Today we celebrate 61 years since Trandafirul Negru (Peretele Mare din Padina Popii) first ascent

Traseul Roşculeţ (Muchia Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) 3B, 5c+ (4c+, A1)
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  • Description
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  • Diaries/Climbs (17)
  • Video (5)
  • Map
  • Equipment
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added by Ad Min la data de 01.10.2014
edited by Andrei Badea la data de 16.09.2019

General characteristics


Classic grade: 3B
Mandatory grade: 4c+
Aid climbing grade: A1
Rotpunkt grade: 5c+
Quickdraws: Ten
Type: Classic route

 Sursă: Mihai Sava 
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: N-E
Length: 5 pitches
Altitude: 2230 m
Height: 180 m
Climb duration: 3 - 4 hours
Rock quality: 
Fixed protection quality: 
No. fixed protection: 
View: 
Frequented: 
Best months:
JANFEBMARAPRMAYJUNJULAUGSEPOCTNOVDEC

Summary

PitonsMechanical anchorsChimneyGrassLoose rocksFantasticAbseil

First ascent and re-bolting

First ascent: Gheorghe Roşculeţ, Dinu Cunescu
Date: 1943


Route description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

We tie the rope to the base of the crack is not very noticeable.

LK 1: Start out by taking an easy right turn (1 m), and then, to top off a cracking flat with a lot of doorways for the grass. Prior to the step length, we have an anchor (the only one on the long). It goes on to a wider one, that of the grass, he walks 5 meters to the right, by the pool, on the left side of the 2nd expansion bolts. 35 km, grade 3+.

LK 2: Starts strong, quickly overhangt on the front of the top of the pool. The passage is 3 m, and a few on the 6/6+, the very well insured. Continue to the right, slightly upward, on a wider one, that of the rock at the base of the fissures, curved to left, for about 8 to 10 feet, well pitonata. Reform, on a platform of grass, at the base of the chimneyule? 2 expansion bolts on the right-hand side. The 35 meter high, grade 6/6+.

LC-3: it Is, it's going up on a chimneyule?/crack wider, but the plugs are always the best on the front on the left. In this section you will find 2-3 hands and some spit on the end of the chimneyule?ului. It stands on a small platform. It goes up a dihedral of about 10-12 m is provided with a 1 pin in the base, and then a spit, and a ball python at the end. They regroup at the ridge, very comfortable, 2 expansion bolts. A 30-m class-5.

LK 4: go for 1.5 m on the top of the pool, without my hands, and then the ridge becomes horizontal. Keep the chimneyule? (which I don't have hands). It would be nice to gather up on the ridge, at the end of the chimneyule?ului, before we return it, otherwise the strings will be rubbing very hard. Pooling of the 2 expansion bolts struck on the right hand side. A 40-m class-5.

LC-5: One dose of 10 feet, and then they get 5 to 6 m, on a chimneyule? by the bringing together of the gap. A 15-m-class-4.

In the mountain pass of the Shoulder, climbs on the ridge of the upper Shoulder of the Marigold (in the south), of which the line of the ridge leads us into the Middle of Co?tilei (whichever is used more often, it would be nice to have the hands), or the more likely it is down to a refreshing, long in the Valley of the Scoru?ilor.
Information source
Bucegi Turism Alpinism Ed. a 2-a, rev. şi adăugită - Emilian Cristea, Nicolae Dimitriu, Editura Uniunii de Cultură Fizică şi Sport, 1964
Munţii Bucegi Drumeţie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, Bel Alpin, Bucureşti, 2000

