Today we celebrate 48 years since Surplombele de Aur (Cheile Râşnovului) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 48 years since Traseul nr. 1 (Peretele Vanga Mare) first ascent.  

Inka Trail (Drumul Incașilor) (Inka Trail (The Road Of The Incas)) 5B
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 01.03.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5B
Rotpunkt grade: 8+
Type: Sport climbing

 Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro 
Length: 3 pitches
Height: 100 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

Mechanical anchors

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, István Szöllősi
Date: 1997


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The trail was conducted in the year 1997, the team Adrian Pauta and Stephen Szöllosi, as a complement to the routes Anonimus and Ciresu Wild, that not much could be done at the free, because of the large overhangs included in the trails (and the footrests have come to be regarded as “obsolete”). And then, he tried a line of route which avoids the immediacy of the passages in the artificial, but which, to undergo though the Great Wall of the Cave “the House of the Kite” (and especially, without “disturbing” other trails existing in the area – as has happened in other cases). One aspect with which the team of the premiere of no boasts, is that the arrangement has been made gender-trail hiking; I mean from top to bottom (and integral with the drill). However, he followed a line as more natural route. The lengths are stretched (LC 1 has nearly 60 m), of the desire to fragment as little as possible the pleasure of doing.
LC 1 (60 m, 8+): Starts from the trailhead, ascending and slightly to the right, on one side with poison ivy (once it was something more clean). From a niche, there is a ceiling with a prize key in my lip (the left hand), followed by a succession of faces with the plugs down, after which, the rock becomes more troubled, and after a little time, the route deviates a little to the right, on the small rapids down (and sometimes grass), until a threshold convenient (under a dihedral open), where the belay station is common with the route of Diana (the route that comes from the bottom, on the right side, and go straight up from the pool).
LC 2 (50 m, 8-): We don't go up, but cross to the left 4-5 meters, then all to the left, but gradually ascending, about 15 feet arched up (meet a belay station with chain decommissioned – used once for booster), after which, everything to the left, but accentuated the upward (and on the plugs fine) we engage in a full wall, above the Cave of the House of the Kite. Continue on to the wall exposed and with the sockets fine, slightly to the left, until we get below a dihedral, on the right a cave suspended in the full wall (the Nest of Swifts). From the bottom , on the left hand, comes a line of pitons (the route El Capitan) that passes directly through the grotto (with swifts) and “pricks” in our route. Us, we're in the right cave, climb the dihedron easy overhangt and plugs fine (attention not to be wet), and get out on some thresholds on two levels, on which we deviate a few yards to the left (cross above the cave), being able to climb on a threshold convenient, under a spur, where it can regroup.
LC 3 (40 m, 7+): we Keep only upward (but a little on the right), i.e. at 1-2 meters on the right front of the crest of the mathematics of the spur, and where, we find sufficient outlets. To the left, beyond the ridge (after other 1 – 2 meters), is the line of pitons in the route Path of the Tibetan, which comes out all on the spur (in belay station common with us). On the thresholds of the grass of the amphitheater on the right of the spur (which we climb), you can see the exits of Diana, the Grotto of the Fairies.
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-drumul-incasilor
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/11.%20Drumul%20Inca%C8%99ilor.pdf
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinismbihor.ro/page/peretele-zanelor

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The route is located to the right of the Grotto of the Fairies and to the left of the route Öcsi.
Retreat route: The withdrawal can be done through the forest on the plateau, or, one can descend (as to any route of climbing) in the booster: i.e., 2 boosters of 55 yards, including a belay station in the full wall washing and a little overhangt (total lack of outlets area), reaching at the end, in the middle of the Grotto of the House of the Kite (attention to the mixed-up string: the last 40 km are not touching the wall).

Topo

Topo

Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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Map



GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The route is located to the right of the Grotto of the Fairies and to the left of the route Öcsi.
Retreat route: The withdrawal can be done through the forest on the plateau, or, one can descend (as to any route of climbing) in the booster: i.e., 2 boosters of 55 yards, including a belay station in the full wall washing and a little overhangt (total lack of outlets area), reaching at the end, in the middle of the Grotto of the House of the Kite (attention to the mixed-up string: the last 40 km are not touching the wall).

Equipment


Sursă: alpinismbihor.ro

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