Today we celebrate 62 years since Muchia Estică (Matei Schenn) (Turnuleţul) first ascent.  Today we celebrate 46 years since Traseu fără nume (Peretele Răchitei) first ascent.  

Surplomba Mare (Overhanging Climbing High) 4B
0.00/5 (0 votes)




758 page views


  • Description
  • Pictures (1)
  • Videos
  • Map
  • Comments (0)
added by Ad Min la data de 02.11.2014
edited by Ad Min la data de 01.03.2018

General characteristics


Classic grade: 4B
Type: Technical rock climbing

 Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org 
Length: 2 pitches
Rock quality:
Fixed protection quality:
No. fixed protection:
View:
Frequented:

Summary

PitonsCams/NutsOverhangPitons and hammer

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: László Ille, Emeric Godza, Sándor Nagy, István Papp
Date: 1978


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

A line of route bold, which starts a little more complicated, but that then gets decided on the middle of the wall. The route has two lengths stretched (45m), with options to split into four short lengths to come up the rope more easily. We recommend, however, two lengths, for the benefit of the pool secure (and comfortable).
Taking into account the length of the route (and still nereamenajat) we recommend that the team desirous of completing his to have the hammer for checking pitonslor, as well as 2-3 mobile. The state pitonslor is pretty good (but still have “ciocanite” for control).
LC 1: we Start almost from the water, depends on how big is the lake at the base. A little to the left (2-3 km) starts and the route overhanging climbing Black (refurbished). After a few meters rising, we cross the lot to the right under the overhanging climbing sharp and taut; along the way we find and 2-3 niches with vegetation. Then on a small brâna, through a series of overhangs not really easy (area and kind of crumbly), till we get a crack why we pull out, slightly to the left, a wider one, that chest of drawers where you can regroup. More in the left, but on the same brâna, belay station and route overhanging climbing Black.
LC 2: on brâna start overhangt, get a crack, the niche, after which, overcome a beetle, and still follow a succession of cracks vericale. Then the route deviates a little to the right, the wall piezând gradually in difficulty from the beginning. The ceiling of the final leave him on the right, a crack by taking us slightly to the left, on some circus. Climb straight up on brânele from a small amphitheater (increased attention in the rain) and before you reach the first trees, we find landscaped a belay station chest of drawers, where the trail ends.
Information source
topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org - http://topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org/surplomba-mare/
alpinismbihor.ro - http://alpinism.ideaweb.ro/files/PDF-uri%20Zanelor/2.%20Nagy%20%C3%81thajl%C3%A1s(Surplomba%20Mare).pdf

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 46° 59' 14.6" E 22° 30' 57.1"    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall by going upstream up in the area. The trail is located at the beginning of the Walls Large. After we get through the cave Podireului II, approximately 70 m from the area in which the Walls start Large can be seen a beetle, and black. Even at the beginning of this portion starts the route.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall. Or you can rappel.

Topo

Topo

Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org
Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Pictures


Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Map



GPS: N 46° 59' 14.6" E 22° 30' 57.1"    
Access route: In this area, access the more easy is made of Vadu Crisului, at the stadium and the sports hall by going upstream up in the area. The trail is located at the beginning of the Walls Large. After we get through the cave Podireului II, approximately 70 m from the area in which the Walls start Large can be seen a beetle, and black. Even at the beginning of this portion starts the route.
Retreat route: From the last belay station continue the bullish towards the forest where we meet the mark tour blue dot, and here we keep on marking the descent up to the sports hall. Or you can rappel.

Equipment


Sursă: topo-vadu-crisului.cassiomontana.org

Comments