, then do it again the left directing us to crack big ends in Strunga Shoulder.
Retreat route: All trails ends in Strunga Shoulder. From here we can:
- to keep up in the Girdle of the High Co?tilei (portion rarely frequented and crumbly). It is recommended to have the new pitons and hammer.
- 4 boosts of 30 m up to the trail that connects the Valley of the mountain ash of Strunga Marigolds. The first booster is recommended to be done immediately under the Strunga Shoulder (to 5 m below), on a platform of 2mx2m, otherwise we risk to block the strings in the chimney below us. All rapelurile are made of expansion bolts with mailon.
- 4 boosters for 30m on the Crack of Calendula, from the pools its + one from a single spit with rope.

Descends then on the Valley of Marigolds or combine with the Chimney of the Fire, up to the crossing into the Valley of Co?tilei and Refuge Co?tila.

Equipment


Sursă foto: Rupi

Comments