Casa Zmeului (The House Of The Kite) 3B, 7-
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added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 01.03.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Rotpunkt grade: 7-
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org 
Length: 5 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsRidgeDihedral

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Adrian Paută, Gina Paută
Date: 1988
Repaired: Adrian Paută, Răzvan Mosoiu
Date: 2002


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

LC 1 (25m, 3+): the Trail starts from the left Cave at the Home of the Kite (common with the Tibetan, but is oriented to the right; new times, go to the left, to the historic ruins). Climb a few metres on a threshold, and then, divert the lot to the left (to the right leaving the Path of Tibetan), after which, continuing the oblique ascendant on the aisle, reaching the historic ruins of the Customs of the Salt. Here you can regroup, or it can continue, making a length lying down (depends on how easy comes the rope; they lose visual contact).
LC 2 (25m, 7-): above the ruins, we start with care on a face easy overhangta, and catch a dihedral skew left, right overhangt (and apparently brittle), but, with sufficient outlets to find solutions beautiful climbing. Towards the end, the dihedron is open, becoming a face easy overhangta (an area something more delicate), which a overcome on the plugs small enough; after that, regroup on a pragule? quite cramped.
LC 3 (30m, 7-): we Continue ascending a few meters, after that, divert the ascendant right, the small thresholds (some grass), until we get out on the ridge. On the ridge, the difficulty decreases obviously (it's just a very sharp ridge), and after a few meters oriented obliquely left, regroup (again, depends on how the “coming“ of the rope), on a threshold fell (or, we can continue, still on the ridge, until a wider one, that).
LC 4 (20m, 3-): Continue on the ridge, the line is still down (and the grass more), until we get a wider one, that chest of drawers, under a small cave. Here comes the bottom-left (from the wall), the line of pitons in the case of wood strawberries (the Flier), and that, belay station in the same place. And to the right (crossing brâna), leaving the line pitonslor of L3 for the Flier. Straight up, on top of the small caves, it is the continuation of our route (common with the output of the current – and more secure – for the case of wood strawberries) . Initially, the route with strawberries sticking out to the left, on the doorsteps fallow and without pitons.
LC 5 (20m, 4+): we Continue so on above the cave (small – as a niche higher), straight up, and catch a crestuli?a with thresholds, sometimes fallow, until a threshold is convenient, next to a tree, where is the belay station of the final. Further out to free up in the woods.
With a chord long, we can skip R1 and R3, thus making the two lengths stretched (+ still a length to the exit to the forest). Depends on the option of the head of the chord and how easy it “comes” rope.
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/traseul-casa-zmeului
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/6.%20Casa%20Zmeului.pdf

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The entry in the route is in the left side of the Cave and left front of the Path of Tibetan, the first meters being common.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall. Or you can rappel.

Topo

Topo

Casa Zmeului
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

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Diaries & links



Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

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Map



GPS: N 46° 58' 13.4" E 22° 30' 52.9"    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall going towards upstream up in the area. The entry in the route is in the left side of the Cave and left front of the Path of Tibetan, the first meters being common.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall. Or you can rappel.

Equipment


Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

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