Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) (The route Coman (the Edge of the North-Eastern Shoulder of Marigolds)) 2B, 6/6+ (4, A0)
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 22.04.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 2B
Mandatory grade: 4
Aid climbing grade: A0
Rotpunkt grade: 6/6+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Mihai Sava 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N-E
Length: 6 pitches
Altitude: 2200 m
Height: 200 m
Climb duration: 2 - 3 hours
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsRidgeChimneyRecommendedFantastic

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Ionel Coman, Mircea Ismail
Date: 11.08.1940
First winter ascent: Ionel Coman
Date: 18.03.1951


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1: Start easily over some boulders, then continue on to a rift, where we have only 2 cams of the length. After clearing the section, continue on easy terrain (grade 2) until we have a big wall in front of us. From here we left and regrouped at the spiturile the end of the brânei. 40m, grade 4.

LC 2: go Around the edge and keep on the sills of grass and rock to the base of the chimneyule?ului above. Length easy without pitons. 20m, grade 3.

LC 3: the Step is right at the starting, protected by 1 python, then a spit. Continue on the chimney, climbing at the end over some large boulders, but which are well embedded. Short length, you can unite it with the previous one. Regroup on the ridge, a wider one, that of stone 2 expansion bolts. 15m, grade 6/6+,

LC 4: Go to the left, on easy terrain, consisting of the thresholds of the grass and the rock. We're going out again on the ridge and regroup up in a concavity larger, on the left side (on the right groove we have a chimney what constitutes the next length). 35m, grade 3.

LC 5: Traverse to the right, then up the chimney. Here we have a new step, protected by 3 pitons consecutive, all good. Keep on the chimney for another 10-12m, without nails, but easy and rock solid. Go to a belay station intermediate of Ro?cule?, 2 pitons, which we can skip. Continue on a new chimneyule?, easy and beautiful, bringing together up on the ridge, 2 expansion bolts on the right side. 50m, grade 6-.

LC 6: A booster of 10 m, then they get in 5-6 m on a chimneyule? up in the belay station of the bottleneck. 15 km, grade 4.
Information source
Bucegii Turism Alpinism Ed. a 2-a, rev. şi adăugită - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, 1964
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, Bucureşti, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: It climbs to the Refuge of the Co?tila Valley Co?tilei, crosses the Valley of Marigolds, which keep going up in Strunga Marigolds. The route starts right from the bottleneck. If we're careful we can see an arrow, which indicates the beginning and the direction of the route. All of the bottleneck we can see and the first piton.
Retreat route: All trails ends in Strunga Shoulder. From here we can:
- to keep up in the Girdle of the High Co?tilei (portion rarely frequented and crumbly). It is recommended to have the new pitons and hammer.
- 4 boosts of 30 m up to the trail that connects the Valley of the mountain ash of Strunga Marigolds. The first booster is recommended to be done immediately under the Strunga Shoulder (to 5 m below), on a platform of 2mx2m, otherwise we risk to block the strings in the chimney below us. All rapelurile are made of expansion bolts with mailon.
- 4 boosters for 30m on the Crack of Calendula, from the pools its + one from a single spit with rope.

Descends then on the Valley of Marigolds or combine with the Chimney of the Fire, up to the crossing into the Valley of Co?tilei and Refuge Co?tila.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor)
Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor)

Pictures


Sursă: Mihai Sava

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Mihai Sava

Users who climbed the route


Jabon - 30.07.2017, Vara
- 30.07.2017
Dorin Cristea - 14.04.2008, Vara
- 14.04.2008

Users who wish to climb the route


Anta
Andrei Vlad

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Mihai Sava - 09.02.2019

Video - Mihai Sava - 27.01.2018

Video - Lucian Gutu - 05.10.2009

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: It climbs to the Refuge of the Co?tila Valley Co?tilei, crosses the Valley of Marigolds, which keep going up in Strunga Marigolds. The route starts right from the bottleneck. If we're careful we can see an arrow, which indicates the beginning and the direction of the route. All of the bottleneck we can see and the first piton.
Retreat route: All trails ends in Strunga Shoulder. From here we can:
- to keep up in the Girdle of the High Co?tilei (portion rarely frequented and crumbly). It is recommended to have the new pitons and hammer.
- 4 boosts of 30 m up to the trail that connects the Valley of the mountain ash of Strunga Marigolds. The first booster is recommended to be done immediately under the Strunga Shoulder (to 5 m below), on a platform of 2mx2m, otherwise we risk to block the strings in the chimney below us. All rapelurile are made of expansion bolts with mailon.
- 4 boosters for 30m on the Crack of Calendula, from the pools its + one from a single spit with rope.

Descends then on the Valley of Marigolds or combine with the Chimney of the Fire, up to the crossing into the Valley of Co?tilei and Refuge Co?tila.

Equipment


Sursă: Mihai Sava

Comments