Babilon (Babylon) 4A
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 01.03.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4A
Rotpunkt grade: 7+
Quickdraws: Fifteen
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro 
Length: 4 pitches
Height: 100 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchors

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Gina Paută
Date: 1986
Repaired date: 1999


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1 (30m, 7-): Browse to the arcuate line of a grows quite technical, then some thresholds (sometimes with grass) and a short dihedral, which takes us on a threshold convenient, next to a tree, where it can regroup.
LC 2 (50m, 6-): Follows a succession of diedre and thresholds, with a tendency always to the right, after which follows a long traverseu of 30 m to the right, at first on the faces of the fallen, then on the rapids (some descendants), until under a ceiling well-defined, what should be deleted a short dihedral. The length it is stretched (over 50m), but harder for the second (especially if the head jumps over some insurance – pendulum dangerous). In the middle traverseului, the route meets (coming from below), the line of pitons from Kangaroo Lame (the two routes, continues then practically clasped, from this point). If the rope is too short (or hard), the head of the chord can regroup provisional at this point (the junction of the Kangaroo and the Lame); and the first mate, get up start traverseul (where belay station provisional). Now, the two have re-established eye contact, and the head, can continue light, up under the ceiling, where belay station permanently (and then, bring it and xo). Three meters below, and two feet to the right, is the belay station of the Youth (attention not to deviate from the route).
LC 3 (25m, 7+): Traverse to the right, right under the ceiling, in a bavarian overturned, and from the lip of the ceiling, we are embarking on a dihedral open (and easy overhangt), followed by an exposed face, with tiny plugs. Then, after a wider one, that small and uncomfortable, go a little beetle, and get on to the ridge (on the right, a few meters, you can guess the rings of Youth). Continue on the ridge, over jumpers and skirts, the catch on the right a portion of the ridge horizontal, which brings us (on the right), on a girdle of the chest of drawers, in the right of a dihedral (crossed out, above, a tavanel). To the right a few feet, a line of pitons through which comes out the route to Soros (and Eva, and Youth and others).
LC 4 (25m, 6+): climb the dihedral, slightly to the left, cross short to the right under the tavanel, out on a front a bit overhangta, and catch the ridge on the left. Here the rock lose of verticality and continue until the nose have anything to do that, right , come for the pool and the rest of the routes in the Amphitheater (the pool is common to all – Soros, Tinere?tii, Eva, Wild Rose and many others). Here, the exit to the forest is done without any problems.
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-turnu-babilonului
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/18.%20Turnu%20Babilonului.pdf
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinismbihor.ro/page/peretele-zanelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The route is located towards the right front of the Wild Cherry at approx. 20 m. The entry in the route is
actually on one leg of a ridge that descends as a wedge between the routes from the Eyes of the Owl and this area.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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Map



GPS: N 4,69874034846212E+15°0.0' E 2,25158726915283E+15°0.0'    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The route is located towards the right front of the Wild Cherry at approx. 20 m. The entry in the route is
actually on one leg of a ridge that descends as a wedge between the routes from the Eyes of the Owl and this area.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall.

Equipment


Quickdraws: Fifteen
Cams and nuts: Fifteen
Additional equipment: Fifteen
Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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