Today we celebrate 49 years since Traseul Ciuboţica Ursului (Turnul Galben al Dianei) first ascent, 49 years since Fisura Galbenă (Brâul Ciorânga Mare) first ascent

Anonimus 6A, 9+ (A1)
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 20.05.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 6A
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 9+
Quickdraws: 20 to 25
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Adrian Paută 
Length: 6-7 pitches
Height: 120 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

5 star routePitonsMechanical anchorsCams/NutsAid climbingOverhangFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Teodor Borodan, Marius Vecan
Date: 1986
Repaired date: 1999


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC-1 (25 t, 7+): the Trail starts common the route of the Victoria (which goes obliquely to the left, the “crossing” an additional route for Cross – version of the original). We're on our way up, in a dihedral crossed by a tavanel, through, under tavanel to the right, then on one side at the top, by the glass, healthy, being in a niche market, where, through the outlets of the small, a few meters to the right, where you get a rupture, what we get is a small threshold small enough, where to be able to talk.
LC-2 (for 30 km, and 8-): From here we cross to the left, on one side, washed up on a new hourglass, and down to 2 metres, with a ceiling grass, and after that, cross over to the left, on the edge of a ceiling, until we can get it crack up easily overhangnt, and the skew to the left. Next, a clean face, with the prize finally, we get a threshold of comfortable into a small alcove.
LC-3 (40 m, 6+): Go in the pool on a dihedral that starts a little bit overhangt, at the end of the diedrului, go to the right of the top of the ridge, continue along the ridge, after which we cross obliquely the left, all the way to a good time. From here, cross the Meadow, Suspended at the base of the wall, under the Eye (left) of the Owl. At this point, it's coming from the left side (near the wall) the trail Passed, and that goes to the right side (over the wall). Also, it's all here, on one side, washed up a-line gujoane old (the route of the Competition), which has been superfinala a Alpiniada. We, however, do it about 2-3 feet to the right and find the crack that goes over a threshold, from which we go out to the left, in the pulpit, great start to the beetle. Here you can regroup, just below the beetle.
LC-4 (20 m, 9 a+/A1): we Start at the top, in a dihedral, washing, and so exposed, we'll get a “veil of stone” (a great outlet, “tick bite”), from which we cross the few feet to the left of, on the one side washed away (the artificial). Further on, the trail curves obliquely upward, left, to a “cap” perforated vertically in the middle beetle. From here, the trail curves upward (and more overhangnt), but to the right. Move on to the Eagle's Nest, a separate “hat” and larger , drilled vertically, (the full ceilings of the date of this direction). Hanging up, so in the hands (or, by forcing a high degree of climb great), we can find a couple of slits in it with a coconut as a helmet (as it used to and it's a tendor to the metal), and after that, we're short on the right and go into the “hat” where you can regroup (with my feet atarnând the goal – the second he sees just the feet, for a bust of his head is hiding in there in the “cap”). Beware, the pool (cap) is a bit small for 3 people, a situation in which, for a second I have to keep it down, a cam intermediate).
LC-5 (35 m, 9-a): coming out of the Eagle's Nest (pretty much impossible to do without the artificial) cross overhangnt to the left, and then go out on the front overhangta (where do we begin to find more and enables it to so take, without hands), and work our way up, with the right of a lane (with plenty of the vegetation) and in the left-hand side, the face flushed, and overhangta (this was the 2 hands of the old at the end of the hall, to the left). And then, something a little more up front, from the left, is split by a crack a clear that goes to the left, close to the peak (Great Traverseu). We are embarking on a rift in the fourth dimension (which we kind of fit in, and his fingers), and cross over to the left about 15-20 m, i.e., the whole face flushed, and overhangta from above his right Eye (the left of) the Owl up on the ridge. Please note that prior to the crest at about 3 to 4 meters, the Great Traverseu it is crossed by the route of the Victoria, which stands at the top (on the aisle). Many grouping just before the crest, and get out into the aisle. But the line of the route Anonimus cross the line by the hands of Viktoria, another 3-4 feet to the left, then the lower 2 feet away on a dihedral in a recess of the ridge, and is completely suspended above the gorge. Here, out of here.
LC-6 (30 m, 6+): we Cross the ridge to the left, a few feet away, sticking out in the Wall of the Sea (the front of the compact from the top of the Cave to the House of the Dragon on the left below us, we see a Nest of Them), and we then skew the ascendant to the left. Outlets are appearing with more and more generosity, then, we start by looking at the top, on the side skirts (the more it appears, and vegetation). We'll keep going until at the end of the dihedral, open-oriented, in the right-hand side, and where the end wall of the compact. You can continue to work (without belay station) on the thresholds of the îneierbate (into the woods), but you run the risk of this may be hard for the rope and spoil the fun of the last length of rope. So, you'd better come back here.
LC-7 in (20 m, 4+): coming out of the wall, in a small theatre, with the growing season, continuing to slightly oblique, and always to the right of it (looking for the thresholds of the rock), and, in the end, we're going out on the edge of the forest, on the highest point of the rocky wall of the Great. The feet have the whole of the panorama of the gorge.
Information source
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/16.%20Anonimus.pdf
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinismbihor.ro/page/peretele-zanelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, the access to the hotel is done out of the Forecast River from the stadium, and the sports, going upstream, until the area in question. The route to access the railroad from the place where you can see the two large overhangs which resemble the eyes of owl, dubbed the “Eye of the owl”, and right below the area where you can see the eye of the most high. The route starts at the same point as the route Viktória, and the Route of the Cross.
Retreat route: The last of the pool's continued ascent into the forest, where we meet the mark of the tourist spot of blue, and here we continue the trail down to the hall of sports.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: Adrian Paută

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Adrian Paută

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, the access to the hotel is done out of the Forecast River from the stadium, and the sports, going upstream, until the area in question. The route to access the railroad from the place where you can see the two large overhangs which resemble the eyes of owl, dubbed the “Eye of the owl”, and right below the area where you can see the eye of the most high. The route starts at the same point as the route Viktória, and the Route of the Cross.
Retreat route: The last of the pool's continued ascent into the forest, where we meet the mark of the tourist spot of blue, and here we continue the trail down to the hall of sports.

Equipment


Quickdraws: 20 to 25
Cams and nuts: 20 to 25
Additional equipment: 20 to 25
Sursă: Adrian Paută

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