Cangurul Şchiop (Kangaroo Lame) 4B
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 01.03.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Rotpunkt grade: 8-
Quickdraws: Twenty
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro 
Length: 4-5 pitches
Climb duration: 100 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchors

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, István Szöllősi
Date: 1999


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

It is a variant on the route Turnu Babylon, from the desire to exploit as much wall clean (but totally devoid of cracks and impossible to pitonat classic). The portion pointing on the face, can be taken apart, like the rock climbing wall (piece of and was landscaped from top to bottom); but, we recommend parcurgera full route (with exit through the Turnu Babylon).

LC 1 (30 m, 7+): the First length begins relexat, on one side with sockets large enough. Once it goes above the level of the vegetation, the face becomes more flushed. Following a deviation little to the left, and then again slightly to the right. Before the slight deviation to the right, it's a belly, below which, there are too few sockets (here many deviates too much to the left, remaining without insurance). Step is hard enough, but it makes the balance. Immediately after the belly, it's the next spit, but, spitul not seen until after the step. Under the belly, it is just a spit away, but until that spit, there are 2-3 more expansion bolts (so , attacked without care, straight up). After other 2-3 insurance, start traverseul to the right. In the middle of the traverseului, we have a pool (the length is not too stretched). Pool has a spit with ear large, triangular (for an eventual booster), along with a spit normal. A little to the right, is spitul of departure in the continuation of the traverseului, so, enough for a belay station pretty sure.
LC 2 (25 m, 8-): Traverseul continues a few metres to the right, and then climb in a dihedral a little exposed. On the dihedral, the assurances are sufficiently thick (up to 2m), the route line is so very clear. We go a step difficult enough, and then another one, more mind and two ears that go around on python (making insurance more difficult), but, on the whole, the passage (although claimed), it can approach without hesitation. After the dihedral, it follows a the front easy down (and with sockets generous), but that, occurs and the grass. After that, we will intersect with Turnu Babylon. From the left comes the string of pitons along the traverseu , which continues to the right. Regrouping is clear as can be : a large ring and a spit with ear triangular.
Who wants just that, a rock climbing short, can make the booster. In this variant, I get 15 loops and a chord of 50 m. The rock is very little friabia, the route line is beautiful, the movements are natural, it solves many passages in the balance, but the need and force of the fingers on the plugs small, it is a solution.
For the other climbers, we recommend the continuation of the normal, through Babylon, where two of the ceilings is very stylish (especially the first), and spectacular (it is gaining height, and the view from above the Gorge grows).
LC 3 (20 m, 5-): it Is common with the Tower of Babylon, I mean, we continue traverseul what comes in from the left (and is, those more than 50 m LC 2 of Babylon), respectively, across the 20 m to the right, up under a ceiling. Below 3 m, and to the right by 2 m, is the belay station of the Youth (carefully, don't confuse the routes). We regroup right under the ceiling (on the left).
LC 4 (25 m, 7+): Follow a point very aesthetic and spectacular; go to the right, right under the ceiling, on the sockets inverse, then, we start in the bavarian overhanging climbing from the lip of the ceiling (load your legs) to get out at the end on the plugs fine, on the face of the above. After a few meters, we can breathe a little brâna, under a small beetle; get and beetle, after that, the rock gets a little down (and with plugs suitable). Continue without problems on the ridge (on the right, a few meters, you see the rings of Youth). Then, we move to the right of the ridge, on a short portion of the horizontal, after that, regroup on the right, on a threshold convenient, under a tavanel. To the right, you see the rings of the Soros (and other trails in the Amphitheater, which come out all on there, including of Youth).
LC 5 (25 m, 6+): we Continue up, a little to the left, on a dihedral, clean up under the tavanel; cross short to the right, get the balance on a face and, after a few meters, get (comfortable) the ridge on the left. Further, the route leads located on a tank (a little to the right), where it ends all the trails in the area. Here, the way up in the woods, it is done without any problem.Obviously, you can opt for two lengths stretched well (50 m), jumping over R1 and R3, + exit (up top in the woods – other 35m), but the rope is so hard, and sometimes missing visual (and even auditory) between teammates.
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-canguru-schiop
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/19.%20Cangurul%20%C8%98chiop.pdf
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinismbihor.ro/page/peretele-zanelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall heading upstream until where you meet a light railway and a box of the transformer. In the left you can see a trail that descends and then continues to the right with a scree. The entrance to the trail is towards the left after you go down
the railroad, and from here, climb up to the left oblique about 30 m up from the base of the wall where we can find the inscription with the name of the route. The trail starts from the trailhead, on some jumpers earth metals to the left (here and there get fixed some small cords - for balance and in case of mud). Then, we go on a valley to the right,
up at the base of a small cave, near a tree. Leaning a little to the right, leaving the route of Youth, and straight up, (to the left of the cave), go our route.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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Map



GPS: N 4,69874034846212E+15°0.0' E 2,25158726915283E+15°0.0'    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall heading upstream until where you meet a light railway and a box of the transformer. In the left you can see a trail that descends and then continues to the right with a scree. The entrance to the trail is towards the left after you go down
the railroad, and from here, climb up to the left oblique about 30 m up from the base of the wall where we can find the inscription with the name of the route. The trail starts from the trailhead, on some jumpers earth metals to the left (here and there get fixed some small cords - for balance and in case of mud). Then, we go on a valley to the right,
up at the base of a small cave, near a tree. Leaning a little to the right, leaving the route of Youth, and straight up, (to the left of the cave), go our route.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall.

Equipment


Quickdraws: Twenty
Cams and nuts: Twenty
Additional equipment: Twenty
Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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