Calea Tibetană (The Path Of Tibetan) 5A
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 01.03.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 5A
Rotpunkt grade: 8+
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org 
Length: 3 pitches
Height: 70 m
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsOverhang

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Vida Gyorgi
Date: 2002


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

A route (fitting), conducted in 2002 by the team consisting of Adrian Pauta and Vida-how old, as a solution to the practical abolition of the route the Flier (by vandalizing tirolianei fixed, what represent LC 3 in that route). He kept the ridge from the top of the Flier (done on the skeleton of the former route Vama Sarii – long decommissioned); and the spur, respectively, was thus related in a line more natural with the base of the wall. The arrangement of the lower part, was made mainly by top-down (so it's not very ethical), and found something clean the old, razle?ite, a sign that there have been attempts on the left of the Grotto from the House of the Kite.
LC 1 (40 m, 8+): the Trail starts from the same place with the House of the Kite (to the left of the Cave is huge), gets the joint a few meters up on a threshold, where, the House of the Kite crossing to the left, and the Path of Tibetan crosses to the right. Up so skew to the right, into a small grotto (included in the sea-cave), on some rapids down, and then, cross to the right and go out completely in the beetle, on the left (from the grotto of the sea). Although the overhanging climbing is strong, plugs are good, and the rock is healthy, thus providing solutions for rock climbing. After about 15 metres, we find some pitons doubled (for a belay station interim), but, the head of the chord go away (without belay station). In order not to rub the rope, it is necessarily necessary to use loops as long (a few, even of half a meter or more). Continue so on the edge of the surplombei, the plugs are good (and with the technical solutions of the beautiful). Overhanging climbing is gradually becoming less pronounced, but, the outlets are becoming increasingly small , and even in the lip, they are sometimes brittle. If we add also the fact that the rope ”comes” hard enough (+ the accumulated fatigue you don't really have a place of rest), they all do that, after the 40 metres travelled already by head, this to stop a python from under the rim, and, to bring the xo point with the rings duplicate (regrouping intermediate located at 15 meters from the base). After second belay station (rings doubled – from where it restores and eye contact), head out of the beetle, on a front plugs fine (a little crumbly), and, after 4-5 metres, deviating only slightly to the left (but don't fall into vâlcelul grass – Vâlcelul the Jungle), because in the end, to cross completely to the left, a wider one, that chest of drawers, at the base of the spire. From the pool, see how on the left, comes traverseul pitonat (by vâlcelul full of vegetation), representing LC 3 of Birdman (the rings in question, replace the zipline fixed another time – stolen in the meantime), and that LC 3, end up in the same place by the pool.
LC 2 (30 m, 6-): still, the difficulty is not as high; continue approximately on the crest of the spur (1-2 yards to the left of the crest of math), get a few small faces overhangte, but with the plugs good, after that, the wall falls gradually, and get there without trouble on a small threshold, where the regroup.
LC 3 (25 m, 5-): Continue the relatively loosely on the crest of the spur, more on the left (note that, to 1-2 meters to the right of the ridge mathematical, appear rings of the trail Road of the Incas, and which brings together common with us, on the tip of the spur). Without appear special problems, regroup on the spur.
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-calea-tibetana/
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/7.%20Calea%20Tibetan%C4%83.pdf

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: In this area, the access the easier it is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The entry in the route is done right from the cave House Zmaului, to the left of the entrance.
Retreat route: The same as in the case of the route Ahead of the Incas, we descend through the forest, or, if we have a chord twin 60 meters, we can do a double booster (the last 40 feet are completely suspended, so it doesn't touch the wall – caution to the ropes, not to get mixed up!!). So we can descend directly to the Grotto from the House of the Kite (i.e., in the place where I left in the route).

Topo

Topo

Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

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Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

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Map



GPS: N 4,69874034846212E+15°0.0' E 2,25158726915283E+15°0.0'    
Access route: In this area, the access the easier it is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The entry in the route is done right from the cave House Zmaului, to the left of the entrance.
Retreat route: The same as in the case of the route Ahead of the Incas, we descend through the forest, or, if we have a chord twin 60 meters, we can do a double booster (the last 40 feet are completely suspended, so it doesn't touch the wall – caution to the ropes, not to get mixed up!!). So we can descend directly to the Grotto from the House of the Kite (i.e., in the place where I left in the route).

Equipment


Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

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