Cireşul Sălbatic (Wild Cherry) 5B, 9- (A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 01.03.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 9-
Quickdraws: 20-25
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro 
Length: 5-6 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsOverhang

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Teodor Borodan
Date: 1986
Repaired date: 1999
First rotpunkt ascent: Ghiţă Pop


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The route was pitonat in alpine style, in the year 1986 being completed by Adrian Pauta and Theodore Borodan and aimed, a line pair with Anonimus, i.e. (respectively) overhanging climbing from the Eye (left) Owl.
The ceiling in our route, I mean from the Eye of the (law of) Owl is large (close to 20 m – with beetle exit), but, doesn't open on top of the steep slope, but above a cherry savage from Poiana Suspended (hence the name of our route).
As far as we know, the ceiling would have been way to free (Ghita Pop, not at first, but after working repeatedly of the passage); so here's a real challenge to walk the route. We do not recommend to unite lengths, because the friction of the rope can become excessive.
LC 1 (30m, 6+): the First length (was pitonata in the winter of 1985), starts on a face a little flushed, exceeds the crest oblique to the right, then straight up a dihedral (sometimes grass), after that, we traverse back across the ridge (5-6 metres horizontally to the left), until a threshold is convenient, where you can regroup.
LC 2 (35m, 7-): we Continue up, over a succession of flats with small areas overhangte, all slightly to the left (and pass nice to free); the two-flat end, with the rock clean, lead (slightly to the right) up under the lip of the vegetation, what is a reflection over the steep, Glade Suspended. Here regroup.
LC 3 (25m, 5+): the Exit to the glade is quite difficult, for that above the wall is an eternal scree unstable, doubled by a shrubbery aggressive (once the area was always cleaned). In the left diedrului, it's a python hiding from that (at first at least,) the output was/is easier. Get so on the scree, up under a tree (with a python stuck on a branch), after which, we cross the meadow rolled away (all the debris), oblique to the left, until under the ceiling of the Eye (as of) Owl. There we meet the trail Intesectat, which comes (on near wall) of the left and the leaves (all near the wall) to the right (coming out on the next valley to the right). To the left with 15-20 m, is overhanging climbing from Anonimus, I mean the Eye (left) Owl. But regroup under the ceiling of the Eye (right) Owl, next to a rock massive in the meadow (from here we will better see the maneuvers of the head of the chord, especially the exit from the ceiling).
LC 4 (20m, 9-?): We start on a dihedral open, which ends in the bottom of the ceiling. From here we cross to the right “with the ceiling in the head”, carefully choosing the outlets of the legs. Here I found some pitons old, but who did not dare exit from the ceiling (the key point of the whole route). The ceiling ends with a beetle in which we find two hourglasses healthy, with the help of which we go out into the wall. At the end of the portion overhangte , we find brought together in a crack horizontally, on the right. There's no point to continue without belay station (although the length is a little short), because, and so, the rope is hard enough.
LC 5 (30m, 7-): we Continue a few meters up, after which, follows the Little Traverseu (i.e. 8-10 m to the left on the face from above the ceiling). At the beginning, we cross a crack, and then, on the thresholds of successive, cross and a valley (a little grassy), and we get to regroup on a threshold convenient (under a crest of the spur).
LC 6 (35m, 5+): the Trail loses in difficulty, but wins in the beauty and spectacularity (underneath is seen creeping Cris in the gorge – we are no longer strictly above the Clearing Suspended, and the view opens up spectacular). Go through the mathematical line of the ridge, which toward the end lose of verticality, going over thresholds successive, and, in the end, regroup on a threshold convenient (on this threshold, it then exits located in the woods, slightly to the right).
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-ciresu-salbatic
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/17.%20Ciresul%20Salbatic.pdf
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinismbihor.ro/page/peretele-zanelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The trail can be access on the railway in the place where they see the two large overhangs which resemble the eyes of owl and nicknamed the “Eyes of the owl” and right under the area where the eye sees the smaller, the one on the right. The route lies on the right of the route Anonimus at approx 30 km. climbing a little upstream on the base of the route.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall.

Topo

Topo

Cireşul Sălbatic
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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Map



GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The trail can be access on the railway in the place where they see the two large overhangs which resemble the eyes of owl and nicknamed the “Eyes of the owl” and right under the area where the eye sees the smaller, the one on the right. The route lies on the right of the route Anonimus at approx 30 km. climbing a little upstream on the base of the route.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall.

Equipment


Quickdraws: 20-25
Cams and nuts: 20-25
Additional equipment: 20-25
Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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