Today we celebrate 49 years since Traseul Ciuboţica Ursului (Turnul Galben al Dianei) first ascent, 49 years since Fisura Galbenă (Brâul Ciorânga Mare) first ascent

Calea Tibetană 5A, 8+
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 20.05.2020

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Rotpunkt grade: 8+
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Adrian Paută 
Length: 3 pitches
Height: 70 m
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsOverhang

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Vida Gyorgi
Date: 2002


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

A track (arrangement), published in 2002, the team made up of Adrian Pauta and Joanne-how old, as a solution to the practical abolition of the route you Fly (by the vandalism in tirolianei fixed, which was the LC-3 is in the path). He kept it like this from the top of the Flyer (which was done on the structure of the former route, the Customs and Salt for a long time, defunct); and the ridge, respectively, had been bound up in a straight line normal to the base of the wall. The arrangement of the lower part, it has been done largely from the top down (so it's not a very ethical one), and have found something to clean the old razle?ite, as a sign that there have been attempts on the left of the Cell, at the House of the Dragon.
LC-1 (40 m, 8+): the Trail starts from the same place as the Home of the Kite (to the left of the Cave is huge), gets the joint a few metres down on a ledge, where the House of the Dragon's cross to the left, and the Arabic cross to the right side. Up so skew to the right, into a small cave (which is included in the sea-cave), on some of the rapids down, and then cut over to the right, and go completely in the beetle, on the left (the cave of the sea). Even though the overhanging climbing is strong, plugs are good, and the rock is sound, thus giving the solution of rock-climbing. After about 15 feet, come up with a few hands of duplicate (from a pool mid-term), but the head of the string to go away (without belay station). In order not to rub the cord, it is absolutely necessary to use the loops for as long (some even half-a-metre or more). Continue so on the edge of the surplombei, the plugs are good (and the technical solutions of the beautiful). Overhanging climbing is gradually becoming less pronounced, but the scoops are getting smaller and smaller , and even on the lip, they are sometimes susceptible. If you add to that the fact that the string is ”coming from” quite difficult (+ fatigue is not a lot of room for the rest), all of which are such that, after the 40-metre vehicle is already out of your head, it'll stop on a pin under the lip, and to get second in the section with the rings duplicate (the belay station of the intermediate which is situated at 15 meters from the base). After the first officer has his shit together (the rings are doubled – from where it is re-established eye contact), head out of the beetle, on the one side and the sockets of fine (a bit crumbly), and after 4 or 5 meters, change just a little bit to the left (but don't fall into the vâlcelul grass – Vâlcelul of the Jungle), so that in the end, you cross over fully to the left, a wider one, that chest of drawers at the base of the spire. In the pool, you will see on the left, it's coming traverseul pitonat (by vâlcelul green), corresponding to LC-3 from Flyer (rings in question, replacing the zip-line, fixed-some other time – was stolen in the meantime), and the LC-3, you end up in the same place by the pool.
LC-2 (30, m, 6-): In the sequel, the difficulty is not as great as we keep around on the ridge of the spur (1 to 2 feet to the left of the crest of the calculus), we get a few more of the small-sided overhangte, but with the sockets, and then the wall falls down gradually, and can reach it without any problems on a low-threshold, where to be able to talk.
LC-3 (25 feet, 5-it): to Keep, relatively easy, on the crest of the spur, more on the left side of it (note that at 1 to 2 feet to the right of the crest of mathematics, there appear rings in the route of the Road of the Incas, and which brings together the common with the us, on the top of the spire). Without having to show any special problems, grouped on a spur.
Information source
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/7.%20Calea%20Tibetan%C4%83.pdf

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, the access to the hotel is done out of the Forecast River from the stadium, and the sports, going upstream, until the area in question. The beginning of the trail is done right from the House Zmaului, to the left of the entrance.
Retreat route: In the same way as in the case of the trail Road of the Incas, we descend through the forest, or if you have a jump rope twin, 60 yards, we can do a double booster (the last 40 feet are completely suspended, so it doesn't touch the walls – be careful of the chords, don't get mixed up!!). This way, we can get you down, directly to the base of the Cell, at the Home of the Kite (i.e. in the place where we left the trail).

Topo

Topo

Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: Adrian Paută

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursă: Adrian Paută

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, the access to the hotel is done out of the Forecast River from the stadium, and the sports, going upstream, until the area in question. The beginning of the trail is done right from the House Zmaului, to the left of the entrance.
Retreat route: In the same way as in the case of the trail Road of the Incas, we descend through the forest, or if you have a jump rope twin, 60 yards, we can do a double booster (the last 40 feet are completely suspended, so it doesn't touch the walls – be careful of the chords, don't get mixed up!!). This way, we can get you down, directly to the base of the Cell, at the Home of the Kite (i.e. in the place where we left the trail).

Equipment


Sursă: Adrian Paută

Comments