Today we celebrate 2 years since Prâslea (Faleza La Poveşti) first ascent.  

Anonimus (Anonimus) 6A
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  • Diaries/Climbs (2)
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 01.03.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 9+
Quickdraws: 20-25
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro 
Length: 6-7 pitches
Height: 120 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Teodor Borodan, Marius Vecan
Date: 1986
Repaired date: 1999


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1 (25 m, 7+): the Trail starts common with the route Viktoria (which goes obliquely to the left, “intersecting” additional route Intersected the original). We start at the top, on a dihedral crossed out by a tavanel, cross under the tavanel on the right, then on a face up, up to an hourglass healthy located in a niche, from where, across the tiny plugs a few meters to the right, where we catch a rift that takes us out on a small threshold, quite cramped, where regroup.
LC 2 (30 m, 8-): From here we cross to the left on a face flushed, until a new hourglass, down 2 meters on a threshold turf, after that, we cross to the left on the lip of a ceiling, till we get a crack that goes easy overhangnt and left oblique. It follows a clean face, with the plugs anyway, which takes us on a threshold convenient, in a small niche.
LC 3 (40 m, 6+): get Out of the pool on a dihedral that starts a little overhangt, at the end of the diedrului, go to the right on the ridge, continue on the ridge, after which we cross obliquely left up on a time. From here we cross the Glade Suspended until the base of the wall under the Eye (left) Owl. At this point, comes in from the left (near the wall) the trail Crossed, and travelling to the right (against the wall). Also, all of here, a face flushed get a line of gujoane old (trail Competition), which was superfinala to a Alpiniada. We, however, do 2-3 meters to the right and find a little crack, what goes up a threshold, from which we get out to the left, in a pulpit great, where do you start the beetle. Here regroup, even under the beetle.
LC 4 (20 m, 9+/A1): we Start at the top, on a dihedral washing and very exposed, catch a “curtain of stone” (an excellent outlet “pinched”), from which we cross the few meters to the left, on a face flushed (start the artificial). Further, the trail curves obliquely upward left, to a “beanie” hole vertically in the full beetle. From here, the trail curves upward (and more overhangnt), but to the right. Move on to the Nest of Eagles, another “hat” and higher ,”drilled” vertically (in full the ceiling this time). Hanging so in the hands (or forcing a degree of climbing great), find a cleft with a coconut as a helmet (beneath which it was once and a tendor of metal), after that, cross short to the right and go in the “hat” where the regroup (with feet atarnând in the blank – the first mate sees only the feet, for the bust of the head is stashed in the “hat”). Attention, belay station (hat) is a little small for 3 people, in which case, a second should be something below, in a python intermediate).
LC 5 (35 m, 9-): Out of the Nest of Eagles (pretty much impossible without artificial) crossing overhangnt to the left, then we go out on a face overhangta (where do we begin to find and sockets – so risk and without pitons), and continue up, having on the right a lane (with plenty of vegetation) and on the left a face flushed and overhangta (here were the 2 pitons old – at the end of the hall, on the left). Then, something a little more up front from the left is split by a crack clear a cross to the left until almost on the ridge (Grand Traverseu). We are committed on this rift (in that we kind of fit and fingers) and cross to the left 15-20 m, i.e., the whole face flushed and overhangta above the Eye (left) Owl, up on the ridge. Note that before the ridge, about 3-4 meters, the Great Traverseu is intersected by the route Victoria, who comes out in top (on an aisle). Many, belay station before the ridge, and out on the aisle. But the line of the route Anonimus passes the line of pitons from Viktoria, still 3-4 meters to the left, then the lower 2 meters on a dihedral, in a niche on the ridge, being completely suspended above the gorge. Here regroup.
LC 6 (30 m, 6+): we Cross the ridge to the left a few meters, coming out in the Wall of the Large (front of the compact above the Cave at the Home of the Kite – in the lower left, is seen the Nest of Swifts) and, we then oblique ascendant to the left. Outlets are appearing with more and more generosity, then, orient ourselves up, on the doorsteps (more occurs and vegetation). Continue up to the end of a dihedral open, oriented in the right-hand side, and where ends the wall of the compact. Can continue (without belay station), on the thresholds îneierbate (up in the woods), but you risk hardly blame the rope and spoil the pleasure of the last lengths of rope. So, better regroup here.
LC 7 (20 m, 4+): get Out of the wall, in a small amphitheater with vegetation, continuing slightly oblique, and always to the right (looking thresholds rocky), and, at final, get out in the edge of the forest, in the highest rocky point of the Large Walls. The legs have the whole panorama of the gorge.
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-anonimus/
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/16.%20Anonimus.pdf
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinismbihor.ro/page/peretele-zanelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The trail can be access on the railway in the place where they see the two large overhangs which resemble the eyes of owl and nicknamed the “Eyes of the owl” and right under the area where the eye is visible more great. The route starts from the same place with the route Viktória and the Route Intersected.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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Diaries



Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 4,69874034846212E+15°0.0' E 2,25158726915283E+15°0.0'    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The trail can be access on the railway in the place where they see the two large overhangs which resemble the eyes of owl and nicknamed the “Eyes of the owl” and right under the area where the eye is visible more great. The route starts from the same place with the route Viktória and the Route Intersected.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall.

Equipment


Quickdraws: 20-25
Cams and nuts: 20-25
Additional equipment: 20-25
Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

Comments