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: He goes up to the Refuge of the Co?tila the Valley of the Co?tilei, you have to cross the Valley, Marigold, who's a stay close to the mountain pass of Marigolds. 30 to 40 feet below the gap and then turn left on to the narrow strip Strungii, on the basis of the Shoulder of the Marigolds. It goes on a belt about 100 m until you reach a valley. It goes up to 10 km on it, and on the right side, you can see a flaw, is not very clear, fragmented by the many rapids of the pot. Here begins the trail. There is no anchor at the base, and not on the rift, I don't see it.
Retreat route: All of the trails over the mountain pass over the Shoulder. From here, you can:
let's just keep going up until the Girdle of the High Co?tilei (part seldom attended, and it will become crumbly). It is strongly recommended to have the hands and the hammer.
- 4 boosters from the 30's to the trail that connects the Valley of the Scoru?ilor the mountain pass of Marigolds. The first booster is recommended to be done right away below the mountain pass of the Shoulder (5 feet away) on a platform of 2m x 2m, as otherwise we run the risk of blocking the strings in the us. All of the rapelurile are made of expansion bolts with a mailon.
- 4 boosters for 30m the Crack of Marigolds in them to its list in a single braid with a rope.

It comes down then to the Valley, Marigold, or it is combined with the Flue of the Fire, up to the crossing into the Valley of the Co?tilei, and the place Co?tila.

Topo

Topo

Traseul Roşculeţ (Muchia Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor)
Traseul Roşculeţ (Muchia Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor)

Pictures


Sursă: Mihai Sava

Discover more about this route from those who have climbed it


Diaries & links



Sursă: Mihai Sava

Users who climbed the route


Bogdan Lazăr - 19.07.2021, Vara
- 19.07.2021
Stanciu Gabriel - 19.07.2021, Vara
- 19.07.2021
Andrei Badea - 15.09.2019, Vara
- 15.09.2019
Constantinescu Anita - 08.12.2018, Iarna
- 08.12.2018conditii perfecte ptr catarat iarna, 2 lungimi cu coltari si pioleti si inca 2 cu bocanci si maini goale
Jabon - 08.12.2018, Iarna
- 08.12.2018conditii perfecte ptr catarat iarna, 2 lungimi cu coltari si pioleti si inca 2 cu bocanci si maini goale
Jabon - 09.07.2017
- 09.07.2017
Vasile Dumitrică - 16.07.2016, Vara
- 16.07.2016
Lucian Apostu - 01.01.1900, Iarna

Users who wish to climb the route


Anta
Andrei Vlad
Razvan Hotea

Discover route videos made by those who have climbed it


Video - Cristian Marin - 14.03.2021

Video - Mozes Valentin-Matias - 16.02.2020

Video - Mihai Sava - 30.11.2019

Video - Mihai Sava - 08.12.2018

Video - Mihai Sava - 26.12.2017

Map



GPS: N 45° 25' 51.7" E 25° 30' 03.7"    
Access route: He goes up to the Refuge of the Co?tila the Valley of the Co?tilei, you have to cross the Valley, Marigold, who's a stay close to the mountain pass of Marigolds. 30 to 40 feet below the gap and then turn left on to the narrow strip Strungii, on the basis of the Shoulder of the Marigolds. It goes on a belt about 100 m until you reach a valley. It goes up to 10 km on it, and on the right side, you can see a flaw, is not very clear, fragmented by the many rapids of the pot. Here begins the trail. There is no anchor at the base, and not on the rift, I don't see it.
Retreat route: All of the trails over the mountain pass over the Shoulder. From here, you can:
let's just keep going up until the Girdle of the High Co?tilei (part seldom attended, and it will become crumbly). It is strongly recommended to have the hands and the hammer.
- 4 boosters from the 30's to the trail that connects the Valley of the Scoru?ilor the mountain pass of Marigolds. The first booster is recommended to be done right away below the mountain pass of the Shoulder (5 feet away) on a platform of 2m x 2m, as otherwise we run the risk of blocking the strings in the us. All of the rapelurile are made of expansion bolts with a mailon.
- 4 boosters for 30m the Crack of Marigolds in them to its list in a single braid with a rope.

It comes down then to the Valley, Marigold, or it is combined with the Flue of the Fire, up to the crossing into the Valley of the Co?tilei, and the place Co?tila.

Equipment


Quickdraws: Ten
Cams and nuts: Ten
Additional equipment: Ten
Sursă: Mihai Sava

Comments